Just southeast of Moab, UT is a fantastically well-hidden mountain range that supplies any desert lover with the occassional taste of the mountains. Steve Hawkins floated the idea of completing what's known as the La Sal Skyline Traverse sometime in the Spring of 2022. He first came across the idea when browsing a blog post from Jared Campbell. The idea is to complete all the peaks in the range that rise above 12,000ft of elevation. Our plan was to close the loop, which nearly doubles the distance and adds an additional 5,000ft of gain. On June 10th we headed out from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon (where we both resided) with our sights set for Moab.
We arrived late in the evening and parked at La Sal Pass very close to Medicine Lake. We were the only car parked at the trailhead and parking seemed ample. We hit the sack as soon as possible in order to get an early start the following morning. The next day, we woke up around 05:00 and started preparing for the big day. We only had guesses as to how long this day was going to be. We planned for some route finding, some insecure terrain, and some other unspecified delays. We set out on the Burlfriends Trail at 05:48, heading for our first destination, Mount Tukuhnikivatz, or, 'Tuk' as some refer to it.
Steve (pictured) and I set out on the Burlfriends Trail. Mount Peale is seen in the initial approach.
The trail winds to the West and begins approaching 'Tuk' as the sun just begins to hit the peaks for the day.
Eventually the Trail dumps you out on the Saddle between 'Tuk' and Mount Peale. 'Tuk' (pictured) contains some snow, but nothing problematic.
The final climb to 'Tuk' from he saddle is easy and straightforward. Pictured is Steve as we make the final push. This was a fantastic peak to start out with because it's views are some of the best of Canyonlands and the surrounding area.
Although we didn't know it yet, this was the easiest summit of the entire day (in my opinion). If you haven't been to these mountain prior, be aware that they are all how I would describe as 'crumbly'. That being said, after this summit was where Steve and I parted from any formal trail, until we would be done with the mountain section in the North many hours later.
If you choose to continue with the full traverse, the point of no return comes early. From Tuk you can see where the whole day will take you, and if you're not feeling up to the task, it's far better to quit right here than anywhere else. After all, just following Tuk comes maybe the hardest part of the whole day.
Above is the view from the top of 'Tuk' looking West. Your first reward of the day is a fantastic one, and just the tip of the iceberg!
As you leave Tuk and start approaching the routes high point (Mount Peale), you cross gentle alpine field that is probably the mst pleasant part of the day. However, that pleasant feel is soon replaced with perhaps some trepidation when you hit the infamous, Razor Fang.
The Razor Fang stands between Mount Tuk and and Mount Peale and provdes an exciting class 3/4 traverse. This is where the 'crumbliness' of these mountains becomes annoying. Normally a scramble like this would be fun, but this, just frankly, is not.
This is the beginning section of the Razor Fang. You can spot Steve just below center in the blue shirt looking for a way up. I've heard multiple different approaches to the Razor Fang. However, the two dominating approaches are (1) stay on directly on the ridge and scramble your way through the loose talus 'pancake' rocks. These rocks are unstable, be cautious as you put your weight on each step. Or (2) hang just to the right (southeast) of the ridge and navigate your way through (really) loose, steep terrain (though not scrambling).
Steve and I were initially planning on the first option. However, After the initial climb (pictured), we unconsciously gravitated to the right and before we knew what was happening, we were committed to option 2. This route was very steep with loose terrain (common theme throughout the day).
Once you navigate through the Razor Fang, it's a straightforward and easy way to the summit of Mount Peale, the highpoint in the journey. This view is looking back at what you've done thus far, Mount Tuk pictured in center.
In between Peale and Mellenthin is Mount Laurel, which is a steep speed-bump in order to get to the main attraction. The best option is to attack Laurel head-on and got straight up. Don't be tempted by the visible routes created by mountain goats, these are loose and quite terrifying.
Mount Mellenthin looks like a beast from any perspective. However, from this point of reference there is a well-travellBed path directly to the summit. The path cuts to the left of a rocky outcropping and goes straight up to the summit, making sure to avoid any twists and turns.
Once at the summit of Mellenthin, you'll want to descend down the right (northeast) shoulder. It feels like a long descent, which of course it is, but eventually you break into the tree line. This is where you'll be able to get water for the first time since you set off on the journey. There's a nice water flow if you can find it to filter from.
As you can see, the descent of Mellenthins northeast shoulder is not-technical, but arduous. You can see the road below, and that is what you're aiming for.
As Steve and I were descending we heard behind and to our right a large rockslide occurring. This was on a steeper section than we were on, and we couldn't see any of it. However, it's a sobering reminder that this none of these mountains are solid rock, and you have to know when to test rocks for their stabilization before just launching right into it.
Once you've had your fill, continue straight down until you hit Dark Canyon Lake Rd (pictured right). This is a beautiful section of road that affords a refreshing section of flats through meadows for a nice change. If you're feeling like you have the energy, this is a great section to make up some time. You'll hit some ponds and trickles along this road, so if you didn't manage to grab some water prior, don't stress!
The road you're on will technically turn into Geyser Pass Rd. After a little while you will take a left on Burro Pass Rd. And this is where the northern portion of the mountains begin.
Continue on this road and you'll eventually hit the beginning of the famed 'Whole Enchilada' mountain bike trail. There really isn't a given place to start going up, but essentially just eyeball the best place to ascend Mount Tomasaki.
Pictured left is the beginning of the brutal climb up to Tomasaki (seen in the foreground). This grassy section offers a nice alternative to bushwhacking. This is a grind of a push, and it feels great to be at the summit of Tomasaki.
Once done with Tomasaki, we started working our way northwest towards Manns Peak. Halfway to Manns Peak is where I noticed one of my shoes had it's side completely torn open, and snow was starting to get into it. I would have loved for a little duct tape at this moment, but alas.. decisions, decisions..
The Northern Mountains just felt like one big slog. One uphill climb after another. Pictured above is the summit of Green Mountain and an old weather station still standing. To be honest I have no idea if this tin structure and pole still serve a purpose, but it's always neat to run into these features in the mountain. This general area (along with the beginning, and on the road) is really where we saw the only people all day, and they were few in numbers.
At 12,336 ft. Mount Waas was our final big mountain, as well as the highest point in Grand County, Utah. You also summited the high point of San Juan County earlier with summit of Peale! Something about the look of Mt. Waas from Green Mountain just looked a little intimidating. From here you can see the switchbacks on the scree that take you up to the summit. These switchbacks are quite nice, and ascending Waas from the saddle seemed to go by quite fast actually.
At the summit of Waas make sure you take a look back, as this is the highest point in the Northern Mountains, and this view allows you to see much of the monster day you've had already (pictured below).
Steve and I felt good that we just had castle and la sal left, as these looked relatively straightforward, compared to what we've been doing. After Waas you can really see the end (of the mountains) in sight, and so the two of scurried over and got the other two mountains done quickly, nothing super eventful with either of them to be honest.
(From Waas) Above in the foreground you can see Tuk by the identifiable pointy Little Tuk to it's immediate right. Melenthin is center in the foreground, the one with the visible snow couloirs. Peale is behind and to the left of Melenthin. As you can see, this is maybe the most photogenic peak of the day, as you essentially can see every major mountain that you summited.
As Steve and I ascended la sal peak (quite frankly the easiest peak of the day - I think we probably summitted in about 6-7mins from the saddle), we took in the views of castle valley, Moab, canyonlands, and all of the beautiful red rock surrounding us.
I snapped this photo wanting to captivate our achievement, exhaustion, and eagerness to be off these mountains. It was a big day done, except it wasn't done. Neither of us wanted to talk about it, but we both knew that we wouldn't get back to the car until late in the night..
(From La Sal) Above you can see the view West from the summit of the final peak.
Descending La Sal is a bit challenging. There seems to be an (obvious) consensus that of the two descent paths. One goes directly down the shoulder from the summit, and the other descends the gulch from the saddle of La Sal and Castle. Steve and I took a look at the shoulder and it struck some fear in our hearts, so we opted for the saddle route.
This starts off easy, but gradually the loose scree starts up again, and it becomes very slow going. Steep, scree, and always making sure the rocks are stable - this is what the entirety of the descent is.
Eventually we hit quite an impressive waterfall (not really a waterfall, but the runoff is impressive). **Fill up water here** Steve and I made the mistake of not filling up here, and we paid the price for it later. Eventually Steve and I found our way on the Bachelor Basin Trail which would be our home for the next many hours.
We started heading southbound and we got somewhat turned around in Bachelor Basin. This area is very helpful to have a GPS device (Gaia for example) to make sure you're on the right path. I don't recall there being good trail markings, compounded with the fact that there was still snow on the ground, partially obstructing the trail (keep in mind this was in July).
We quickly hustled our way to Miners Basin where we could fill up water, and about this time is when the sun officially set. In some ways this felt like a relief. We were rushing to try to get progress done before this happened. However, once the inevitable did happen, it was a just one big shrug, and we put the head lamps on, ate some more food, and headed out into the night. Apologies that I don't have any more photos from this point on, but I didn't see much point seeing as it was completely dark outside.
The next checkpoint is 'Warner Campground' ~3.5 miles away. Again, more places to fill up water here if needed at Warner Lake.
Up next is 'Oowah Lake', less than 2 miles away (more fill up for water if needed). As an aside, although this return journey took many hours due to exhaustion that was setting in I did enjoy the shorter distances between campgrounds, lakes, and roads, to make it feel like we were making progress :)
From here it's 2.5 miles to the forest service road '50071'. Halfway there, there is a junction that will take you east to 'Geyser Pass' **do not go east, just keep going straight** Once we got to the road, for whatever reason, we got a little turned around staying on the trail at this juncture (probably due to snow and what looked like construction). Just keep in mind that you will come to an official trail starting point from the road, with signage and a maps + information, so just keep your eyes peeled for that.
From here it's ~4 miles back to the dirt road. I'll tell it to you straight, this sections sucks. Not only does it feel like it goes on forever, but toward the end of this section the trail really stops becoming a trail. Once you get to this little 'pond scum' type marsh, you really have to just get creative and hope you find a social trail that sends you in the right direction. You're not too far from the road, so just take the path of least resistance. Also, there were a couple cows standing in this pond scum staring at us in the middle of the night that scared the bejesus out of us (me).
Finally you've reached the road, but alas.. you still have over 3 miles, and ~1,500 ft. of gain to get back to your car. This is about the time that I started hallucinating very mildly. Grind it out, start thinking about the food and drink that you will get to eat to motivate you to get back.
If you'll remember, Steve and I started at 05:48 in the morning, and we arrived at the car ~04:00 in the morning, the next day. Around 22 hours was our elapsed time for completing this monstrous day. One of the biggest time consumers of the day was the return journey (18 miles, and ~5,000 ft of gain). Normally, this would be a big day by itself. The problem is, you just destroyed the entire La Sal Range.
This was an epic journey, but Steve and I agreed that if we ever did something like this again, it would be best to either get a ride from the northern terminus back to the start, or park a car there for the return journey. That being said, the La Sal mountain range is criminally underrated, most likely due to it's proximity to Moab and the surrounding natural beauty. Enjoy it out there, be safe, tell someone your plan, and soak it all up! Click below on the link to check out my strava file if you want to download the GPX file!