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If you are having problems with synthetics you probably used nylon or polypropylene rope. These stretch more then polyester, especially nylon. Polyester should stretch as little as cotton and last longer in the sun.

I would go with bronze chain to avoid any corrosion problems in the future. Also make sure that whatever chain you get will fit with the pulleys. Often certain types of existing pulleys will not work effectively with chain.

I really would stick with the Samson rope if you had rope prior.

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According to Richard Spigelmyer, who has been restoring windows since the Eisenhower administration, there us no added benefit to using chain over rope except for very large windows. And one fact often missed is that the chain makes makes a lot more no use than rope.

You can figure out how the rope packs or just stacks by drawing 2d circles or spheres. You can use grouped or blocked spheres with a point inside each. You can arrange the spheres where you want the path to go, perhaps 6 going around each rope path going around a post.

When the curve path is done, you have at least 2 choices:

1.) Create a pipe and used texturing and bumpmapping create the look of rope, and map a repeating texture onto it.

2.) Use real geometry to make the make the major strands, at least.

There are several line-types to create the rope path. You might even use straight sections, an then fillet them when you are done. Perhaps also you can use the edge of a sphere with points grouped on it for kind of a gauge block.

Because there are often more than one way of doing things, you also might be able to create a surface with enough nodes on it to wrap around the object by node editing, and then extract isocurves from it. You would need to skew or offset the curves to make them angled like a wrapped rope.

Modeler3D, perhaps you can try a small experiment and work your way up, like:

1.) Open a copy of the your drawing of your fence.

2.) Set a point.

3.) Draw a sphere that has the same radius as your rope on the point.

4.) Group it.

5.) Make 3 copies of the point/sphere you made.

6.) Using the Gumball widget, move them somewhere along the surface where you want to create a rope.

7.) Make sure your Point snap is on.

8.) Using InterpCrv, draw a curve to connect the Points in the center of the curve (You can undo the last segment, if you need)

9.) Select the curve you just made.

10.) Make a pipe.

Wim Has a good place to start but a true rope has two or more separate pieces that twist together. If you do what he said you get the look but not a true rope. I will play with this a bit and see what I come up with.

In his unexpected adventure, Om Nom breaks out of his box and travels through lush forests, busy cities, junkyards and underground tunnels, all in pursuit of one goal, candy! With all new locations to explore, travel through an interactive map to discover new locations filled with candy collecting and rope cutting action. Complete tricky missions to earn medals, advance in the game and access special levels, you can even play with your friends to see who can get the highest score, or tackle the puzzles on your own.

As for the code, I do not know power BI at all (not even my job, but how it goes I guess). I got roped into this because the power BI dude couldn't figure it out either. How can we implement a code to force TLS when, as far as I can tell, power BI desktop is all GUI based. I don't see the code it runs. We open Power BI Desktop, select "get data" and paste in the URL to SharePoint, click Organizational Sign in and then get the error message of "The underlying connection was closed" error.

Or maybe it's re-rope sash, or restring windows, or re-weight with sash cord? No matter, sit back, buckle in, and get ready for a riveting blog post about restoring antique windows! I doesn't get much more exciting. (I'm lying, it can only get more exciting.)

Antique double hung windows are beautiful, there's no doubt about it. I didn't realize this for many years, but after buying our home and falling in love with old homes, the old sash are one of the four truly enchanting elements of architecture I feel set an older home apart from the pack (the other three are their staircases, period doors & door hardware, and moulding/millwork). When I'm drooling over a magazine house, a real estate listing that I can't afford, or a falling down house with "good bones" I just wish I could spend another decade saving, these are some of the primary aspects I immediately look for. And if any of these homes are lacking any or all of these details...they're dead to me.

While I'm an equal opportunity lover of old windows, the majority of my restoration efforts are geared toward the style of windows in our home -- rope and pulley double hung sash. This is primarily because they're the ones with which I'm most familiar and comfortable.

Our style of windows are actually very common in the era of our 1880s home, and in about 50 years in either direction. The style is fairly straight forward and contains two sash, an upper and lower, which are movable and counter balanced by large weights that live in cavities beyond the jambs of the window frame. When the sash are raised or lowered, the sash weights, attached to the sash by cording, travel up and down in the hollow channels, allowing the windows to stay open without any other props or stays. It's a very functional system that works quite well. However, one of the common plights of the rope and pulley double hung sash comes by way of frayed and broken ropes (or sash cord).

I actually have a bag of sash chain in our basement as I had planned on using it in the first window I needed to restore, but I ran into a snag. No, not a snag in the project, and aesthetics snag. I saw the chains installed in another home's windows.

I don't know why, but the chains just don't do it for me. When I saw them they looked wrong for our house, and when I opened the window and heard the metal on metal clank of the chain rolling over the pulley, that killed it for me. I thought to myself, "I know the original cord in our windows is, well, original, so why replace it with a different material? It had already lasted nearly 125 years."

First I found the standard braided laundry line you can buy at most big box home improvement stores. The cord is all white with a nylon/cotton core and is the right size for the sash cord. I thought I had found the perfect replacement, so I went ahead and bought 100' of it and replaced the rope in our bedroom windows.

I was feeling good about my accomplishment, but there was always this little voice in the back of my head saying "that rope wasn't perfect, it didn't look identical to the old stuff. The old stuff had little red dots in it."

I shut that little voice out of my head until one day, when I was looking around online, and came across SRS Hardware, a company dedicated to the historic preservation and recreation of true divided light windows and wood storms. They have a great collection of necessities for people restoring windows, including the elusive Sarco glazing. In their list of products they had EXACTLY what I was looking for...and I mean exact!

They carry a type of sash cord that is made by the same manufacturer of sash cord that was used on our original windows. Same small company, same design, same little red dot. It was a moment of pure, unadulterated excitement when I discovered this source.

It's important to remember that the correct function of the sash actually determines the length, and the length of the weight and where the rope attaches to the window plays a role. The rope needs to be long enough to allow the sash to be fully lowered without the weight or knot running into the pulley, and short enough to allow the windows to be fully raised without having the weight hit bottom. You also need to account for the necessary knots you'll need to tie at either ends. This is why I like to figure out length as I go, rather than trying to come up with a formula.

The next step in proper measurement is critical and will make or break your restring. With the weight back in the pocket, grab the upper sash and make pencil mark of where the top of the hole for the rope knot sits on the side of the sash.

Remove the sash from the window and place the sash back where you were storing it. Then grab the sash cord and pull down until the sash weight lifts up about one inch from the bottom of the weight cavity floor. Full tension from the weight should be on the rope and you should be able to move it freely.

With the weight one inch off the base, use your pencil to mark the rope with two small marks. The first mark is at the line you made on the jamb for the sash knot hole and the second is at the based of the pulley, right where the rope would begin to wrap around the pulley wheel.

The original rope installed in our windows was tacked in place by several nails through the sash's rope channel. While this was effective, I want to be able to easily remove the sash in the future when I restore them.

The first change is in how you run the sash cord. Since the pulley doesn't need to be installed for weather stripping, you can leave it out until after you've run the cord, making the whole process of getting your cord in place much simpler. This time, just put the cord through your sash pulley while it's out, then tape a drill bit to the end of the rope and feed it through the opening.

Like with the upper sash, it's time to tie on the weights. In our windows the weights for the upper sash are larger and heavier than the lower. It makes sense, since their job is to keep the sash up rather than to simply counter balance as it's raised. So it's important to take note to ensure you're installing the correct weight for the correct sash.

Once I had the sash weight good and secure, I started working on the length of the cord I'd need. Similar to the upper sash, the key here is to get the length of the rope right, but using an opposing approach. With the lower sash you need to be sure that the window can be fully raised without the weight impacting the bottom of the cavity, but it needs to be able to be closed without the knot or weight running into the pulley. ff782bc1db