17 January

A Tale of Two Cities

We spent over 7 weeks in Porto, Portugal, and are now in Christchurch, New Zealand for a month. We continue to compare the two cities from our perspective as American retirees, which means a lot of sightseeing and dining out, and getting around without a car. It has been enlightening.

Both cities have good public transportation systems, but Porto's buses and metros may reach a bit further into the outskirts of the city. The cost for the two is roughly the same. We managed to get the resident senior price in Porto; if we had gotten that here, I believe we would have been able to ride free altogether. As it is, some of the Christchurch drivers seem surprised that we are not presenting the special senior card, although as soon as we speak, they know why. Overall, I believe it is slightly more difficult to navigate Christchurch with just bus transportation.

A big difference in the towns is the attitude of the riders toward the bus drivers. In NZ, nearly everyone leaving the bus thanks the driver, and he/she usually responds. In Porto, the drivers didn't expect any such courtesy--and most did not merit it. Seldom did anyone utter a word to the driver, as riders were in a rush to find a seat or something to hold onto before the driver's jackrabbit start. 

One aspect that Christchurch excels in is the prevalence of bike lanes for those who bike, ride electric e-bikes and rental scooters, and use all sorts of alternative modes of transportation. We even saw one man on an electric unicycle today! Porto does not come close to meeting the needs of bikers, and it has way too many cars and narrow streets for pedestrians to navigate safely.

Food is a huge interest to us. I think the meals are slightly more delicious in NZ, but nobody can beat the Portuguese pastries and breads. The grocery stores are definitely better in Porto, and the food is fresher. The overall cost of food is lower in Portugal. Gelato, our dessert of choice, is excellent in both cities. Breakfasts are more to my liking in NZ; Bill prefers Porto's pastries, especially Pastel de Natas. 

What else is there to compare? Porto has a fabulous river walk and wondrous views of ocean waves breaking across the manmade jetties. I will never tire of those moments on the Atlantic. Christchurch, though, has a magnificent beach on the Pacific at New Brighton, and walking there soothes my soul every time we visit. I cannot say anything bad about either ocean.

What about other sightseeing? Overall, Porto has more museums, more ancient buildings, and more history. It is hard to compare the other historic sights, as Christchurch is rebuilding from the earthquake of 2011. So much of the central city was destroyed, and it is still several years away from being finished. Regardless, I think Porto holds more for the lover of antiquities, which is why Bill prefers it. I am more attracted to the spiritual history of the native peoples in NZ than to the older Christian past that Portugal eschews, and I like the more organized layout of Christchurch, in spite of the ongoing reconstruction.

On our arrival in NZ, we were both still rather worn from fighting our colds (not Covid). I coughed so hard my whole body felt bruised; Bill's body reacted primarily by causing pain in his right leg. We are mostly recovered, with lingering coughs that are no longer holding us back from having fun. Like visiting a small history museum and the colorful exhibits of the Maori creation story, which was fascinating and moving. And trips to the beach at New Brighton, where we observed sand carvers, fisherman, and surfers. There is a water complex of heated pools that is right alongside the beach and looks like something I will have to explore further! 

Have I mentioned shopping? I fell in love with the native greenstone last year, and we discovered a magnificent jewelry store just blocks away that specializes in all things greenstone. Yes, we made some purchases there, and are now wearing symbols of strength and leadership, per the greenstone legends. 

In addition to trips in and around Christchurch, we took two days for the wonderfully scenic TranzAlpine train ride from Christchurch to Greymouth on the western coast. I love train travel, and the sights we enjoyed through the interior of NZ peaked the "Wow!" meter continuously. It was over 5 hours of train travel each way, and I don't regret a minute of it.

Once in Greymouth, we explored the tiny town and learned the history of flooding that had devastated that area since the 1800s, when white settlers arrived to mine for coal, gold, and... greenstone! Yes, the west coast is the heart of greenstone territory, and we found the many historical plaques around the river and railway station most enlightening in telling the history of that region. Not to mention the small art museum where we found (you guessed it!) more greenstone carvings from past and present artists. So sweet!

Of final mention to those of you who know that Bill and I are both Amateur Radio (Ham) operators, Bill found the website for the local ham club (Christchurch Amateur Radio Club, NZART Branch 05) and we met the group for their Monday breakfast (what a bakery!) and later that week for socialization at their expansive clubhouse. The Kiwis were most welcoming, and we are hopeful we may see some of them again during our short stay here. It was a pleasure to have an entire evening with folks who (mostly!) speak our same language.

Still the intrepid travelers: Coughing Lory and Limping Bill