Mrs Zhong

Hong Kong is the place where East meets West. The city offers a diverse culinary landscape of traditional and international food. Located on the southern coast of China, Hong Kong is a rich gastronomic paradise consisting of Middle Eastern, European, and Southeast Asian cuisines. This multicultural mix has created a startling local food culture. One of the most distinctive dishes in it is Siu Mai.

At first glance, Siu Mai is a small yellow dumpling. But actually, it is a morsel that embodies the cultural heritage and culinary expertise. It tells a story of tradition, craftsmanship, and the flavours of Hong Kong. 

Siu Mai is often found steaming in the dim sum carts in the small tea houses or markets, which are the essential symbol of Cantonese cuisine. Small and flavour-packed dumplings have conquered the hearts of people not only in Hong Kong, but across the globe. We will dive deep into the mystery world of Siu Mai and highlight people who spend hours daily to make such tasty dishes for hundreds of Hongkongers. 

As international students in Hong Kong, we have been exploring local cuisine for some time. At some point, it took us to Nam Shan, which is a market full of life and the aroma of traditional foods. Despite our international group’s limited knowledge of Cantonese, we were fortunate to have a local member, Mariel, who became our bridge to Granny Zhong. We prepared our question in English, after which Mariel adeptly translated it into Cantonese, which allowed us to connect more deeply with Granny Zhong’s story. Mariel conducted the interview, wrote the script, and translated it back into English for us to work on.

Granny Zhong (70) has been in the business of selling Siu Mai for more than 40 years and has a wealth of information about the industry. Working in a small market of Nam Shan Estate, she is famous among students of the nearby City University of Hong Kong, who usually spend their late evenings queueing to treat themselves with hot Siu Mai. Everyday at 10PM granny Zhong, known as Namshan Siu Mai Lady, opens her tray. 

Began selling Siu Mai to raise her son

Our Local Legend was born in Mainland China in 1953. Granny Zhong immigrated to Hong Kong in the beginning of 1980s. She started selling Siu Mai in order to raise her eldest son, who was born one year after she moved to the big city. Before making dishes, she was working in a factory that focused on producing atomic particles. Her husband, on the other hand, already rented a shop, but had no business to work on. So, he offered Ms. Zhong to make Siu Mai. From then on, they started to sell Sui Mai by cart. They chose Siu Mai, in particular because Ms. Zhong’s husband already knew the craft. Originally, the dishes were sold at the place opposite to Nam Shan Estate called Kwong Man Tsuen. However, as the place was closed for the demolition, Ms. Zhong reopened it in Nam Shan Estate Market itself. 

Put her son in the truck and pushed the truck to escape from the police

Ms. Zhong comes to Nam Shan Estate Market at six in the evening and sells it until two o’clock at night. “I choose to do the night market because I am old and can’t work long hour shifts, so it is just a casual stall”, – she says. Secondly, Ms. Zhong is afraid of the government regulations and doesn’t want to be driven. The lady noted that she had no business for months. Before opening the stall at the floor above, people would be driven away by the security staff. 

Once, when the police arrived, she put her son in the truck and pushed the truck to escape, but they still were caught and taken to the police station. At that time, the police asked Ms. Zhong to pay a deposit before she could leave. Granny told the police at that time that she just started working, so she didn't make any money. She has had only $100 and has been stuck at the police station ever since. At the end, the police accept $100 as a deposit. But Zhong’s was not willing to give it because she considered that she would need to rely on the money to buy vegetables and cook rice for her son after returning home. At the end, the police still let her go. A few days later, Zhong's received a ticket, was called by the court, and was fined. “At that time, I came out to sell Siu Mai and made $50 a day at most because no one knew me at the beginning.” She used to live in the opposite market, but 20 years ago she moved to Pak Tin Estate, when her second son was 11 years old. 

“I don't care how much I make”

Price for the one Siu Mai is 12HK$, which is relatively cheap, considering that Sham Shui Po is a poor district. “There will be no price increase, as it is intended to be a neighbourhood business. I don't care how much I make”, – says the lady. 

“Selling Siu Mai for 42 years, now replacing husband”

Ms. Zhong noted that now she makes Siu Mai alone, despite her husband having been helping her to make them for decades. She noted that Mr. Zhong is almost 80 now and can’t stand night shifts with her, like he did for 42 years.

“Have a little sustenance, don't think too much, and relax”

The motivation behind selling Siu Mai for Ms. Zhong is to “have a little sustenance, don't think too much, and relax”. Granny also noted that once she took her son with her to sell Siu Mai just one month after giving birth. She had to run away from the police with her child. Moreover, she also said that her kids were the motivation for her to keep working and sponsor them. 

Currently, Ms. Zhong sponsors Chinese orphans through World Vision. “It is not easy for me to make money, but I hope that one quarter of her bowl of rice can be given to others.” She has been supporting children for more than ten years, and one of them has grown up and achieved academic success. Now, she's raising another little girl. She sends over $200 a month to the orphanage. It used to be $240, now it's $270. She said she could help as much as she could.

“Endurance is the way to succeed”

Ms. Zhong is sure that the most important thing for entrepreneurship is “endurance”. As advice for CityU students, she noted that “for our own lives, take a step back and learn something. It can let us gain something, no loss.” Before she came to work, she was always bullied. But in order to live, learn, and make more experience, she silently endured it. She says people have to be willing to start low and not jump to the top at the beginning. 

Graduates of CityU brought their children to taste Siu Mai

During a deep talk, Ms. Zhong noted that she already knows her role in CityU students’ life. “Some graduates from the university brought their children to purchase Siu Mai”.

In the heart of the bustling streets of Hong Kong, there is a culinary treasure – Siu Mai. Simple, but enjoyable dish that is made out of the traditions and care by people like granny Zhong. As international students, we start to appreciate and acknowledge that Siu Mai is not only an everyday meal of the locals, but also the cultural symbol that we accept during our dive into the local culture. 

Year after year, these steamed dumplings become a comfort for the students, integrating into our everyday meals and, most importantly, our hearts. Siu Mai is the soul of Hong Kong – a fusion of resilience, tradition, and warmth. With every bite of this dish, we participate in the heritage that is passed from generation to generation. People like Ms. Zhong are the ones who save such treasure that we will try to pass as well. In every steaming basket of Siu Mai lies a story of perseverance and a lesson in endurance. 

Alim Dinassylov

Anna Popova

Deniz Kocak

Hena Mesic

Ho Mei Ni Mariel