One of the "features" of the trip was a sail from Aswan to Luxor, via felucca. The sailboat was outfitted with a foam mattress and canvas side panels for the night, and off we went, heading straight into a north wind blowing down the Nile as we went north.
This was not a recipe for a fast ride, and over the whole day we covered about 20 miles, tacking back and forth across the Nile, before giving up and tying up short of our goal, Kom Ombo. Inside the canvas "tent" of the boat it was cold, but I agree with the organizers, it WAS unforgettable.
Debating whether or not to continue sailing into the wind, or tie up at the bank, the boat captain talked with his peers. We tied up early, ate inside, and froze.
A bus picked us up in the morning and we went to Kom Ombo, Hellenistic temple to the Crocodile God, Sobek. Amazing color on walls and ceilings.
On to Edfu, dedicated to Horus, beautiful, crowded. The birth room was guarded by Bes, a dwarf and a god of fertility.
Again and again, traveling, you could see bright fertile fields slam up against desert.