Colour Mixing Chart Free ^HOT^ Download

Watercolor charts are all about mastering mixing. These simple charts help you learn how to mix your collection of paints and remember which ones you need to reproduce a particular hue.

A watercolor chart is a grid of colored squares using all or some of the paints in your palette. The grid is labeled on the top and side axis with the names of all your paints. Each square in the chart is at the intersection of a row and a column of the chart.

Colour Mixing Chart Free Download

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Mix your first two paints starting in the top left corner of the chart. The most logical way I have found to proceed, is to paint the fully saturated mixture first, then add some water and paint the lighter value on the opposite side of the diagonal.

I had thought it was like when doing the colour wheel with acrylics that you used white to lighten the shade but it sounds like you are literally watering it down (by adding water instead of white paint). Is that correct?

In this post, we are going to take a look at how to make a mixing chart from the colours you have in your watercolour palette. This is an amazing but also vital way to get to understand your colours and how they behave with each other as well as creating ain invaluable reference tool so you know how to mix any colour you want quickly.

This post is useful for beginners and experienced sketchers. Making charts such as these is something I have put off for a long time but as soon as I actually made the effort to make one I realised how invaluable the process of making the chart and the final product is for future sketching. By spending time making the chart you save time in the long run by taking some of the guesswork out of colour mixing.

Please do not skip making a watercolour chart (like I did) for years. Do it now. It is one of the most useful things you can do to take a leap forward in learning how your watercolour paints work.

The chart has a defined range of pigments along the horizontal axis and the same pigments along the vertical axis, where one pigment meets another on the grid is the resulting colour from mixing them together.

Where Indian Yellow is labelled on the top edge and Ultramarine is labelled on the left edge, the mixture will have more Indian Yellow than Ultramarine and the resulting colour is a more yellow-green.

Where Ultramarine is labelled on the top edge and Indian Yellow is labelled on the left edge and the colours meet again (on the top row of the image above) there is more Ultramarine in the mix, the resulting colour is more of a blue-green.

In this way, you get two different results from the colours mixing and a more effective reference tool. Check out the Youtube video and the section below on how to make the chart for more detailed step by step instructions.

There is no better way to understand colour theory than to practice it. Also, there is no better way to understand the paints in your palette and how they mix together than experimenting and keeping notes on which colours mix with which to produce certain results.

When you buy a new watercolour set or new pigments to put into your set I highly recommend you make a chart that you can refer to. You cannot tell the real colour from looking at the packaging or the tube. You can make swatches of the colours directly from the pan. By making swatches you can see how bright the colour is as well as how transparent or opaque it is.

The St Petersburg White Nights paints that come in plastic palettes that you can find on Amazon and other art supply companies are actually made for the pans. Here is the set of 12 colours on Amazon.

I wanted to make a grid with 2 x 2cm squares for my chart but realised my paper was not wide enough so I used 1.5 x 1.5cm squares instead which actually seems a great size. 14 colours multiplied by 1.5cm is 21cm, so this is how big my square needed to be.

Start in the top lefthand corner where your first two colours meet. On my chart, this is where Indian Yellow meets Indian Yellow, so in this square, you would paint pure Indian Yellow from the pan.

Staying in the same column where Indian Yellow is the label on the top axis and moving down one row where Indian Gold is labelled on the left axis, I need to paint a square that is Indian Yellow with just a bit of Indian Gold mixed in. This is because the colour on the top axis is the dominant colour in the mixture.

As I have Indian Yellow mixed with a bit of Indian Gold already on my palette, I now mix in some more Indian Gold, so that colour is the dominant colour in the mix and I paint the second square in the top row (to the right of the very first square we painted) with this mixture. This is because Indian Gold is the label on the top axis and this is the dominant colour in the mix now, with only a bit of Indian Yellow in the mix (which is labelled on the left axis).

I will show you my exact sketching process in ink and watercolour. I have travelled around the world in the last 3 years and this is my go-to system of creating beautiful yet quirky illustrations to capture the magic of my discoveries.

We will work through 3 projects, step by step (pictured below), all of which are real-life examples of things I have sketched along my travels. I provide the photo references you can work from.

We will start by choosing a composition, laying in the initial pencil sketch, adding ink lines, layering watercolour and adding the final touches.

This and much more are included in my course, Sketch Your Adventures, click the button under the image to find out more!

Try to use a consistent amount of water when you are mixing colours so that you do not adversely affect the vibrancy by using too much. This can be tricky at first but you will get used to it as you move through the chart.

I know you would rather spend time sketching but this is such a valuable use of time too. It helps to cement colour mixing theory in your head and can be used as a future reference tool that you can keep in your sketchbook or stick on the wall at home. Creating this chart now will actually save you time and increase the success of your sketches in future.

This post (plus your other post about earth-friendly watercolor pigments) has inspired me to get to know the acrylic paints that my mom handed down to me. She gave me so many primaries and convenience colors that sometimes it is just overwhelming. Thank you for the color mixing chart tutorial and for giving me a way to get more familiar with my paint collection.

I started this chart a while back so I could stop myself from buy more green pencils. Then it morphed into a study on how pencils from different brands blend with one another. Hence the terrible, scratchy hand writing ?

Callye, thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!

I have been waiting for this chart. Since I am not an expert on royal icing I know this chart will be very usefull. Thanks for sharing, I appreciate your hard work

Thanks so much for this color chart! Something that should be so simple was a real stumper while trying to get some new colors without breaking the bank buying all the shades! Thanks a bunch! Happy Easter!

Thank you so much for all of the work that went into this color chart! It has saved me time and probably a headache more than once, especially for the Tiffany blue, it turned out just perfect and my client was thrilled.

You are very observant and probably closer to being a good color mixer than you realize. Mixing two colors together usually causes at least one of the colors to darken, particularly if they are mixing complements like red and green. When you realize that this is normal, it becomes much less annoying.

I made this chart for my students. It shows many (but not all) of the colors that can be made from a simple palette of 10 pigments. The greens and the violet are actually mixtures of two pigments from the 10.

Pro tip: It's always best to begin by mixing lighter shades and gradually adding darker shades, as opposed to starting dark and getting lighter! Use larger quantities of lighter colours first.

Pro tip: You can always add more of one particular colour if you need it to be darker, lighter, with more red tones, or blue tones, etc. The possibilities are endless!

Available in pure yellow, pure red, pure magenta, pure green and pure blue, the True Colours possess pure colour pigments for the creation of truly brilliant blends. Developed in line with high scientific standards, the FIMO professional colour wheel not only shows at a glance the 175 different shades that can be created using FIMO professional True Colours but the respective mixing ratios too.

The FIMO professional colour mixing system is based on seven colours: The five True Colours and black and white. These make it possible to create a rainbow spectrum of a total of 168 harmonising shades. All of which are blended using the five True Colours and then gradated using either black or white. Each and every colour is defined by an exact mixing formula.

To achieve the desired shade, the two True Colours to be blended need to be rolled out to two uniformly thick sheets in the clay machine. Next, a shaped cutter is used to cut pieces out of the individual sheets in line with the mixing formula. These are then kneaded together until a uniform colour is achieved.

The FIMO professional colour mixing system is based on the LAB colour wheel. The basis for this colour model is provided by Ewald Hering's opponent colour theory which embraces all colours visible to the human eye.

Satin Ice fondant can be mixed to achieve a wide variety of colours. Below is a guide which shows what colours can be achieved by mixing different Satin Ice colours. Please note that colours below are a representative and may vary due to different monitor calibration.

Click here to view our full range of Satin Ice Fondant

Click here to download a pdf copy of Satin Ice Colour Mixing Chart Satin Ice Colour Mixing Guide Video 17dc91bb1f