Steinhart Aquarium is one of the most biologically diverse and interactive aquariums on Earth. Home to nearly 60,000 live animals, representing more than 1,000 unique species, it offers guests an unprecedented view of underwater and terrestrial habitats. From species displayed nowhere else in the world to exhibits about cutting-edge research in little-known ocean ecosystems, a visit to Steinhart Aquarium is full of discovery.
From our Venom: Fangs, Stingers, and Spines exhibit with over a dozen species that bite, stun, and sting, to our charismatic colony of endangered African penguins, Steinhart Aquarium captivates visitors of all ages.
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Caring for nearly 60,000 live animals goes far beyond daily feedings and regular check-ups. Enrichment programs developed by aquarium biologists ensure that animal residents remain happy, healthy, and engaged.
Steinhart biologists participate in a variety of breeding programs aimed at conserving species and maintaining genetic diversity in zoo and aquarium populations, including African penguins, frogs, cuttlefish, and corals.
Epistylis is a disease commonly confused with ich. It can look almost identical to ich. Epistylis is typically fuzzy and translucent while ich is clearly defined and very white. Epistylis stick out from the fish while ich only slightly protrudes from the fish. Epistylis is commonly found secondary to a bacterial infection. I recommend treating epistylis with:
The bacteria attack the fish both internally and externally. It is the internal bacterial infection which will kill the fish. The external bacterial infection sheds bacteria which feed the epistylis. Killing the external bacteria will not save the fish from the lethal effects of the internal infection.
Epistylis is a very common opportunistic organism found in small quantities in most aquariums and on many fish (Diana Walstad researched it and found it was found on most fish by pathologists). It is a single celled ciliated protozoan closely related to paramecium and tetrahymena. A single epistylis is too small to be seen by the naked eye but epistylis grows in branching, stalked colonies which can become relatively large, up to three times the diameter of an ich spot.
Epistylis is an opportunistic organism which feeds on bacteria in the water column and generally, but not always, simply uses the fish as something to hold onto. Sometimes, if an aquarium is heavily overfed, the bacteria in the water column becomes so numerous that it feeds epistylis on the glass of the tank. Little white dots of epistylis colonies will appear in patches on the aquarium glass.
Sometimes the epistylis on a fish exists in a symbiotic relationship with a gram negative bacteria. The bacteria and the epistylis attack the skin of the fish in concert. It is often unclear whether the primary attacker is the bacteria or the epistylis but it is unimportant. What is important is that virtually all epistylis infections should have antibiotics put in the food to kill the bacteria.
Whenever a good photo of any fish disease comes up on social media we make a screen capture of it for reference. We number these screen captures. We have 97 screen captures of what is clearly epistylis and 49 screen captures of what is clearly ich. So epistylis appears to be more common in home aquariums than ich. Note we also have about 35 photos which could be epistylis or could be ich. The only way to tell for sure is to take a scraping and examine it under a microscope. This is why we recommend any questionable diagnosis be treated for BOTH ich and epistylis.
Epistylis is small to large gray or white spots on the fish. Whenever a post with a picture of a fish with epistylis posts on social media there is an avalanche of posts identifying the culprit as ich. Ich and epistylis are easy to get confused. Here are some examples of epistylis that could be mislabeled ich very easily:
Epistylis seems to attack loaches, goldfish and bottom dwellers preferentially, especially in tanks with little water circulation and/or poor aeration. This may be due to a higher bacteria concentration near the substrate, especially if there is a bottom mulm present. When loaches get epistylis always look hard at the aeration and water circulation in the aquarium.
But epistylis CAN occur without an underlying bacterial infection. The following photo is instructive. This is a molly (a livebearer!) with a clear case of epistylis. The fish had survived six days when this photo was taken. This does NOT seem to be a bacterial infection of the fish with secondary epistylis. Rather the water is cloudy and the water surface is a solid mat of bubbles. This would indicate a high bacteria count in the water and the epistylis is merely feeding off the bacteria in the water. The only thing that will help this fish is to add a ton of biofiltration.
I do not like cartridge hang on back or cartridge internal filters. Epistylis is very commonly associated with these cartridge filters. If one has a cartridge filter improve it by adding the sponge or pot scrubbers recommended in this link:
And several 95% water changes are in order over the span of a few days. Note 95% water changes do not harm the fish, contrary to popular mythology. Also note that antibiotics in the water column will only kill bacteria in the water column for a few hours. Then the antibiotic actually feeds a bacterial bloom. And note epistylis eat dead bacteria just as avidly as live bacteria.
For small aquariums I like the Sunsun HW-603B External Canister Filter ($40). It has 80 cubic inches foam which makes a great biological filter if you only very lightly clean it once every four to eight months (ignore the profit minded directions which say to replace the foam). Also I like under gravel filters. If you clean under-gravel frequently, they are a pain in the butt and do not work well. If you just leave them alone, they are a great inexpensive filter. If you use a sponge or an under-gravel power them with a powerhead rather than bubbles and you will triple the filtration capacity.
Epistylis does not feed on the fish. It feeds on the bacteria in the skin mucus of the fish and in the water column. Epistylis is commonly accompanied by pathogenic gram-negative bacteria either as fin rot, slime coat disease or septicemia. The generalized symptomless bacterial infection, fin rot (typically columnaris bacteria) or hemorrhagic septicemia (small red areas of blood beneath the skin that are caused by aeromonas bacteria) are typically the organisms which kill the fish, not the epistylis. So it is important to treat the fish with a broad spectrum antibiotic IN THE FOOD AND ONLY IN THE FOOD.
Bacterial diseases need to be hit with a broad-spectrum antibiotic. These need to be obtained from the internet. They include Thomas Labs Fish Mox, Midland Vet Service Aqua-Mox, VetDepot Amoxicillin, SeaChem KanaPlex, Fishbiotic Ampicillin, Mardel Maracyn 2, Thomas Labs Fish Min and Thomas Labs Fish Doxy. They are ONLY effective when mixed with the food (contrary to manufacturers profit driven instructions).
It is easy to make medicated food. Heat 1/4 cup water (two ounces or 58 milliliters, not a lot) in the microwave. Then blend seven grams of plain animal derived gelatin (Knox gelatin, one packet) into the hot solution with vigorous stirring. Take two tablespoons of dry commercial fish food (pellets or flake) and mix it with just a little of the hot water/ gelatin mixture. Add hot water/gelatin until you get a paste like consistency. If it gets too watery just add more food. To get gel food to float simply mix in a little whipped cream at this point.
Put the fish in a 1.5 to 2% salt bath for up to twenty minutes. Watch the fish carefully. Different fish have much different tolerances for salt at this level. When the fish loses equilibrium and rolls over, quickly return them to fresh water.
A liter of water is 1,000 grams. There are 5.69 grams of salt in a level teaspoon of salt. So a 1.5% solution is about 3 level teaspoons of salt per liter of water. Or 10 level teaspoons (roughly one fourth cup) of salt per gallon of water in a tray.
This disease prevention by an established, mature filter is a very important feature in all aquariums. It is why the experts keep emphasizing how a mature aquarium is so much more healthy than a newly set up aquarium. This is why it is so important for newcomers not to take things too rapidly. Add small numbers of small juvenile fish to any new aquarium. Go slow! And do not clean or change the filter unless the slow flows down.
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Hi All,
I just went through a long bout of epistylis in my 75 gallon aquarium. I tried the lowering of the temperature, the antibiotics, the ich-x, frequent water changes. No luck. My fish kept getting worse. I even did the salt baths but when I put the fish back in the tank, new epistylis would attach to them. Only my angel fish were affected. After many weeks and my one angel looking close to death, I set up a new 20 gallon tank (using Prime and Stabilize), then salt bathed by two angels to remove the epistylis on them, then put them in the new tank. It has been two days and they are doing significantly better. One has no epistylis and the one that was close to death is recovering well. She may need one more salt bath, but is almost epistylis free. Just wanted to share in case this info might help someone else.
I recently purchased 3 juvenile discus and 4 juvenile flag cichlid (festivus) and treated them prophylactically with antibiotic laced food (Kanaplex + Metronidazole) for 7 days. None of the fish showed any symptoms of illness, but the fish were expensive, so I decided to treat anyway. I think I may have misunderstood your recommendation of 10 eyeballs daily and overfed the antibiotic food. Now I have an outbreak of what appears to be epistylis. 152ee80cbc
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