San Gimignano/Saint Gimignano

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Cinque Terre/Five Lands

Tour Day 5: An Unexpected Side Trip

The rains started again today, but not where we were starting from in Volterra. Instead, there were torrential downpours in Cinque Terre. Our plans for a walking tour of Monterroso al Mare were moot. We were given the choice and voted as a group to spend the afternoon elsewhere that is not on the normal tour itinerary: San Gimignano, the Medieval Manhattan! This hillside town is known for its Medieval towers and white wine (Vernaccia di San Gimignano). There were originally 72 towers standing, though 14 remain today. While Rick doesn't seem to be as much of a fan of this town as the other Tuscan hill towns in the most recent guidebook, I found it delightful. We were free to explore on our own, so I broke away from the group for most of the time to recharge my introvert battery.

It was market day, so food trucks, produce stands, and flea markets were set up throughout the town's square. I made my way up to the hilltop views at the Rocca of Montestaffoli where you can see the entire countryside in all of its Tuscan glory. I met a lovely artist on the way up to the top and purchased a watercolor painting. These are lovely souvenirs that you will remember for a lifetime and one I have hung in my home as a reminder of the New Zealander ex-pat who painted it and my time in San Gimignano. I then went onto Duomo di San Gimignano/La Collegiata. The frescos unexpectedly took my breath away in ways the Sistine Chapel did not (don't tell Michelangelo!). They were vibrant and covered all but the floors. Stories of both the Old and New Testaments were prolific and recognizable. The Duomo (the Italian word for church or cathedral) was reverently silent and I found it restorative after spending 4 days in Rome and a busy day in Volterra.

The frescos in this church are the most striking that I saw outside of those on the ceiling of St. Peter's Basilica (Vatican). The blues were vividly blue in the low-lit interior. Everything but the floors and pillars were covered in images of both the Old and New Testament. It was a delight to determine which panel belonged to which Bible passage. Layers were seen upon layers display these different hallmarks of the Christian faith for those who would not have been able to read Scripture.

The group regathered and then drove to Monterroso al Mare, the largest of the five Cinque Terre cities. It is also the only one you can drive to the edge of the city limits. All other transportation is via train, boat, or your own two feet! This makes Cinque Terre a bit unaffected by the trappings of modern technology. Though you can pay for things with your credit card, you will find the cities very walkable without any vehicles in town.

Tour Day 5: Arrival in Monterroso al Mare

So far on the trip, I had experienced planes and automobiles, but no trains. Today would change that for the full planes, trains, and automobiles experience (okay, not the difficult travel parts of the movie, but it still made me smile). On the drive to the train station, we passed by the mountains where Michelangelo himself picked out the marble he used to carve his masterpiece sculptures. We had a short wait at the train station having just missed the last one. I found the trains easy to navigate in this location, though do expect the Cinque Terre trains to follow the time table to the exact minute as you might in other parts of the world. October brings turbulent seas to the area, so the waves crashing along the steep cliffs precluded us from using the boat/ferry system, but it made for spectacular views at this UNESCO location. The bus may not deliver you to the door in Monterroso al Mare due to road restrictions, but the walk is worth it!

We arrived to our hotel rooms just in time for the rain to start...and it was a torrential downpour. This is when we were all glad for our rain jackets! We quickly made our way to the restaurant for a dinner of a seafood pot, veal, or vegetarian option. We had our first pesto (interestingly, less thick from what we are used to in the US with a higher olive oil level) and focaccia bread, both of which were first created in Cinque Terre. Buon appetito a tutti! (Enjoy your meal, everyone!)

I slept soundly, lulled to sleep by the heavy rains and the knowledge that I was going to partake in one of my favorite things to do on international trips: take pictures of the sunrise.

Andiamo a Esplorare Cinque Terre!