Aprilia Mana CVT Belt Change Guide
Updated: 21 January 2022
Preface
Sources: The following is based on the Belt change photo essay for Mana made by user pete roper. A secondary source was also used. These are the only 2 posts made with photos and / or comments about the belt change I am aware of.
Most photos are courtesy of pete roper, with supplemental photos from the official "Service Station Manual" for the Mana.
Special thanks to AndyT for his review and corrections on this guide.
Purpose: The primary reasons for making this guide is to provide something that could easily be printed and used in the garage. Also, an effort was made to make this accessible to people that are not English speakers. I have used plain wording hoping a user's browser can translate the instructions. I would welcome suggestions for improvement.
Disclaimer: The author of this webpage and all of the sources and reviewers accept no responsibility for inaccuracies or omissions to these instructions. By use of these instructions you are acknowledging you have the expertise and necessary tools to perform these steps competently.
Status of development of these instructions: The page should be considered preliminary, and requires a quality control check by someone performing a belt change while following this guide and noting when more details are needed, or where corrections are necessary.
Request for Information:
Any details on how the rear pulley can be spread apart to install the new belt without using the expensive tool is priority. (Step 11)
How the front pulley bolt can be tightened without using the special tool. (Step 15)
A list of all tools needed to change the belt, especially the sizes of sockets and hex wrenches.
A review of this guide for order of steps, accuracy, and completeness.
Better photos
Author: Colchicine (email)
Table of Contents
[This list is not complete]
Socket set (8, 15, 27mm)
Cross-head (aka Phillips) screwdriver (#2 and #3)
Flat-head screwdriver
Impact wrench / Rattle gun
Hex / Allen wrench set (4 and 8mm)
Copper anti-seize lubricant (step 13)
Rubber / Dielectric grease (step 16)
String / wire
Semi-Optional
Clutch Tool 020659Y
See step 11
"Front Pulley Circlip" 020660Y
Or an adjustable pin wrench can be used
See step 15
Disconnect the battery. Significant damage may occur if the key is turned to ON while these parts are disassembled.
Remove the left side foot peg. Remove the lower bolt of the muffler heat shield, and loosen the top bolt (4mm hex), swing the heat shield away to get access to the top bolt, which requires an 8mm hex and 15mm socket.
gear shifter.
15mm socket
8mm hex and 15mm socket
2. Remove 4 screws for the upper housing of the transmission cooling housing. Remove 2 screws for lower transmission cooling cover.
Service Manual pages 151-152
#2 Phillipshead screwdriver
#3 Phillipshead screwdriver
3. Remove screw under upper housing. Note: screw on the bottom side.
Service Manual page 152
4. Next remove the sensors and all the wiring including the red wire to the starter motor (under the engine). Remove the side stand switch (not shown: captive nuts in the plate that it bolts to, don't lose them), and the wear potentiometer (2 screws).
NOTE: The service manual says removing the potentiometer begins the point where computer retraining (see last step) is required, even if you go no further and even if you immediately replace the potentiometer. However, one user has reported this not being a problem if the belt change message has not yet appeared on the dash (see Computer Retraining).
Service Manual pages 153
5. Remove air filter cover with Phillipshead screwdriver (not shown). Remove rubber boot from CVT motor (aka variator motor) and remove 2 bolts. The motor may be difficult to remove, tap it gently until it is loose. Support motor with string / wire.
Note: The top bolt is longer
Service Manual pages 154
4mm hex
Note: Air box has been removed in this photo, and is not necessary to do for this procedure.
6. Loosen rear pulley bolt (red arrow, 27mm) with an impact wrench. Remove the 13 screws of the CVT cover, then remove the rear pulley bolt. CVT cover may be difficult to remove.
Note: An electric impact wrench might not be able to loosen the rear pulley bolt. A compressed air impact wrench might be necessary.
Service Manual page 237
7. Remove front pulley bolt with an impact wrench. Slide off the outer section of the front pulley.
The front pulley is also known as the variator hub, or driven pulley.
Service Manual pages 249 - 251
8. Remove intermediate shaft, then remove inner section of the front pulley. Remove rear pulley and old belt.
Grooves in the pulley faces may be noticeable, but are normal.
Service Manual page 239
9. Clean the interior of the CVT housing and the CVT cover. Important, inspect and clean the intake and exhaust screens of the CVT cover.
10. Unscrew the front pulley assembly and clean it. Inspect the white plastic sliders in the front pulley. Replacement is unlikely, however.
11. Ensure all pulley faces are free of oil, grease, and dirt. Pull pulleys apart to install new belt.
Details on clutch disassembly and inspection.
IMPORTANT NOTE the belt is directional. The Mana's engine is unconventional as it spins clockwise when viewed from the left side of the motorcycle. So the arrow on the belt must be pointing to the rear.
Special Tool: The special tool for doing this is pictured below, it makes this task quicker and easier. However, others have reported successfully changing the belt without this tool.
“I've just done a belt change, sanded clutch pads, re-greased drive shafts, copper greased gear changer, put new o rings in, put it all back together with everyday tools”
“No special tool required to spread rear pulley and install a new belt, only channeling hate and anger, a pair of rags, and a Red Bull slammed moments before the aneurism-causing force required of your hands to work against the contra spring.”
One user reported jamming wood in between the pulley faces to keep the pulley faces apart enough to put the new belt on. This can be done by using thin pieces of wood on the pulley faces, and hitting a 3rd piece of wood with a hammer, to act as a wedge, to force the pulley faces apart. The items used for this must be something that can not damage the pulley surfaces.
Also note, wear on the old CVT belt may be as little as 1 mm or 0.6mm in width.
Service Manual pages 241- 247
12. Reinstall intermediate shaft, then the inner section of the front pulley.
13. Separate the halves of the front pulley and grease the threads where the screwdriver is pointing to. Suggested lubricant is a copper anti-seize lubricant.
14. Reassemble the front pulley by screwing the two halves together. Ensure the 2 teeth (left) engage with the shaft (right). Then, unscrew the halves by ½ turn. This is done so the belt is gripped by the front pulley, but the pulley has room to be closed fully, so the CVT computer (TCU) can be properly retrained to the dimensions of the new belt. It is critically important these 2 pins are aligned, or the variator will be damaged beyond repair when the bolt is torqued down if they are not aligned.
15. Install the front pulley onto the drive shaft. Pictured is a special tool to properly torque the bolt. Similar to the other special tool in step 11, others have reported finding other ways to properly tighten the bolt without the special tool. An adjustable pin wrench will likely work. If you do find a method that works, please report it to the author. Pete marks the bolt and notes the number of turns it requires to remove the bolt, and uses an impact wrench to reinstall it.
Torque, driven pulley: 175-195 Nm
16. Install 2 new O-rings on front pulley and apply rubber or dielectric grease to the O-rings. Do not use lithium or other petroleum based lubricants on rubber.
17. Install CVT cover. Ensure the parts with arrows line up with each other.
Torque, exterior cover screws: 5-7 Nm
Note: the bolt circled in red below is shorter than the rest of the bolts.
18. Install rear pulley.
Torque, driven pulley nut: 153-187 Nm
19. Install CVT motor and rubber boot.
Note: The top bolt is longer (needs to be confirmed)
20. Reinstall the sensors and all the wiring including the red wire to the starter motor (under the engine). Replace the side stand switch, and the wear potentiometer (2 screws). (see step #4)
21. Reinstall upper and lower transmission covers (see steps # 2 & 3).
22. Reinstall foot peg and gear shifter. (see step #1)
23. Connect Battery (see step #1)
The following is generally accepted as a requirement after a belt change. However, one user has reported changing the belt before the warning message appeared, never retraining the belt, and getting over 17,000 km (10,600 miles) on the new belt without a problem.
This procedure will require the computer system from a Aprilia / Piaggio dealer. It is a critical step that if skipped, could eventually result in a premature notice of belt change being needed by the TCU. If that notice is ignored, the TCU will eventually lock the motorcycle in Rain mode. The potentiometer reset operation must be done when any component of the transmission is removed or replaced.
The reason why retraining is done at the end is due to manufacturing tolerances of the belt and account any wear on the system. This then tells the TCU where the correct positions are for manually selected ratios of the CVT and where “first” and “top” gear are. It will also maximize the life of the new belt. So if the new belt is slightly thinner than the old one (for example) the system will post a belt replacement warning early if it hasn’t been retrained as it will be working on the previous settings.
The following are notes for the technician performing the retraining.
All errors must be cleared from the ECU.
The motorcycle must be on a center stand or paddock stand
The side stand must be up.
Be aware that the power will be sent to the rear wheel during retraining.
Connect Navigator or Axone, or PADS
Torque
Transmission Cover