Axle Steel App Download

I prefer coil spring mostly because it takes much less forging. Axle makes good bottom tools and handled top tools. Leaf spring is god for hacks and such, I'm getting less and less fond of leaf spring. It's good steel but generally requires more forging than coil, even for blades.

What type metal is used to make axles in vehicles? The 1-1/4 inch or larger solid bars that go from the wheel to the gears that drive the wheel. Usually has a spline on one end.

It would seem there is some good resource material there.

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A smith I know used to work in an axle plant and he has said that recently made axles are generally 1050H for smaller ones and 1541H for larger ones. (with 1 3/8" unforged diameter being the line of demarcation and 1 3/8 being on the 1050H side)

The Transmission drive shafts I am familiar with are usually made from a high carbon steel, different manufacturers use different specifications, however all the steel ones should be heat treatable, and make excellent hammer heads, drifts, anvil tools etc.

If you consider their function, they have to withstand shock loads and torsion, so they should be of a good quality steel capable of functioning to these parameters.

Also what used to be good quality steel were the inside gears and shafts in vehicle gearboxes, some of which can be used to make interesting shapes in hot metal, I would suggest normalising/ annealing them first, and just surface harden the working face by whichever method you prefer.

I've got the axles out of a Ford Ranger (smaller than Glenn's 1 1/4 inches though), two chunks of semi truck axle (one Volvo and one Kenworth IIRC) and one chunk out of a Bobcat skid loader. The semi axles spark test somewhere in the 1040-1060 range, the Bobcat axle sparks a little more like 4140ish. I can't remember what the Ranger axles sparked like, and they're at the bottom of a resource pile so they aren't getting checked anytime soon!

-Aaron @ the SCF

I am sure that there is a variation in steel selected by the design engineers based on the exact application. But most any of them would be appropriate hammers and tooling as they are a high strenth steel with good hardenability

I do know that John Deere Tractor axles were made of 1045/1050 steel based on a discussion with a retired John Deere Engineer. (at least this is what was used during the time he worked at Deere)

Historically blacksmiths looked at axle shafts as good stock for hammers and tools. So have at it. Just make certain you stress relieve prior to hardening and temper back to reduce potential for chipping.

On a side issue temper colors, which are oxides of iron formed on the surface of the steel, are a function of not only temperature but of time. So if you are using an oven or kiln for heat treatment, as some of the earlier posters have mentioned, the temper colors may appear hotter than actual temperature that they were exposed to.

As an example at one of previous jobs we had tooling that operated at 400 deg F with tooling temperatures controlled by a electronic temperature controller. This is less than "pale yellow" at 450 deg F. However these tools appeared "dark blue" which is nearly 600 deg F inspite of the fact they never saw temperatures more than 400 def F.

I am not familiar with exactly how long exposure it takes at 400 deg F to turn the tool blue, but the first time new tools came back in the shop they were all dark blue.

So I guess bottom line is that if you have access to oven or kiln, and leave your steel in the oven trust the oven not the color.

Remember the commercial heat treater's rule of thumb. 1 hour at temeperature per inch of thickness. This is hard to do in a forge but with an oven or kiln is easy.

For best outcome many industrial tooling and dies are "double drawn" that is double tempered, Heated to tempering temperature, cooled and reheated to tempering temperature again and cooled.

The steel specs have changed a lot in the last 30 years, maufacturing processes have improved, and new industrial heat treating processes are becoming commonplace and this changes the materials that we are salavaging from different applications. The salvaged metal charts can declare authoritatively that a particular whatsit is a particular alloy, and unless it is published by the manufacturer as a current product spec it is only a good educated guess. 4140 used to be a common steel used for lots of applications where toughness and a bit of wear resistance was needed, like shafting. My impression is that even though it is still commonly available and spec'ed in a ton of older reference books, I think in many applications it has been replaced with alloys better suited to induction forging and hardening. I trust Jeff's Reinhart's information on the alloy on new forged axils, but I also know that some of the 800ton Cat dump truck axils are being cast at Harrison Steel just down the road from me, I don't know what alloy they are using but they are hollow (the hollow in the axil is the brakefluid reseviour, and lightens the axil and they don't have to find a 12" upsetter and machine them for a day or two, to change to a new design... Saves Cat time and money, but it is a pain for Harrison, because the casting have a bad tendency to crack in heat treat, and then the cracks have to be ground out and welded solid then back to heat treat to roll the dice again... Bad stress risers between thick and thin sections of the casting... due I would venture to guess because of specs from Cat, they are trying to cast too close to finished demensions to save on machining costs and weight...) Just an example of how manufacturing technics are changing to fit changing design requirements and that includes the alloys they use. I can't help but be dubious of "KNOWING" what a certain steel is. The charts are a good guideline to start with, but what it comes down to is, heat it, beat it, then try and heat treat it... Then test it to see how it proforms. A simple heat treat test is all you need to do, draw out a thin section of the unknown material, allow it to air quench or normalize, test it with a file, if the file skates then great its an air hardening alloy, try and temper it. If the file bites after the air quench, then it is mostlikely not an air hardening alloy, and you should heat it back up to critical and quench in warm oil, file test it again, if it skates try and temper it, if the file still bites, then try a water or salt water quench, if the file still bites its a mild steel with limited hardenablity, you may need to try superquench or just a cold hose and a lot of water. You can also do this same testing, by using 4 identical test bars, then you can try and break the test bars after heat treat to give you better idea of the working characteristics of the steel. It is good to know how a particular supply of scrap will react in your shop, to your technics...

Plastic with a wood axle. The Spintastics manta ray came that way. They use a wood insert similar to the TK yoyos. You can also remove the caps and add weight rings. Plays very nice IMO. The proyos come the same way. Both of these generally outplay the duncans with the metal axle. The manta ray is a butterfly model and the proyo is an imperial shape. YYE sells the proyo.

Actually, the entire Spintastics line used the same shells and the axle parts were all interchangeable between them. The eclipse and the maelstrom used the same parts except that they had hard plastic caps.

This is an early review as only managed to get the axle installed recently and so far so good. Despite the pain associated with whole process of getting my rear wheel functioning properly again, I'm giving a rating of four stars. This is only because Matt in the customer service department at Hayes was there to quickly answer my questions and even called at one point when I requested it.

That said, after going through this, I am of the opinion that an aluminum rear axle should not have been specified for an electric fat bike. It wore down prematurely taking out the bearings and the ratchet ring in the process. Replacing the entire hub was not an option as SUNringl does not provide an option with the steel axle installed. The more jaded amongst us may say that this sounds like a planned obsolescence to sell more bearings, axles, ratchet rings, and ratchet ring tools...

I spoke with a tech that told me to order this because I could not eliminate play in my bearings i went through 3 sets having to change em each ride! The billet aluminum axle was bent. This fixed it right up.

IMPORTANT: Please note that metal-on-metal contact on the sleeves (like loading & unloading weight plates) will cause wearing of the finish over time. Regular Olympic collars will work on this specialty bar, axle collars are NOT required.

Novatec Thru-Axle hubs allow you to change the spec on your hubs to match your frame. This can be done by changing axles, quickly and easily, using basic tools. Once done, no other wheel adjustments are needed.

Quality crafted Steel Wagon Wheel and Axle kits in four sizes. These sets hold 400 to 500 lbs. easily. We can build them for heavier projects, just let us know. Wheels are painted to prevent rust, roll very smoothly, and will last for decades. Your custom length round axle to fit your project is included in price, along with bearings and shaft collars to attach wheels to the axle. A very simple, very strong design. Please either call us or enter in Order Notes how wide your project is to help us determine how long to cut your axle. ff782bc1db