C Sharp Tutorial Pdf Free Download

Welcome to the introduction to C# tutorials. These lessons start with interactive codethat you can run in your browser. You can learn the basics of C# from theC# 101 video series before starting these interactive lessons.

All the introductory tutorials following the Hello World lesson are available usingthe online browser experience or in your own local developmentenvironment. At the end of each tutorial, you decide if you want to continuewith the next lesson online or on your own machine. There are linksto help you set up your environment and continue with the next tutorialon your machine.

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In the Hello world tutorial, you'll create the most basicC# program. You'll explore the string type and how to work with text. You can also use the path on Microsoft Learn training or Jupyter on Binder.

In the Numbers in C# tutorial, you'll learnhow computers store numbers and how to perform calculations with differentnumeric types. You'll learn the basics of rounding, and how to performmathematical calculations using C#. This tutorial is also availableto run locally on your machine.

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Real World Functional Programming is a unique tutorial that explores thefunctional programming model through the F# and C# languages. The clearlypresented ideas and examples teach readers how functional programmingdiffers from other approaches. It explains how ideas look in F#-afunctional language-as well as how they can be successfully used to solveprogramming problems in C#.

C# is a simple, modern, general-purpose, object-oriented programming language developed by Microsoft within its .NET initiative led by Anders Hejlsberg. This tutorial will teach you basic C# programming and will also take you through various advanced concepts related to C# programming language.

Variables, functions, and classes are just the basics of starting with coding in Unity. Check out the Learn section, you can find a bunch of useful scripting tutorials that will help you go learn about programming from scratch, then progress to create detailed code for your projects.

In principle this sounds like a very quick and easy fix to a somewhat complex problem that plagues most landscape photographers. In practice, however, it comes with a couple of big issues. Not only can using an aperture this small decrease image quality due to diffraction, it doesn't actually deliver the maximum possible depth of field. That's where stacking comes in. In the digital age we can now improve upon this technique and produce higher quality, tack sharp images from the front to the very back of the frame.

The toughest thing about focus stacking in the field is dealing with changing conditions such as wind, rain and light. When wind is an issue I always run through at least two or three focus stacking progressions to ensure that I have a sharp frame at each focus point. Even in perfect conditions I still run through a focus point progression at least twice to ensure that I haven't missed a point. There's nothing worse then getting home after a long day of shooting only to find that you completely missed a focus point.

It would have been interesting to see on a 100% crop how f/22 compares regarding sharpness and diffraction. Stacking should be superior, I wonder by how much. On my setup (a6000, Sigma 19mm lens) I see significant diffraction around f16 onwards and only shoot f/5.6 (lens sweet spot, looks sharper then f/8 on my copy), sometimes f/11 for starbursts. I did not have the need to stack yet.

2. Use a dedicated stacking program like Zerene stacker, which does a superlative job in auto mode of aligning and stacking as well as providing an intuitive side-by-side retouching setup whereby one simply brushes the sharp bits from one of the unstacked originals onto the "missed" area of the stacked image. No need to hassle with Adobe's confusing layered masks.

This looks excellent, but "pricey"...;-) For WA lenses on MFT, "f8.5" gives great DOF without tilting, and the cheap Samyang/Rokinon 14mm f2.8 works well (with a good sample!!!) for this on a cheap shift adapter:

-ruether-photography.com/MFT-Lenses.htm#D

As for the tilting adapter with the Nikkor 28-70mm f3.5-4.5, that lens has no CA or sharpness issues with JPGs on MFT (with a good sample!), and the lens is well under $100-US used, in fine condition... (I prefer "cheap-and-good" to "expensive-and-good" when possible...!;-).

As for the 10mm Samyang, I was tempted to try it for shifting, but its limited coverage and somewhat high CA discouraged this for me.

Thanks for the information and URL - the photos there are also excellent!

--DR

BTW another UWA option with unlimited DOF is to shoot with a fisheye lens and then defish with software. DxO OpticsPro 10 does a good job of defishing Rokinon 7.5mm MFT RAW files by using manual distortion correction set to 84, although it's usually necessary to crop the outer edges which become soft and excessively distorted. The result is well corrected and sharp, and it's fairly cheap and very lightweight.

First,a great and well explained article, thanks for the tips. I must say though, that I believe diffraction is hugely overrated. Using well thought out sharpening techniques with apertures of f16..f18....f20, I get absolutely sharp, prints,of 20 x30 and more! Mirror lock up is far more important up to 125th sec. and I use it for every landscape image on a tripod. For this image I may do two exposures at f18 and brush in the background or forground and ot takes just a couple of minutes. Choosing and testing for the "best" aperature, each to their own.

b craw - this is the first time I've heard someone suggest that deep, sharp focus will be seen as an egregious visual clich in the future. Someone had better tell the Group f/64 that, except that many are now dead and gone...

Thanks for the tutorial, much appreciated.

Is there any specialized software to do this other than an editor like Photoshop?

I'm thinking along the lines of Microsoft's ICE stitching software, which I've found tremendously helpful and effective - besides being free.

I'm having trouble knowing exactly what to do in order to brush in the "sharp focus" from the sharp layer, into the blended layer. Could you elaborate a bit for we who are not quite up to speed on Layers. What are the exact steps--how to "mask in that region." Thank you!

When you load all of your image files as 'layers' photoshop I always arrange them from my closest focus point near the bottom of the image to the furthest back. When you've found your region that you want to work on you add a layer mask to your main image 'layer' and make sure that the image your working on is directly above the sharp image layer you wish to mask in. I then use a black 100% opacity 5-50% hardness soft gradient brush to mask in the regions that I'm working on. Does that make sense?

If you produce a 100% front to back sharp image, you can still direct the viewer into and through your work with light and shadow, colour, harmony, composition, movement...etc...(if you don't know this list you need to go back photography 101)

Yup. The foreground cacti are far too bright in relation to the sun. I realize the photographer wanted to "highlight" this area of the image since the sharp needles look cool, but it's about 50% overdone imo.

I admire how much work and patience put into something like this. But, in the end I find it`s just a long, long description on how to something in a horribly time consuming, error-prone way, that could be done perfectly and accurately without any software-guess work, by using a technical view camera. Proper focusing and 0.5-5 of downward tilt, depending on focal length and tripod height let you create the right wedge of sharpness at f8 that includes everything visible in that image. Imho, for best results in the field, I find it`s often better to keep things simple, rather than finding ways to make things even more complicated than they already are.

Yeah that post-focus or 4K approach kinda defeats the purpose, why stack for optimum sharpness/res and or large printing if you're gonna start with 8MP frames? If you wanna do it right with Panasonic find the user created app on the Play store that adds actual focus bracketing via Wi-Fi. I think I read the GX85 had focus bracketing tho, dunno if it uses the full sensor (unlike GX80).

Just curious but how close was the nearest cactus that you needed the DOF to start from?

Also when you captioned the image with: 'This was shot at 35mm and at f/2.8 due to conditions at the time of shooting. As you can see it was impossible to achieve sharp focus throughout the image.'

Why could you not stop the lens down? I assumed you may have needed a faster shutter speed as priority due to a lot of wind, but I can't see the effects of wind in this shot.

I don't get it. Why would you want to have everything tack sharp and in focus? Nothing stands out in the frame when everything is sharp. There should be something in the frame that naturally draws the eye there.

Exactly, I find tack sharp from foreground to far distance garish and flattened. Look at the work of the great landscape painters and you'll see the distance is softer. This aids composition as the eye is grounded and creates a sense of depth in the frame. But I get it that others have different aesthetic preferences. 2351a5e196