These pictures are from a community boatbuilding project run by Village Community Boathouse to build Cormorant, a 14 foot Whitehall rowboat at Brooklyn Bridge Park in April-May 2016.

Materials: 5 sheets 6mm marine grade plywood, 1 sheet 12mm marine grade plywood, 6 1x2x16ft meranti boards, 1.5 gallons epoxy, 5qts wood flour.

You'll need some tables. These tables suck, don't make these tables. Then make the strongback. This strongback design sucks. Just stick some 2x4s on sawhorses and it'll be better than this.

Draw the bottom, using the half-breadths from the table of offsets. Then connect the dots with a batten. Made in two pieces connected with a 6 inch (1:12) scarf.

Draw the stem, transom, and sternpiece on paper (not shown), then figure out a way to squeeze them all onto the sheet (2 each).

Glue it up. Screw lots of things down to the tables because you only have 7 clamps.

Clean up the edges, chisel out the rabbets in the stem and sternpiece, bevel the bottom, cut a slot in the sternpiece for the bottom

Mount the temporary frames. Run a string over the top of the strongback as the base line, use a level/ruler on the centerline of each frame to get it the right distance from the base line. Do the same with the transom and stem (we didn't). You'll need some things sticking out of the strongback to attach the stem and transom.

Notch the stem to accept the bottom.

Mark the plank edges. You want the planks to be roughly equally sized, but it's more important that the plank edges be fairlines. Do one side, and mirror over the centerline for the other.

Cut the frames (including the transom) to accept the plank laps: Draw straight lines from each plank edge to 1/4" in from the next. Then mount the frames again and cover the sides with clear tape.

Glue up the stem, bottom, sternpiece and transom.

Spiling: run a batten flat along where the plank goes (you may need to make one with a bend for more sharply curved boats), using a compass mark the distance up to the glue line and down to the plank edge at each frame.

Mark the transom and the shape near the stem.

Then lay the batten out flat on two sheets of plywood overlapping by 3", use the compass again to copy the distances up and down onto the plywood (not shown), connect the dots, and then cut it out.

Adjust if necessary, cut the scarfs, cut the gains.

Epoxy both sides, lots of filler, tack it on with 3/4" drywall screws.

taped blocks for clamping the scarf

Repeat without taking any more process pictures because you're worried about the schedule

Clean up the transom. Make quarter knees.

Plane down the garboard lap (not shown), then put fiberglass tape over it.

Glue on the outwale. Use 3/4" drywall screws from the inside because you have only 7 clamps. Break the sheer plank at the bow because you didn't make a breasthook. Put some stainless steel screws in. Nobody will know.

Lift the boat off the frames. Dissassemble everything and make some awful sawhorses. Flip the boat and put it on them.

Plane off the excess sheer plank. Clean up the transom.

Mark the positions of the gunwale blocks and stringer blocks on one side, then copy them to the other side using a string run from the center of the stem. Glue them in, 1-1/4" screws from the inside for the gunwale blocks, 3/4" screws from the outside for the stringer blocks.

Add a fillet of thickened epoxy on the inside of the garboard and 2nd seams

Glue in the inwales and the stringers.

Make thwarts - 1/4" plywood laminated to 1x8 pine.

Chisel, plane, sand off all the sharp & ugly bits.

Make the stern seat

Sealer. Drain plug.

Give it a name. Get someone to draw some cool shit on it. Varnish. Oarlock sockets (not shown).

Roll it down to the beach.