If you don’t have a 3D printer, don't worry, these BRB's are available in our shop.

This adapter fits around our blue slide valve (included in the CAR v2.2 launcher kit) to turn it into a BRB.  Who doesn't like to hit a BRB to launch a rocket?  Simply lift up to reset and prepare for the next launch.  Base now has 3 holes for standard drywall screws if you want to secure the BRB down to a table or other surface.

Thingiverse files available here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2982226

Youmagine files available here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/big-red-button-brb-air-rocket-works

Order the elbow fitting from McMaster – Part Number 50785K43 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#50785k43/=1dhju63), Download and 3D print the parts.  Note there are two files, one for 3mm filament and one for 1.75mm filament, depending on your printer.   It is designed to use lengths of cut filament as pins to hold the parts together.

Gather up your parts, assembly instructions below:

Step 1: Remove the Schrader valve adapter from the end of the slide valve.  Clean and re-wrap the threads with teflon tape.  Thread into elbow fitting and tighten. 

2. Wrap the threads of the elbow fitting with teflon tape.  Assemble into BRB body and dry fit washer in orientation shown.  Apply superglue, and apply pressure. 

3. Thread the elbow fitting into the end of the slide valve and tighten.  Install the slide valve into the base.  Slide in the retainer and align the holes.  Insert length of filament and trim flush. 

4. Cut two short lengths of filament to act as alignment pins.  Insert into holes in BRB body, and dry fit cap.  Apply superglue, and apply pressure. 

5. Use a sharpie to highlight the text if desired.  Attach a bike pump, and you are Ready To Launch!

Three screw holes are provided in the base to allow mounting if desired.

Now you are ready to LAUNCH!

We offer two different launch angle protractors, a 3D printed/laser cut option and a DIY 3D printed version.  Either design is easily added to our v2.2 launcher as shown in the assembly video on the lower left.

Laser cut protractor and 3D printed mount:

We are selling these easy to attach laser cut protractor attachments in our shop tab here.

To install:

1. Loosen the wing nuts and slide the aluminum tank out of the base.

2. Slide the red pointer over the tank and onto the body of the QEV valve housing.

3. Slide the laser cut protractor and support over the tank, and up against the red pointer.

4. Install the tank back under the U-Bolt until the back of the protractor support contacts the plywood.

5. Orient and install the wedge up into the tapered notch in the protractor support and gently tap into place to lock it in.

Fully 3D printed:

If you have a 3D printer, you can download the models to 3D print this accessory for the Compressed Air Rocket Launcher v2.2.  There are only three parts to print, and no tools or fasteners are needed for assembly.  We suggest a dark color for the pointer and a light color for the protractor.  Note the graduations and numbers of the pictured protractor were darkened with a fine point sharpie.

Thingiverse files here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2639573

Youmagine files available here:  https://www.youmagine.com/designs/protractor-angle-gauge-for-air-rocket-works-compressed-air-rocket-launcher-car-v2-2

Below is how to orient and install the dual angle wedge:

There are the three parts that assemble to make the CARB Compressed Air Rocket Bounce recovery.  The Foam Nose, the plastic Body Tube and the Sticker Fins. You will need to add the superglue. We recommend Loctite Super Glue Professional Liquid, available at hardware stores, Lowes & Home Depot. 

1. Installation of the nosecone is a bit tricky.  You may want to practice pushing and twisting in the nosecone BEFORE you apply any superglue.  You will need to do this in one quick motion, and there is no going back once you start. 

2. Apply super glue all the way around the base of the nosecone. 

3. Very important!  This will need to be done in one quick inserting and twisting motion. 

4. Sticker Fins - Start by using scissors to trim off the white material above and below the sticker.  Do not peel off the backing yet. 

5. With the backing in place, fold and crease the sticker backward toward the backing in three places, along the black dashed lines.  Aligning the just cut edges helps keep the folds perpendicular to the cut edges.

6. Fold and crease the sticker forward towards the sticker side in six places along the solid black lines.

7. Start peeling one end of the backing.  Align the bottom of the fins (with the smaller white triangles) closest to the bottom of your rocket.

8. Carefully work your way around, sticking the two red rectangular areas to the body, and doubling up the sticker to create the second and third fins. 

9. The two ends of the sticker should meet and align.  Double check the straightness of the fins.  The adhesive can be forgiving if you need to tweak the alignment. Trim off the 3 large white triangles and the three small white triangles. 

Tools/Supplies Required:

• Super Glue, We recommend Loctite Super Glue Professional Liquid, available at hardware stores, Lowes & Home Depot. 

• Medium grit sandpaper (150-400 grit)

• Spring clamp, quick grip style clamp or vise

• Pliers, preferably needle nose

• Stapler – optional - one that will hinge open for tacking works best

• Cardboard

• Fine piece of wire, or small paper clip

• Length of bendable wire for holding wings at launch - an old wire coat hanger works great.

Kit of parts:

1. Fuselage Assembly: Locate the Left Fuselage, Right Fuselage, and the two short plastic Pins.

2. Push the two pins into the holes in the flat face of one of the fuselage halves.  Dry fit the two halves together, making sure to align the pins in their proper holes, and making sure that the two halves seat together completely.  If they do not, shorten the pins slightly.  Pull the fuselage halves apart, and apply super glue across the flat faces of the fuselage halves.  Align and clamp the Right Fuselage to the Left, and allow the glue to cure.  Once dry, if any glue is visible in the large hole, clean out the hole of any glue using a piece of rolled up sandpaper. 

3. Assemble the Wing Pivot - Next, you will want to test fit the wing pivot in the hole.  Ensure that the wing pivot rotates freely without any binding.  Sand down the outer faces of the wing pivot if needed.

4.  Assemble the Body Tube to the Fuselage - Dry fit the rear cylindrical section of the fuselage into the body tube.  It should be snug, but not too tight.  If there are any sharp edges at the glue joint between the fuselage halves from step 2, sand them smooth.  Glue the assembled fuselage to the body tube using superglue.  I like to apply it to the small diameter at the rear of the fuselage in a zig-zag pattern, and install the fuselage into the body tube with a twisting motion.  Work quickly, you only have a second or two before the glue sets up.

5. Apply more super glue in the same pattern to the base of the foam nose, and install in the front of the fuselage.

6. Sticker Fins - Start by using scissors to trim off the white material above and below the sticker.  Do not peel off the backing yet. 

7. With the backing in place, fold and crease the sticker backward toward the backing in three places, along the black dashed lines.  Aligning the just cut edges helps keep the folds perpindicular to the cut edges.

8. Fold and crease the sticker forward towards the sticker side in six places along the solid black lines.

9. Start peeling one end of the backing.  Align the bottom of the fins (with the smaller white triangles) closest to the bottom of your rocket.

10. Carefully work your way around, sticking the two red rectangular areas to the body, and doubling up the sticker to create the second and third fins. 

11. The two ends of the sticker should meet and align.  Double check the straightness of the fins.  The adhesive can be forgiving if you need to tweak the alignment.  Trim off the 3 large white triangles and the three small white triangles. 

12. Wing Assembly - Use the sandpaper to round the leading and trailing edges of the wings.  This will help prevent cracks and to improve the aerodynamics.  Align the notch in the wing reinforcement with the notch in the balsa wing.  Dry fit the wing reinforcements over the base edges of the wings as shown.  

13. You must leave a channel along the base of the wing for the wing pivot wire to pivot freely.  Apply superglue to the areas of the wing covered by the wing reinforcements, and slide them into place.  It may help to use the wing wire at this stage:

14. Now, you need to add the staple that will act as an anchor for the rubber band.  The accurate location of this staple is crucial for the proper function of the wings. Newer kits have these holes laser cut, and staples are included in the kit.  

NOTE: Older kits will require printing out a paper PDF template that shows where the staple needs to be located.

Install the staples through the holes in the wings from the underside and glue the spine of the staple to the underside of the wing.  

NOTE: You want mirror images of the wings - one left, one right.

15. Once the glue has cured, flip the wings over and bend the staple leg nearest to the middle of the wing down flat to the surface.  Cover this leg with super glue.  Also apply superglue to the base of leg of the staple that is standing straight up.  Once the glue has cured, bend a small hook into the staple leg, with the point of the hook aiming towards the angle in the front of the wing.

16.  Bend the Pivot Wire - Starting halfway down the length of the 9” wire, using needle nose pliers, form a gentle radius in the wire that matches the outer diameter of the body tube.

17. The legs of the wire should be parallel to one another, and roughly equal in length – they don’t have to be perfect, they will be trimmed later.  As shown in the picture above, grip the wire just below the midline of the tube.  Make an approximate 100° bend in each leg of the wire.

18. Assemble the moving parts to the Fuselage - Insert the rubber band through the upper tube-like hole in the fuselage.  If needed, a short length of small gage wire or a small paperclip can be bent in a “U” and used to thread the rubber band through the tube.

19. With the wing pivot, installed in the fuselage, align the notches in the wing reinforcements, with the holes in the wing pivot.  Ensure the hooks formed by the staples are facing away from the body of the plane.  Slide the bent wing pivot wire along the base of each wing, starting at the rear of the wings.  It should slide along the base edge of the wings, through the holes in the wing pivot, and out the leading edge of the wing.  This may take a couple tries to get it seated, and sometime an assistant helps.  Pivot the wings to ensure smooth operation.  Mark the excess wire flush to the front edge of the wings, and trim to length.

20. Stretch the rubber band and hook each end of the band to the formed staple hook on each wing.  Careful, as you can easily pull the rubber band out one side of the body.  You should now be able to test the folding action of the wings.  When released, the wings will hinge forward on the pivot wire, and then rotate on the plastic pivot into gliding position.  Ensure they open quickly, evenly and smoothly.  If one side opens faster than the other, equalize the tension in the rubber band between the fuselage and the staple on each wing.  When you ”pluck” the rubber band like a guitar string, the sound should be about the same on each side, indicating equal tension.

21. Check the angles of the wings in the deployed position.  The angle of attack can be adjusted by altering the two 100° bends in the wing pivot wire.  The dihedral angle should be correct as supplied, but can be altered by adding tape or thin shims to the top of the wing where the wing pivot contacts the wing reinforcement at the base of each wing.  Greater dihedral angle makes the plane more steady, but reduces lift.  3° to 6° usually works well for this plane.

22. Balancing, and Tuning - We carefully weigh and pair similar wings, however due to varying densities throughout balsa wood, it is important that the ARG be balanced left to right.   To do this, simply invert the plane and balance it so it can roll side to side on your fingers.  If the plane always rotates so one wing is lower than the other, that lower wing is slightly heavier than the other.  Pieces of tape can be added to the tip of the lighter wing tip, until the plane balances evenly.  This will help the plane fly straight and true.  If you are flying your ARG in a smaller field or park, you can purposely weight one wing tip to intentionally upset this balance.  This will cause the ARG to spiral down to the ground, and not drift too far from the launch site.

23. If the ARG is to be used on a windier day, a second rubber band can be added to increase the opening power of the wings.  This will cause the wings to deploy slightly sooner at a lower altitude, but will help prevent the wind from causing the plane to tumble or spin without opening its wings fully.  Also, as the rubber band gets old and tired, it should be replaced to ensure proper wing operation.  For storage, it is helpful to unhook the rubber band from the wings to prevent it from stretching.

Your Air Rocket Glider is complete!

Launching - The ARG v2.0 launches from the standard 1/2” NPT launch tube.  The piece of wire that holds the wings folded before launch can be made from an 18” length of wire coat hanger, copper wire, etc.   Bend as shown in the picture below.  Alternately, a 3D printable version is available here.