The Inca Trail Machu Picchu

The Inca Trail to Macchu Picchu is one of the most famous hiking trails in the world. Not only mountain lovers, but probably all South America travelers and interested parties know this trail. For me it was the first multi-day hike, and in a very impressive area, so it is still an impressive memory for me.

The Inca Trail runs in the Andes of Peru, the destination is Macchu Picchu, the most famous Inca ruin in the world. The Inca Trail is usually hiked in 4 days, approx. 45 km at an altitude of 2,500 m to 4,200 m. The path is technically not difficult, but you need a good basic level of fitness and be able to go down long, steep passages. The biggest challenge, however, is the altitude.

Cusco - Capital of the Incas

The Inca Trail and Macchu Picchu can only be reached via Cusco. In the city and the surrounding area you can visit many Inca ruins and get in the mood for the Inca Trail. Above all, however, you can and should acclimatise yourself to the altitude in Cusco at 3,400 m. We first visited the city itself with its ruins, museums and markets for 1.5 days and slowly got used to the altitude.

On the third day we visited the four larger Inca ruins near Cusco and can highly recommend this for immigration. We took the bus to the highest and most distant ruins of Tambomachay. There's relatively little to see there, but it's a good place to start. The next stop is Puka Pukara, the "red fortress", which the Inca used as a base that could be seen from afar. Then it goes to the rock fortress Saqsaywaman, which hugs the mountain over a large area on several levels. This is very busy, and from here you have a magnificent overview of Cusco. At the end we had fun in the rock labyrinth of Qenqo.

In the evening we got to know the other fellow travelers in the office of Inca Trail tour operator and were able to equip them with any missing equipment.

On a guided Inca Trail tour, almost all equipment is usually included, especially a tent and mat. You have to bring your own sleeping bag, but you can usually borrow it from the organizer. We had our own sleeping bags and sleeping mats, which were more comfortable than the ones provided. Only warm clothes and on a guided Inca Trail tour almost all equipment is usually included, especially a tent and mat. You have to bring your own sleeping bag, but you can usually borrow it from the organizer. We had our own sleeping bags and sleeping mats, which were more comfortable than the ones provided. You should only bring warm clothing and mountain boots.

Inca Trail Itinerary

Day 01: Starting the Inca Trail

The Inca Trail starts early in the morning from Cusco - actually. We and all the other members of our tour group were picked up at the hotel before 6 a.m., but then we had to wait. Apparently our guide did not show up and the agency had to organize a replacement at 6am for the immediate start. Our substitute guide Jimmy was nice and also supportive when hiking, but his knowledge of the Inca and the ruins was at least "expandable". Today we still fondly remember the "hundreds of billions" of people in the Inca Empire.

After a breakfast stop in Ollantaytambo, where we all equipped ourselves with original Indian hiking sticks and coca leaves (to chew, against altitude sickness), we finally went to km 82, the official start of the Inca Trail, at 2,600 m Our guide did a lot of paperwork while we got ready for the hike and got to know the team (2nd guide, porter, cook).

Since the Inca Trail is very well known, the number of hikers was limited to 500 per day (approx. 200 guests and 300 guides / cooks / porters) in order to preserve it. In the popular travel months in summer you should therefore plan 3 to 6 months in advance for registration. You are not allowed to walk the Inca Trail alone, you have to walk it in a group with a guide to protect the trail. The agency where you book the tour also organizes the personal permits for the trail. For a tour on the Inca Trail, a tour operator must be selected months in advance at home and booked through them. The passport is registered, the original of which must be present at the starting point of the Inca Trail.

Around noon the Inca Trail really started. We were in a group of 13 guests with 15 porters plus 2 guides. The first stage is rather relaxed. It's relatively flat uphill, at the beginning along the Urubamba River.

The first Inca highlights are the ruins of Huillca Raccay and Patallacta, which we could only admire from above.

We ended the first day after approx. 12 km in Wayllabamba at approx. 3,100 m. In the camp we got a first intensive impression of what it means to be in a group with porters and a cook. The porters set out with us. When we arrived, all the tents were set up, a kitchen and a dining tent were ready, we were given warm water and towels for our hands. The cook had prepared a 3-course meal for us on a gas stove. Wayllabamba is the last (tiny) community on the way, and there is even a small shop.

In a "normal" tour package, the porters transport the tents. In addition, they carry all accessories for food and drink. You can also “rent” a personal porter. We did this because I had bad experiences with altitude sickness on my first tour at 4,000 m. Our additional porter had a large backpack for both of us with a sleeping bag, sleeping mats and a change of clothes, we ourselves were only traveling with a daypack. Our porter was very grateful for the ergonomic hiking backpack. On the trail, the porters sometimes run with huge gas bottles that they have made portable with ropes, on sneakers or even in sandals.

Day 02: Dead Woman’s Pass

Day 2 is about getting down to business. From 3,100 m in Wayllabamba to 4,215 m, the highest point of the Inca Trail. And when you think you've made it, it's 700 m downhill really steep, and then again over a mountain to Paqaymayo Camp at 3,500 m.

We started relatively relaxed in the morning. First it goes through the jungle, and apart from trees and a small stream there is little to see. Since we started the first day due to our late start after the crowds, we only noticed on the second day how crowded the Inca Trail is despite the restriction.

And the further we hike, the more the altitude becomes noticeable and shows who can cope well with it and who cannot. We had two really sporty Americans in the group, but for reasons of vacation capacity they started on the Inca Trail the day after their arrival in Cusco. They found it very difficult to even get up the mountain. Our main guide went in front while the second guide / assistant brought up the rear with the slowest of the group, making sure everyone got there at some point. For us, the acclimatization in Cusco was definitely worth it.

While we covered most of the incline with the best visibility, we could see the fog approaching at some point. It got stuck on Dead Woman’s Pass, so that we - finally arrived at the top - couldn't see anything. Nevertheless, we were very happy to have reached the pass.

After a few photos and a short break, we started the descent again, because not only was the air thin on the pass, it was also windy and cold. The descent was almost as demanding as the ascent - it was very steep and after the pass we were all tired.

The interesting thing about the Inca Trail is that it is not a typical mountain path, but paved paths with stairs. Not evenly paved, and the steps are also very different, but you climb stairs up and down the mountain.

We were very happy when we finally reached our second campsite in Paqaymayu, where we were treated to warm water, tea and an excellent three-course dinner. At every meal we were impressed by what the cook and his helpers conjured up for us on a gas stove that was dragged along.

Inca ruins on the way

Day 03: Continue the Inca Trail

Day 03 started mostly cold at 3,500 m. Before we got up there was already the first hot tea in the tent, so that we quickly felt ready for the day.

In the most beautiful sunshine we mainly explored Inca ruins on day 3. After the ruins of Runkurakay we went over the second pass (3,950 m) to Sayaqmarka.

On the way it also goes through small tunnels from Inca times.

After that, the path goes up and down, but to a much lesser extent than the day before. We take a lunch break on the third pass - and can already see Macchu Picchu in the distance.

The food, the tents, the surroundings - it's all wonderful on the Inca Trail. Aside from the fact that it is full, there is one major negative point: the toilets. In order not to pollute the trail, the specified "sanitary facilities" must be used. That these are just holes in the ground is actually not bad - but they are also incredibly dirty.

After visiting the well-preserved remains of Phuyupatamarka, it's only downhill - but quite steep - to Winay Wayna, the last and most comfortable camp on the Inca Trail. There are even showers here, and after this refreshment we were able to enjoy the evening outside with a beer at an altitude of 2,700 m in mild temperatures. Not too long though, because the next morning we went up very early.

Day 04: Hiking to Macchu Picchu

On day 4 we started at 4 a.m. in complete darkness, armed only with flashlights or headlamps. We want to reach Inti Punku, the sun gate, by sunrise to enjoy the view over Macchu Picchu. We really ran to make it - just like all the other groups, so that there were short traffic jams in tight (climbing) places.

We got there in time, but whoever was there was the fog. Macchu Picchu is in the rainforest, so according to our guide, it is more likely to have fog in the morning than not to have fog. The sunrise over Macchu Picchu turned out to be a gray wall for us.

During our descent to Macchu Picchu, the fog gradually cleared so that we could still enjoy beautiful views. After we had let the view work on us, there was a detailed tour of Macchu Picchu. The size of the complex is impressive, walls and stairs are well preserved, the stones offer an impressive insight into the Inca stonemasonry.

After the tour we had time to explore the ruins on our own. We actually wanted to climb the Huayna Picchu, which is the mountain in the background of the Macchu Picchu complex. However, this is also limited. Today you can / have to register for this in advance, when we were there, it was "first come, first serve" - ​​but unfortunately our guide did not point this out to us, so we were too late - the contingent was already there for the day exhausted.

In general, you should also think twice about whether you trust yourself to do the Huayna Picchu, especially with the strenuous days on the Inca Trail in your legs. Steep, narrow stairs lead up the mountain, only secured by ropes in a few places. It also goes almost vertically downwards. But above all, “only” 400 people per day are a lot, many of whom are tourists with no mountain experience who would not walk such exposed trails in the Alps.

After we had really admired Macchu Picchu, we took the bus over the steep serpentines to Aguas Calientes in the valley. There you can bathe in the water of the eponymous hot springs and relax your muscles from the exertions of the tour. The place itself has very little to offer otherwise, after a rest in the restaurant we went back to Cusco by train.

Inca Trail Extra Information

For us, the Inca Trail tours were especially impressive and we are very happy that we did it. But it is not a hike where you can relax and enjoy nature and culture, because it is full everywhere. An alternative to the Inca Trail is the Salkantay Trek, which also leads past lesser known Inca ruins to Macchu Picchu. You can also walk alone, but there are also many groups with horses or mules. If you would like to explore the Andes without the crowds, you can do so in the Cordillera Blanca, for example, then without hiking to Macchu Picchu. Macchu Picchu - which is definitely worth seeing despite the many tourists! - can also be easily reached by train.

Other Inca Trail

The Classic Inca Trail is from Km 82 to Machu Picchu - km 42. but there other routes connecting with the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu. These route are not popular but the scenic trail are spectacular and mavelus.

Short Inca Trail

Salkantay Inca Trail trek

Choquequirao to Machu Picchu trek

Inca Quarry Trek

5 Day Inca Trail

Vilcabamba Trek to Machu Picchu

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