In the olden days before Sephoras and Ultas became the new corner shops, finding the best hair dryer usually went like this: go to drugstore, see selection of five or six hair-dryers, choose mostly based on price and/or cuteness (scoring one in a non-black color was a big deal). Flash forward to 2016, and we feel like we need to earn an advanced degree in aerospace engineering—and read at least 2500 product reviews—before even thinking about navigating the new realm of high-end, high-tech hair-dryers.
Yes, the humble hair-dryer has come a long way, and while basic models still exist, the expensive (or shall we say, "investment") versions boast bells and whistles that can significantly improve your hair and your blowout experience—provided you take the time to decode which ones matter to your hair. We're here to help make this less like rocket science. Here's a cheat sheet of common hair-dryer traits and which to hone in on depending on your blowout goals.
What It Means: A high-wattage motor packs more wind power and will cut down your styling time without exposing hair to excessive heat. "If the motor isn't strong, you end up with more heat and less wind—if you think about it, that means you're 'toasting' your hair dry," says celebrity hairstylist Kristin Ess, who's all about proper wind-to-heat ratio in a dryer (the $146 Elchim 2001 has forever been her gold standard). Shoot for a wattage of 1800 to 2000. Bonus: High-wattage dryers don't burn out as quickly as their small-motored cousins.
Crucial If: You have thick hair that takes two centuries to dry.
What It Means: Ionic dryers shoot negative ions, water's ions are positively charged. That's the science behind why an ionic dryer is much more effective at busting up and scattering water droplets on the hair shaft, preventing them from soaking in and causing frizz, plus speeding up dry time. "The ionic feature works best for closing the cuticle and removing moisture from the hair, making the finish sleeker and more polished looking," says celebrity hairstylist Peter Butler, who glams models for the Sports Illustrated swimsuit issue. Think of tourmaline dryers as ionics on steroids; their insides are either made of or coated with this semi-precious mineral, which throws even more negative ions into the air—but can raise a dryer's price accordingly.
Crucial If: Your hair's frizzy or thick/difficult to dry.
Meanwhile, note that ionic can be a drawback if your hair is flat and/or oily, and for non-sleek hairstyles. "When I need volume for a sexier look with lift and movement I will use non-ionic," Butler says (he, too, swears by that Elchim, which is not ionic). "I'm careful to not over-dry the hair, robbing it of its texture and volume. Non-ionic assures me this won't happen." All of this is why one of the sexiest dryers we know, the $300 Harry Josh Pro Dryer, lets you toggle between ionic and non-ionic depending on your hairstyle.
What It Means: Dryers with these buzzwords are designed to distribute heat as evenly and gently as possible. Ceramic or porcelain can be used to coat (or replace) a dryer's metal or plastic heating elements and other internal parts, to make the heat less harsh and more consistent in temperature—plus they, too, emit negative ions to speed drying and smooth frizz (see above). If a dryer's billed as infrared, this means it uses longer energy wavelengths to penetrate the hair and dry it from the inside out.
Crucial If: Your hair is fine and/or dry—but really, everyone can benefit.
What It Means: Like ceramic, titanium is used to distribute heat evenly and keep the temperature steady. It tends to make for a very hot dryer, so isn't recommended for damage-prone hair but does speed the drying process. Titanium is also lighter-weight than ceramic—another reason it's a smart choice if heavy hair makes your blowout a workout.
Crucial If: Never really crucial, but can be a godsend if you have tons of hair.
What It Means: How much a dryer weighs. Duh—but this is a crucial factor for anyone with long hair and a lot of round-brush work ahead. Professional-grade dryers can sometimes be heavy because of their big motors/solid components, and think about it: If your arm goes numb halfway through your blowout, you won't finish the job with gusto (and there's no such thing as half a bad hair day—only full ones). "If it takes you 20 minutes to blow out your hair, choose a lighter model so you don't wear out your arms," Butler says. What's "lighter?" Drybar founder Alli Webb—who designed the $195 Buttercup dryer specifically to not strain her stylists' biceps—recommends looking for a dryer that weighs around a pound (tip: Amazon lists weights for dryers, unlike some retailers). "We all know the bathroom struggle is real," Webb says.
Crucial If: Your hair is long and takes forevvverrrr to get dry.
A cold button: Cool air seals the cuticle, locking in your style and boosting shine.
Adjustable heat: For fine hair that dries easily, lower heat gets the job done in a less damaging way.
Accessories: A diffuser is a must for keeping curls smooth and intact, while a concentrator nozzle is key for straightening and de-frizzing.
While there are always exceptions, a hair-dryer is one beauty purchase that you can justify spending more on. Pros agree that pricier dryers are everything when it comes to keeping hair healthier and prettier. "A hair-dryer is the one thing you can't buy cheap," notes Christian Wood, who works with Chrissy Teigen and swears by the $350 T3 PROi for its strong power and heat. While the Kardashian's hairstylist Jen Atkin reps the $399 Dyson.
"I think people make the mistake of buying cheaper dryers thinking they will replace it later," says Wood. It's true—we panic when one dies and don't have time to research our way to "the one." Yet upgrading into the next price bracket can seriously pay off over time if you crunch the numbers. To get super general, you could expect a dryer that costs $100+ to last 5 to 10 years, while a $30 model could burn out after two. Plus, who can quantify the value of not-sore arms and reduced frizz? "A better dryer will last you much longer and practically do your hair for you," Ess says. A dryer that actually does our hair for us? Now that's a feature we'd pay $$$$$ for. (In the meantime, blowout bars.)