Introduction
Sport climbing officially became an Olympic sport at the Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympics, marking a significant milestone in its development. The debut featured a unique competition format called the Sport Climbing Combined, which brought together three distinct disciplines: speed climbing, bouldering, and lead climbing. This format was designed to test the all-around capabilities of climbers and introduce the sport to a global audience in an exciting and engaging way.
Disciplines in the Combined Format
Speed Climbing
In this event, climbers race against each other to scale a standardized 15-meter wall as quickly as possible. The holds and route remain the same in every competition, allowing climbers to memorize and perfect their moves. Speed climbing focuses purely on explosive power, reflexes, and timing.
Bouldering
Bouldering challenges climbers to solve a series of short, powerful problems on a wall roughly 4 to 5 meters high. Climbers do not use ropes but are protected by mats below. Each problem tests a mix of strength, technique, creativity, and mental focus. Climbers must complete as many problems as possible within a limited time.
Lead Climbing
In lead climbing, climbers attempt to reach the highest point on a wall over 15 meters tall within a given time, typically six minutes. They clip the rope into protection points as they ascend. This discipline demands endurance, route-reading skills, and careful pacing.
Scoring System
At Tokyo 2020, the Combined format used a ranking-based scoring system. After competing in all three disciplines, each climber received a rank in each event. These three ranks were then multiplied together, and the climber with the lowest total score won.
For example, a climber who ranked 1st in speed, 3rd in bouldering, and 2nd in lead would have a score of 1 × 3 × 2 = 6. This system encouraged consistency across all disciplines, meaning that excelling in just one event was not enough to secure a medal.
Reactions and Criticisms
While the Combined format was necessary due to the International Olympic Committee's limitation on the number of medal events, it faced criticism from the climbing community. Most professional climbers specialize in either speed climbing or the combination of bouldering and lead. The format placed speed-focused athletes at a disadvantage in technical events and vice versa.
Many argued that combining such different disciplines into one event didn’t reflect the structure of professional sport climbing as practiced worldwide. The need to train across three highly distinct disciplines was seen as both physically demanding and not representative of most climbers’ specializations.
Changes for Paris 2024
Responding to feedback, the format for Paris 2024 was revised:
Speed climbing will be a standalone event with its own set of medals.
Bouldering and lead climbing will be combined into a single event, reflecting the more natural overlap between those two disciplines.
This change allows for more focused training and fairer competition and better reflects how international climbing competitions are typically organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC).
Impact on the Sport
The inclusion of sport climbing in the Olympics has significantly increased global interest in the sport. It has led to the development of new climbing gyms, youth programs, and broader media coverage. Athletes have gained new sponsorship opportunities, and the sport has reached new audiences.
Even though the Combined format was temporary, it played an essential role in showcasing the versatility, athleticism, and mental strength required in climbing.
Conclusion
The Sport Climbing Combined event at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics was a pioneering step for the sport. Despite its challenges, it provided a platform for elite climbers to demonstrate their skills to a global audience and helped establish climbing as a serious Olympic sport. The evolution of the format for future Games, beginning with Paris 2024, shows a promising path forward—one that respects the uniqueness of each discipline while continuing to grow the sport’s appeal and accessibility worldwide.