Weather update, we have decided that typical Irish weather is intermittent downpours and howling gales.  The whole day was just that, windy with intermittent downpours.  Fortunately it did dry up for the last leg to Malin Head but the wind didn’t, in fact it got worse, and the whole day was colder than previous days.

First shoutout tonight must go to our Travel Agent, Karen.  The accommodation has been varied but has covered all our needs for a cycling tour and been appropriately priced.  Thanks Karen, the team appreciate the effort you have put into our ride.

The day started with the worst road we had been on throughout the trip.  It was narrow, steep and very busy.  We turned on to the N13 and settled in for the first climb.  About 2k in it was disaster, Ian threw a chain and in the process it got twisted.  New chain required.   Ian had thoughtfully brought along a new chain so all we had to do was call the TD to come and rescue us.  While the TD was making his way to us Ian negotiated the use of a nearby barn.  The fact that there was a bull in it didn’t deter us as it was raining. 

The chain arrived and the replacement process was underway.

About this time we had a visit from a gentleman who wanted to know what we were up to, we think he was the father of the tractor driver who had given us permission to use the barn.  We got a lesson in the fallout from the troubles that had beset the country in the 20th century.  His parents and brother had died and he had been alongside a 17 year  old boy when he was killed in during a march in Londonderry.  His memories of the time are triggered whenever he talks to English people.  Very upsetting for all concerned.  He though ended up inviting us to a cup of tea at his place just down the road.  We had to decline as the chain issue was impacting our schedule.

 The chain was soon replaced and we pressed on.  The destination was Rathmullen where we were to catch a ferry to Buncrana.  The ferries are not frequent, the timing of the daily stop depended very much on when we get to the ferry.  It turned out we had a starter before the ferry and a wrap-up desert after!  The ferry ride is some 40 minutes and we were lucky as it poured down on the way over.  It also got quite rough, interesting ferry ride. 

As we pressed on towards Malin Head, the westerly got worse.  We mostly travelled north and east but the last stretch included a couple of west facing roads.  The wind was very strong almost bringing us to a standstill at time.   The last couple of hundred yards was steep and into the wind but we made it.

The TD had arrived prior and we decided that the ride should end there.  We could see a downpour approaching, the car was loaded up very promptly and we headed off to our accommodation for the evening and a celebratory Guinness at the local hotel. 

Weather update, the reality of Irish weather hit us today, it was sort of raining when we set out, dried up for an hour or so, then poured down leaving us like drown rats.  Cleared up in the afternoon, arrived dry at the accommodation and then poured down again.  Mind you the forecast was pretty bad so we should have expected it.  The whole day was significantly colder than previous.

You will find details on todays ride further down the blog, today we focused in getting to know our trusty Tour Director, Macca.  Macca has known Ian Binks from time immemorial, and has undertaken 2 tours of duty with the Binks riders, BLEJoG and this BMizMal trip, some might say this is beyond the call of duty but all parties enjoy the tours.   

So what do we know about Macca, well his favourite artist is Prince, is pretty keen on Rory Gallagher as a guitarist, favourite song is Maggie May (what a cracker that one is) likes Alfa Romeo Spider’s (seems pretty keen on the Range Rover as well), enjoys curry, red wine  and the Blankey Blank TV show (not sure on that one).  He is fortunate enough to be married to his favourite lady, Julie.  We thank Julie for loaning us her partner for these tours. 

We think that Macca is ideal for these trips, he looks after us and he has an innate ability to make friends and influence people.  New friends on this trip include Katherine, Veronica, Carol, Joanna, the date lady, Fabienne, Patricia, Jenny, Ann, and more, all of whom have been very helpful.  He clearly has a knack.   He also loves a clean car as you will see from the photos.

Thanks Macca, long may it continue.   

Ride update.  There was a lot of debate at the start of the day, will the rain stop or not?  All four of us finally got going in light drizzle, we climbed very steep couple of hundred metres from the accommodation and the rain stopped.  We had a few spots of rain as we worked our way around the Dartry Mountains on our way to Ballyshannon.  Our flat tyre record had clearly been jinx’ed after bragging about it and we had another. 

It was fixed and we carried on, approaching the coast near Tallaghan we got caught in a downpour, a real one, the roads turned into rivers and we got soaked.  The TD had sorted out a café in Ballyshannon and we stopped to warm up and get some food.  The previous weekend had seen somewhere between 10 and 20 thousand Rory Gallagher fans descend on the town to celebrate his music.  What a sight and sound that would have been.

Matteo, the proprietor of Trennari, the café we dried out in supplied pizza, pasta and excellent Chocolate Gateau to replenish us before we headed off for the last leg to Ballybofey.

The last 15k into Ballybofey was along a national route.  We would normally avoid major roads but on this we had an excellent surface, a strong tail wind and a mostly downhill  gradiant.  Our lead out man went on a time trial to the accommodation and opened a 10 minute gap on the rest of us over 12k.  He had a PR 10k and 5mile to his name.  Lets hope the effort doesn’t detract from leading us out in the morning. 

Weather update, almost the inverse of yesterday, a dry cloudy morning followed by an afternoon of rain showers.  It did improve before we got to the accommodation enabling us to get there dry.  The whole daythough was significantly colder.

We started out as a threesome, the remaining rider to join us later in the day. The first point call was a bike shop to replenish the stock of inner tubes, one rider got a tad lost in town riding around for while before finding the others in the second bike shop they had visited.  The first was a traditional bike shop, pilled high with bikes and spares, the other would fit very nicely into a high end category.

The first 10k or so were on a national route, there was a very wide shoulder, and the surface was magnificent, the only downer was the amount of traffic, both trucks and cars.  Komoot soon had us turning off into a side road and we settled into a morning cruising down country lanes and being surprised by the occasional car.

We had planned a one stop ride today, however the area we were riding in is very sparsely populated so we had to make a 10k or so diversion to Tubbercurry.  This is probably the first town we had visited where tourists don’t reign supreme, it had a well used look about it and shock horror only 2 cafes. We ended up at Jenny’s Café where 4 of us had the most magnificent baked potatoes  with various toppings.  It was followed off with a lovely raspberry sponge cake.  We think that Jenny was a little shocked when we cleared her out of cake. 

Over lunch the conversation turned to ride statistics as often happens with a group of riders.  The conversation though did reveal one noteworthy achievement, one of the brothers had clocked up 100,000 kilometres on Strava, just 2 days prior.

Leaving Tubbercurry with 4 riders we rode towards the Ox Mountain range, once we were at the base of the range we turned north east towards Sligo.  The next 15 to 20 k’s were a real joy to ride, strong tail wind, and wonderful scenery.  The mountains did though have one last laugh, as we rounded the end of the range the rain we had seen brewing over the range caught us.  It was a veritable downpour, massive puddles appeared from almost nowhere.  We took refuge under a tree for a while to allow the rain to pass. 

Back on the road we went through Sligo out to our accommodation for the night in student accommodation.  It more than met our needs.        

Weather update, while I could say it was a rinse and repeat again that would understate the reality.  It poured down most of the night and was raining when 3 riders set off.  It was just wet roads, rain, low cloud, chilly, in short it was miserable.  Once over the Sheeffly Pass though it changed.  Blue skies sunshine and a following wind.  Perfect. 

In the morning all we saw was wet roads and more wet roads.  Occasionally we spotted mountains and lakes but mostly it was mist and rain.  We descended to the Killarny Fjord for a break and to meet the TD, and to allow the 4th rider to join us. The way there passed by Quiet Man country, the bridge and cottage where the John Wayne movie from the 50’s had been filmed.  

The ride around the Killary Fjord and up the Sheeffly Pass was as good as any of the ride so far, stunning, especially when blue sky broke through.  When we reached the top of the pass we spotted a rider coming the other way, he looked very impressive on the climb so we wait to cheer him past us.  He stopped about 15 metres below us, our re-enactment of a Tour Du France climb was thwarted.  A couple of us rode down for a chat and within a few seconds had discovered he was South African.  We asked him to greet Ryder and Mark in Afrikaans, the look on Ryders face when greeted was worth seeing.  Needless to say we then had a lengthy chat.  Hein offered to take us on a slightly hillier route into Castlebar, it was considered but discretion won and we stuck to our original route.

The route took us through Westport, lively place on a public holiday.   After our first puncture of the ride we made it to Castlebar and our accommodation around 4:30. It only took a few minutes before the room reminded us of apres ski, drying clothes!  Calculations over dinner revealed that the Binks riders had travelled some 8,000 k to get the puncture (that includes the previous BLEJoG).  Fingers crossed that we travel a similar distance before the next.  We may have just jinx'ed it!!

Although the day had started with some serious doubts about what we were doing it had ended up being yet another great day.     

Weather update, well it was really a rinse and repeat from yesterday.  Slight variation in the morning when we got soaked just for about a K or so.  Stopping to adjust clothing by the time we restarted the rain had stopped.

The ride today was anything but a rinse and repeat. One brother decided that even after the copious application of Arnica his bruised posterior was such that riding was abandoned for the day.  There is no photographic evidence (that we have seen anyway) that supports this and definitely no witnesses to the fact, however, given the way he is walking and sitting down there is no reason to doubt the assertion.

So when the three riders set off for Oughterard the others headed back to the Cliffs of Moher to get photographic evidence of the cliffs given the disappointment of yesterday.  Photos were duly acquired, we also decided that the cliffs were one of the most visited sights in Ireland as there were over 30 buses in the bus park and the carpark was half full.  When leaving the carpark was filled up. 

The riders headed off, the route started in countryside very reminiscent of north Shropshire, cows, tiny lanes and smelly fields.  Arriving in Galway we discovered what seemed to be the second most popular spot in Ireland, the Galway seafront.  It was heaving and very much like Blackpool.  The road then took us westwards towards Spiddal or An Spideal in Irish.  It was the busiest road we had been on and we road into a howling gale.  Not the most pleasant 40k that we have ridden.

Turning right at Derroe took us north east towards Maam Cross, Oughterard and the accommodation for the night in Killarone.  The road was remarkable for a couple of reasons.  First we had a howling gale behind us, even climbing can be a pleasure in those circumstances.  Secondly the road took us up the Wind Path, many wind turbines, much visible wind damage and scenery that would have you believe that you were high up on moors somewhere.  The reality is that we only ever got 200m above sea level. The ride down to the largest inland body of water in Ireland was memorable.  There was some debate about whether or not this area is part on the Connemara, google indicates it is, locals not so sure.

That night we met a friend of Mark’s who had moved from South Africa to Ireland working in fish farming.  A convivial evening was had, ending up in a pub where traditional Irish music was being played.  

Images from a revisit to the Cliffs of Moher follow.

Weather update first.  The day started in rain jackets and a sprinkle of rain when we were on the ferry.   We then had a couple of jackets off and jackets on moments during the rest of the morning.  Visiting the Cliffs of Moher was the low point weather wise, we were stuck in the clouds, it was raining and we could not see the cliffs at all.  Soon after though when going through the Burren it was jackets off, the sun came out and we arrived at Red Robin’s Nest dry.  Another good day for us.

We were a little late setting out from the Lanterns even after they had arranged an early breakfast for us.  We had a choice to make as we had two options, one via the Cliffs of Moher was 30k more than the more direct route but it was something we wished to see so that route was chosen. 

The ride started with a ferry ride from Tarbert to Killimer before heading off to Miltown Malbay for a late morning tea or lunch depending on the time we arrived.  The ferry saved a journey of more the 100k around the estuary. 

Rain jackets on and then off and the backroad route generated by Komoot meant our average speed was on the low side.  The country we rode though was dairy country, lots of cows and associated smelly fields.  But we saw very few cars.

The café in Miltown exceeded expectations on the food front so we decided to have lunch there.  Black pudding sausage roles were brilliant.  They also did a pastry called Paris Brest, it looked so good we had to share a couple.  See pictures as a description would not do it justice. 

Lunch made us a little late arriving at the Cliff of Moher.  The TD had arrived before us, he did warn us that the weather was not good, finding him in the cloud/fog/rain was not simple but we did.  It was a shame but we did get some photo’s of clouds to show that we had been there. 

The cliffs were about halfway to Kilcolgan where we were staying.  There was a diversion through the Burren National Park stopping at the visitor centre on the way through.  The park was the highlight of the day, rock as far as you could see and the giant beehive shaped hills. 

The accommodation at Kilcolgan was a 3 bedroom hut, something a little different.  Off to the pub for dinner and watch Arsenal lose.  Oh well there is always next year.   

Weather update...  we started in Ballydavid, very windy, quite overcast.  Over the Conor Pass we made it up into the cloud base.  Once over it cleared up and we had another day of sunshine and no rain whatsoever.  Who says it always rains in Ireland?  The forecast for tomorrow is not so good.

The accommodation in Ballydavid, whilst fairly basic was everything we needed.  After a self made breakfast we headed over to Dingle for a coffee prior to heading up the Conor Pass (the highest pass on the Wild Atlantic Way), some 6.6k long and just over 400 metres of climbing averaging around a 7% gradient.  Coffee and a breaky top up of scones, carrot cake and croissant were excellent.  Before heading up the pass a water top up was required.  At this time we discovered that Mark had inadvertently incorporated additional protein in his water bottle in the shape of a fish!!  Whilst we do not have photographic evidence the whole team witnessed the intruder. 

The climb up the Conor Pass is unrelenting but the scenery made it more than worthwhile.  Our leadout man really enjoyed it leaving the rest of us in his wake.  At the top we were accosted by some tourists who were fascinated by the fact we had ridden up, and that we were in shorts (it was cold at the top).  The view from the top was magnificent even with the low cloud cover and the ride down a real joy.  It was not so smooth for the TD who had to give way to a van coming up, making him back up the road.   Where the road traverses some cliff faces it gets very narrow.     

We then settled into a fast ride up the Dingle Peninsula, the target was Tralee for more food.   It was mostly flat and we had a tail wind to encourage us.  

The Tralee lunch spot was basically vegan, Ryder nearly had kittens when he realised no meat dishes.  The cafe were very hospitable though and managed to rustle up some ham to go with their extraordinary range of cheese.  Once again the TD had excelled himself. 

Back on the road we had about another 60k of basically flat road to get us to Tarbert and our accommodation for the night.  On the way Ian and Ryder made some new friends and Ian had a barking contest with a dog who didn't appreciate us standing on its roadside verge.  The accommodation was an old roadside motel/function hall that had seen better days.  The hosts were very welcoming though and the place itself met our needs.

Weather update first, it would best be described as a cloudy day with occasional rain.  The rain was enough to encourage the wearing of rain jackets but not enough to wet the roads.  That was down to the wind, very strong from the south/south east.

The accommodation in Killarney was fine, but nobody slept well as there was overnight road works on the nearby main road,  

The plan was to head to Milltown for a coffee, then on to Dingle for lunch.  we had a slight mishap as the route avoided Milltown so we had to make a 3k diversion for a coffee.  We need not have bothered as there were a number of coffee vans on the road out to Dingle.  This was the most boring section of the ride so far, a 24k straight road into a strong headwind.  It was heads down and work through it.

Inch Beach, halfway to Dingle is definitely not named appropriately, it is huge.   There was a fast run down a bike track of all things as we approached Dingle.  Enjoying the descent we came across a man mowing the verge, he had his headphones on and thought he was the only person around as he turned across the bike path in front of Ian.  Fortunately they missed each other but the look of shock was something to behold.  

The Cafe in Dingle was the Gable Hotel.  It had only just opened, 6 weeks we were told.  The deco, coffee and food were excellent.  The Lemon Gin cake in particular get a mention as we used that as the excuse to delay leaving for a few minutes to let rain pass by.  There was a tricky decision to be made as a direct route to the hotel was significantly shorter than the planned route around Slea Head.  In the end  we remained resolute and took the coast road.  The coast road was very picturesque but would have been spectacular in sunshine.  

Rounding the head we found ourselves with a very strong tailwind that made the run home to the accommodation a real pleasure.  The accommodation itself was in the finest Walsh tradition, all five in one room, a shared kitchen and pub just across the yard.  A good feed in the pub washed down with a couple more Guinness's left us replete and looking forward to the next days ride....  

Finally, after 3 full days in Ireland we spotted clouds.  No rain but we did get some welcome shade from time to time.   Sun block was the order of the day.

The Castletownbere accommodation was excellent, and the host brilliant.  The TD had made a connection, we got the bikes locked up in the garage, a load of washing done and breakfast in the morning.  The team decided that the first stop should be at Allihies.  On the way we went through Ballydonegan, a place we had camped in many years ago with our parents.   The scenery surpassed the first day, the coast line seemingly going one for ever. 

At Allihies the TD more than proved himself as indispensable.  The cafe we were aiming for was closed.  Finding the cafe closed the TD befriended a local lady who knocked on the door of Veronica O'Sullivan and persuaded her to supply coffee and toast.  Turns out that Veronica was an O'Sullivan both before and after marriage, and she had moved in 53 years ago, just about when we were camping on the field below.  She did warn us about several steep climbs on our way to Kenmore for lunch.   She also warned us that in a couple of days Skibbereen would be full of O'Sullivans, they were aiming for a world record gathering, need to get more than 3,000 and they believe they will with people coming from all over the globe.

Our next stop was at Eyeries for more coffee and cake.  A very french looking cafe, the umbrellas can only be described as unique.  Joanna looked after us but was unable to supply date scones, only raisin ones.  They were so good the desire for dates was forgotten.  

The route out of Lauragh took us up one of the climbs we had been warned about.   It was best described as steep, very steep.  Our leadout man declared it as being the toughest climb he had been up.  We had one more to go....  

Whilst we were riding the roads of Ireland the TD was researching some local history.  Veronica had mentioned mining, more detail required says Ian.  It was copper mines that have now gone but he found some remaining ore. 

The last leg was from Kenmore over the hill to Killarney.  We walked for probably 4k as the path was too rough and steep, both up and down, to be able to ride safely.  We made it over, albeit a tad late by the time we got to the accommodation.  A take away supper was the order of the day.   

The day started early, no breaky in the accommodation so we left on the lookout for food.  AK Garage in Skibbereen set us up for the day.

It was nearly an hours' drive to Mizen Head.  By the time we had unpacked and taken copious photo's we were ready to set out just after 10.  The first part of the day got the votes for best scenery and best roads.  One car in 25k was recorded by the stat hounds.  The surface was pretty good too.  

Lunch was in Bantry,  The Organic Deli supplying local food great coffee.  Only downer here was sitting on the pavement, too hot to sit inside but the cafe is on a steep main road out of town.  The mix of vehicles and their associated noises varied from huge tractors making huge noises, and similar trucks to silent EV nipping past.

The most unusual fact is that after three days in Ireland we have yet to see a cloud!!  Sunburnt today, the same predicted for tomorrow!!

Last leg of the journey to Mizen Head, Wexford through to Leap.  The day started with a stroll through Wexford searching for breakfast.  Initially we thought that Wexford was a little dismal, however we were proven wrong, the Opera house, hidden behind what looked like a row of house was very impressive.  After finding an establishment for breakfast we found a thriving network of coffee shops. We left Wexford feeling very positive about it.  Both Ian's were especially taken with the care provided to husbands in the town.  

We then travelled down towards Cork. The TD made an excellent decision to stop in Midletown to visit the Jameson Distillery.  The most whiskey we had seen in one place, and the most tourists we had seen so far.

Visiting Schull we looked, unsuccessfully, for the spot Mum had shown us how to dive into the sea from the rocks.  Photographic evidence of the dive supplied.  

We were welcomed in Ballyroe by Fabienne at a 5 bedroom establishment, luxury before heading off the main business of the holiday, the ride from Mizen Head to Malin Head.   Dinner that night was in Glendore, the views from Hayes Bar were second to none,  the fish pie likewise.