Shabaka Training, Hofuf, Eastern Province, Saudi Arabia
In July 2014, I took some days in-lieu from Disney English, and I applied via Dave's ESL Cafe to a job posting. Preston Dixon gave me the job during the interview. Within the month, we left Chengdu and my new employer flew us to Bahrain where we got visas to enter the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. We did not know it entirely at the time, but those eight years may be the highest standard of living we will ever know.
During my tenure as an English instructor in King Faisal University's Preparatory Year Deanship, I helped write accreditation documents, built new curriculum and assessments, managed people and data as Shabaka's (شبكة) PYD contract got renewed time and again. I trained some of the brightest young minds I will ever meet: men who spoke two languages better than most people speak one, leaders of the future Arab world; doctors, engineers, dentists, pharmacists. Covid intervened and disrupted our shared intercultural experience toward the end of my stay, but I still admire these Saudi men more than most people I will ever meet.
Expat teachers are a diverse bunch. Some are on working holiday. Others are committed career professionals. Over 8 years in Hofuf, I met, lived and worked beside about as many different kinds of people as there are in this world. We shared time, meals, ideas, and parts of ourselves even though everybody was constantly changing, adapting, predicting and reacting to a world in flux.
Saudi Arabia changed during our residence. King Abdullah's death brought in new leadership, and in time various rules and regulations changed to better serve Saudis who are, on average, young compared to mean age of citizens in other countries. Women began to drive, travel without male chaperones, and eventually lift the veil and drop the abaya if they so chose. My wife competed in the first women's running event in history and won third place!
We started going to Bahrain on weekends because they had cinemas, which had been banned next door for most of our stretch in Saudi. Then we found the Bahrain Road Runners club. After the 2021 Grand Prix race, I looked out over the bay at the skyline and said to Sangthong, "It's almost worth staying another year in Saudi just for these races." She took home more trophies and prize money than me, but even just as a finisher, those Friday morning runs were the stuff of legends around our house.
Living and working with the same people is not for everyone. In fact, it's probably not for anyone all the time. Then again, there is a sense of community, of responsibility toward one another, and a shared purpose that develops over years in a closed social network where everybody is contributing both at home and at work. Nobody can run off and hide on their private property at work. Psychological barriers have to come down at least a notch when there is nothing but thin walls and silence dividing personal and professional. What people say and do at work and home affects the other. This can work out very badly sometimes, but on the other hand, it can increase sincerity among colleagues whose genuine character shows due to proximity and exposure before peers. Being far away from home, in a relatively restrictive legal environment when it comes to nightlife and romantic freedoms, the odd ISIS attack just down the street, sandstorms, 130 degree heat -- these are not the things everybody dreams of, but with good attitudes, good food, and a little effort, my Shabaka people gave me some incredible memories.
Sometime in our first year, New Zealander, Dan Bond suggested Sangthong started cooking lunches for teachers, and Nook's Kitchen opened. Over eight years, she developed an original menu of Thai favorites, plus spaghetti and crispy chicken, all halal since that's the only kind of groceries available in Saudi Arabia. She woke up at 4am to start preparing and cooking box lunches for teachers on the 630 and 8am buses, then turned to lunches for the kids' compound daycare, and ended the afternoons delivering plate dinners to apartments. Sangthong worked seven days a week, sometimes sixteen or more hours a day between preparation, cooking, delivery, and cleanup. Our Saturdays were spent going to three supermarkets and the local fresh veggie market, haggling over bulk prices for ingredients that we could hardly keep in stock. By the time we made our exit, we had two refrigerators and a freezer, plus shelves in our apartment that were constantly being used and restocked through the weeks as hungry teachers and kids ate no fewer than ten thousand chickens, acres of cabbages, groves of coconut trees, and who knows how many paddies of Thai hom mali rice. To say that she was welcome on the compound more than me is something of an understatement, and who can argue with all that great Thai flavour?
Free to write at home
During my tenure at King Faisal University, I helped with accreditation writing and editing. As an instructor and mid-level manager, I also built quite a bit of the program's curriculum. Being an energetic sort of fellow, I continued with writing in my spare time. My main research position was in Thailand with Palapan Kampan at National Institute of Development Administration, but since I was stationed in Hofuf, KSA, I found opportunities at the university to continue work regarding foreign language classroom anxiety.
Peer-review is a difficult process. Sometimes reviewers are harsh. They almost never give specific guidance - something I've made certain to do when I review articles. The 2017 article was accepted by IEJ, the same journal as my 2014 article on a similar topic in Thailand. I was unable to find an outlet for the 2019 multidimensional study, and I suspected a main reason was that conclusions supported a potential reduction in foreign workers in English language training, which is never popular among industry professionals who want more jobs, higher pay, and fewer employer demands. Nonetheless, I could not help but feel the research was either influential within the Kingdom or accurate in predicting the future of Preparatory Year English Programs which have lost some funding and support in years since.
In those years in Saudi, like all my years abroad, I thought, said, wrote whatever I wanted, and nobody ever tried to stop me. In fact, I have remarked on more than one occasion that I had more latitude to speak and write abroad, because I knew what the banned topics were, which coincidentally I did not have much interest in discussing, and there was never threat of tortfeasor private abuse of public right. By comparison, at home in the USA, I know the government is not going to arrest or significantly threaten me for anything I communicate, but there is much less comparable sense of security with regard to employment or academic exclusion. Oh, the irony...