The process is simple, just 4 steps - and takes about 10 to 15 minutes. Get started with some initial information, read through the pre-donation materials, answer your health history questions and print, download or email your RapidPass to yourself, and bring it with you.

The Red Cross works to ensure that the blood and platelet donation process is as safe as possible for donors and patients in need. We need to start by confirming some information. RapidPass may only be completed on the day of your donation. Please acknowledge that you are donating today:

Google Drive Fast Download

Download 🔥 https://byltly.com/2yGc6w 🔥

Please take a few minutes to review the following materials. Once you've reviewed them, check the boxes to confirm your understanding. If you have any questions, our staff are happy to help when you arrive for your donation or you can call 1-800-RED CROSS.

To ensure the safety of blood donation for both donors and recipients, all volunteer blood donors must be evaluated to determine their eligiblity to give blood. The final determination will be made on the day of your donation at the blood drive or blood donation center.

If you choose to print your pass, a laser printer is recommended. If you plan to pull up the pass on your mobile device, please ensure you have received and can open it on that device before coming to the drive.

Kayaks are aerodynamic

compared to canoes. With yaks atop I can drive above teh legal speed quite easily and confidantly. With canoes, teh air drag is such that I do not want to drive fast!

Jim

tucked in right behind you at 80

Nascar!

i read a story about a girl who had a surfboard come off her roof rack and smash through the windshield of another car, killing the driver. he was a doctor. she was getting sued.

Driver, secure your load

I make sure my rack is tight, first, then the boat straps. If I am going to do extended periods of time on the freeway, I dfintely put on a bow tie (not bow tie, bow tie! On the kayak, silly, not on me! sheesh), and sometimes a stearn tie. The shorter the bar spread, the more likely the end ties go on.

Then, I drive the same as I normally drive. 

Check the load at every stop along the way. Things can get loose sometimes.

honda civic

with two tempest 165s on top, 70 to 80 no problem, I use J saddles with straps resonable snug but not overly tight as my cross bars are under the bulkheads and front and rear tie downs snug but not tight.

The only problem is I have thule square bars and they are noisy above about 60 ( no problem just take the hearing aids out ha ha) when the kayaks are on the factory Subaru cross bars they are quieter.

I will have to exsperment with the square bars as the civic still gets 38 mph with the kayaks on it, so we us it more.

Dennis

For that reason, it is very important to lessen the amount of steering input as early in the corner as possible before you start going to throttle, which will give the tire a bit more grip to work with for acceleration out of the corner.

In short, it means that you want to get the car to rotate more in the earlier phases of cornering so at apex (before going to throttle), the car is pointed better down the following straightaway, allowing the driver to decrease steering input, which results in more grip for acceleration.

A commonly used technique drivers use to induce the car into getting entry rotation is trail-braking: decreasing, or trailing off, brake pressure as the car approaches the apex of the corner. This technique allows the weight to remain transferred toward the front of the car at corner entry, which helps add grip to the front and has the added benefit of shifting weight off the rear. This transfer of weight to the front of the car should allow the rear to lose enough grip to have some rotation into the corner, thus allowing the driver to open the wheel much more at exit for better grip and acceleration.

There are a couple of downsides to higher rear tire pressure. Due to reduced grip, higher pressures can have a negative effect on braking. In addition, too much pressure can result in making the tire too stiff and unpredictable (snap loose), so make small increases in pressure until you find that sweet spot that works well for your car.

Another simple, yet effective change that can be done to both street cars and track cars alike is increasing negative camber on the front wheels. Most cars run very little negative camber straight from the factory. Once in a corner, the forces on the car are great enough to flex the suspension and substantially decrease the amount of camber on the wheel. Those bespoke Pirelli slicks we run put so much force on the stock C30 suspension that we would end up with positive camber on some corners even though we started with more than 3 degrees of negative camber.

On stock front-wheel drive cars without camber plates, a couple of degrees of negative camber is the most you can hope to get within the stock shock mount. Adding camber plates with a modified top mount should allow you to get a minimum of 3 degrees of negative camber, which is the starting range used on our production-based C30 race cars. Running camber in that range will allow the tire to lay completely flat in the corner, giving it the biggest contact patch and the maximum amount of grip.

Caster seems to be the red-headed stepchild of suspension adjustments. Most conversations about front-wheel drive suspension engineering revolve around camber and shock adjustments, with little to no mention of caster. The reason caster is a highly effective adjustment on front-wheel drive race cars is that as caster is increased, camber will also increase exponentially with steering angle. Basically, the more you turn the steering wheel, the more camber, and potentially more grip, you get.

The goal with stiffening the rear bar is to transfer weight to the outside as the car enters a corner. The problem with this weight transfer is that it takes weight off the inside tires, which is exactly what we are looking for in the rear but exactly the opposite of what we need in the front. The goal with the big rear bar is to transfer the energy from the loaded outside rear tire to the unloaded inside front, attempting to keep it planted and hopefully giving it more grip both laterally and for forward acceleration.

There are two main types of diffs used in front-wheel drive applications: gear and plate. Gear diffs are far smoother in operation than plate diffs and are substantially lower-maintenance, making them ideal for daily-driver street cars that see some track day use. Gear diffs, however, have one shortcoming: If the inside wheel completely loses contact with the track surface, a gear diff will behave similarly to an open diff and send more power to the unloaded wheel. This is great for smoky burnouts but not so great for getting around a track quickly. This makes plate diffs the clear winner when used for a full-time, dedicated front-wheel drive track car.

The last alignment trick used to get a front-wheel drive car to play nice is rear toe. Rear toe is one of the most powerful alignment tools used to loosen up stubborn front-wheel drive race cars. As little as 1/16-inch toe out in the rear can get the rear end of your car looking to pass the front at every opportunity. With enough rear toe, front-wheel drive race cars will get extremely loose, which will bring a smile to the face of any experienced front-wheel drive pilot.

People always talk about caster and how it adds camber as you turn... This is true however it also jacks the chassis in a bad way by moving the outside tire upwards and the inside tire downwards which results in more body roll.

Dick Shine used to say that caster was evil and to never increase it. I forget where I ran upon the discussion... but there is some kind of analysis that was done at some point to see why he might have thought this... And it had to do with the tire's "trail" and where it fell in relation to the contact patch causing a disconnect in steering feel as grip is exceeded. In a nutshell, you could more easily sense the limits of the car with less caster, so while more caster might in theory give you more grip, the point at which traction is exceeded is different than where you feel feedback in the wheel or some such. I wish I could find the discussion again.

Either way, the effect is only noticable at high steering lock. When you are driving on course you are rarely over 10 degrees of steering angle and usually under 5. Changing camber with caster adjustments is like shuffling the deck chairs on the Titanic, technically you are making a change but we're talking a tenth of a degree or so.

I'm thinking that if you decrease caster / minimize it, it would have the effect of keeping the chassis flatter when turning. Perhaps jacking the rear inside up making it looser is why this is so common for people to add caster on a front wheel drive car? Generally speaking it will feel better.

I've auto-crossed FWD for decades and the most SOTP effect with more (positive) caster is steering feel as it relates to the self-centering effect, if both sides are equal. In autocross, additional caster does lead to valid camber gain as the steering inputs are much greater on smaller, tighter course. The camber/toe comments are dead-on though. The one significant drawback to the loose rear is during rapid transitions (slalom) as local club course designers seem to really like them. If the rear is loose enough to corner well, it is generally too loose for best time in transitions. Road racing, where slalom doesn't really apply, additional caster isn't nearly as effective. Suspension set is always a compromise with every setting, so it really depends on the driver "feel" for the given setup.

This article has been my guide for modifying, my Fiesta, nice to see it out again. When you do ALL of this, and then lower the car and stiffen the suspension and upgrade the brakes, no bar up front is no-bueno. My bigger front bar was from a GRM article or post somewhere, I'd love to see a Phase II follow-up article on what happens after you do what's in this article. 152ee80cbc

gentleman in my arms mp3 download

frank edwards rain of miracle mp4 download

atkins jones principi di chimica pdf download