I love the FX30, it's a great little camera and it produces a lovely image. But one thing a few have noticed is that if you shoot at 100fps or 120fps it can be a little more noisy than it is at other frame rates.
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I shot some footage with my iPhone 8+ at 120fps 1080p. When I drop the footage onto my Sequence it plays back very choppy and too fast. Seems like it's playing back in 30 fps. I've googled everything I can think of but no advice so far has fixed this. I've interpreted all of the clips to 24fps and 120fps and neither changed anything.
I've made multiple projects with my iPhone at 120fps using PP and all of them were completely fine. The footage played back at 120fps super slow-mo. I didn't do anything different this time but now I'm having this problem.
Doing this interpretation method, you can use slow-mo or normal speed and can get your adjustment layer to match your source sequence. (note in the video I'm using 100fps footage so I'm interpreting to 25, you're using 120fps so you would interpret to 24 or 30.
Phones record in VBR which NLE's notoriously have a hard time using. First, I'd try transcoding to a CBR intermediate format. Otherwise, bring your footage into a new sequence and check that your sequence settings match your source (or your preferred output destination format) and interpret as needed.
When I added an adjustment layer to my sequence, it would only allow me to choose 23.97 fps; so I am assuming PP thinks that my footage is at 23.97fps. This would make sense why it's so fast and choppy.
I don't believe so. The fastest non-high frame rate would be 60 (59.94) fps. I know that the EOS C70 can capture audio to a separate file alongside 120 fps recordings. So if you really wanted to, you could create a 120 (119.88) fps timeline in your post editor, drop in the 120 fps footage and the audio and then export.
I believe you're wrong about the Sony -- no camera can record 120 in what you call "real time", because the timecode format only has 2 digits for the frame number, so there can't be more than 100 frames in a second. This sucks, but it's part of the basic standard for video formats.
Hence, all the cameras I know of fake it. They can record 120 -- the R5C certainly can -- but the video has to be tagged as something else, like 24 FPS. Of course this is a bodge, and of course the camera companies don't tell you that, they sell it as a feature. Canon calls this "Slow and Fast", Sony calls it "Slow and Quick".
But the bottom line is that it doesn't matter what the video file is tagged at. It still contains video frames captured at a rate of 120 per second. So, let's say you use "Slow and Fast", recording at 120, but with the output video tagged as 24. In your editor, create a timeline at 120 FPS, drop your video in there, and speed it up 5 times. This cancels out the bodge, and you will have genuine 120FPS video. This will work for the R5C, and should be the same for Sony.
Here's hoping Canon listens our feedback and improves SF Mode on the R5C! Ian's reviews are right on and I still would choose it over Sony anyway as the best all-around hybrid.
One thing that is not mentioned here that I find very useful in sports is the new Digital zoom feature in video which also works in SF Mode (eg 120fps). EXTREMELY Useful in sports. (Largest glass I have is the RF70-200 2.8L).... then on the photo side its 45mp which gives you a ton of room to crop.
I am however finding myself shooting more at 60fps because of the lack of oversampling and focus options in SF mode and my need to punch in for social/highlight cuts. Once you see the difference; it's frustrating that SF mode cannot support those. I really would like to shoot more at 120 for sports.
That said it's still the best Hybrid out there and really appreciated Canon's latest FW update.
PS: Don't forget it also has a fan; Can't tell you how many time my Sony friends overheated this summer or were limited to shooting clips while I just keep it powered and running. no issues for me at all in direct sunlight 95+F temps.
You don't understand how to make slow motion. 120fps is what's called overcranked. You edit the clip in the normal frame, 25 or 29.97. You put your 120 material in the project and use retime>conform. This will make slow motion by putting one frame of your 120fps material on one frame of your 25fps project. Try it.
first, thanks for your answer. Sorry but my english is far to be perfect, and i'm not sure what overcranked means. To make slow motion movies, i want to film in 120fps, so that, when I will reduce it to 30, it will be slower. But as I saw that FCPX could't manage more than 60 fps, I'm worried that it deletes half pictures, then, reducing my project to 30 fps, the movie will be just half slower, and not four times slower. Am I clear? I'm a beginner so I Might not understand the way it works.
You're thinking about it backwards. If you make a project at 29.97 and place a 120fps clip into the project, it will still play at normal speed; the 120 squeezed done to 29.97. When you set the clip back to play frame for frame by using the retiming menu to conform the clip, the video will be slowed down. You do not want to put the 120 media in a 120 project and then slow it down. That completely defends the purpose over overcranking, recording at an abnormally high frame rate.
"Over-cranking" is a term used in film making. In order to make "slow-motion," the camera operator would literally "crank" (turn) the film faster than normal--recording MORE frames per second. When you play the developed (finished) footage at NORMAL (slower) speed (24 to 30 frames per second) the viewer then sees the action as "slow." More frames of action are "squeezed"--so to speak--into a every second of film.
PS: Final Cut Pro X can produce clips that can play back at any frame rate, but it isn't simple to get non-standard rates and pixel dimensions. As others her have said, use a project frame rate between 23.98 and 30 fps.
Hi guys, thanks a lot for your answers. I haven't probably explained very well my problem. I know what is slow motion, and I know that a project in 120 fps is useless. I want to make a project in 30 fps, but with 120 fps movies, so that i can make slowmo. But i found the solution, FCPX can go to 60 fps, if you import a 120 fps movie as en event, it will be ok, but when you will use it in a 30 fps project, it won't be possible. But, in your event, if you choose your video and select "edit in timeline", you'll be able to make slowmo on the video. Then when you put the video in a project, it will be convert in a 30, 60 whatever fps, but it doesn't matter because you'd have already done your slowmo. It's probably ununderstandable for you because trying to explain that with my poor english is very difficult! but thanks to everybody!
I want to have videos play at 120 hz, not just only utilize it for comptuter game rendering. Part what makes the new gopro hero3 black so awesome is 720p120. I want to record in this format, play it back realtime @ 120 hz for super smooth action. I do not want to edit it down to slow mo. This is very difficult, and quicktime player 7 pro seems to be the best tool to crop and splice (I haven't tried playing any 120 fps native gopro files on any 120 hz monitors, don't know if that works with any current players or not), with "add to selection and scale" being very useful.
Saying the eye/brain can't tell above 60 is laughable, take away motion blur (computer games or timelapse) and it's obvious. Playing quake on an old crt I could easily tell 60, 85, and 120 hz apart. move your mouse quick across your screen. if you had enough hz, it wouldn't be a jumpy trail where you see 6 different pointers spaced inches apart, it would be blurred. Motion blur is why movies get by with 24, but if something moves, and you track it with your eye, it's still blurry. I hate motion blur and don't want it in my timelapse projects.
I have made a few timelapses of driving where I speed up footage 10x, each utility pole or tree passing by jumps 3 feet between frames at the edges when it passes by (6 fps sped up to 60 fps). same for cars going other direction. watching at 60 fps you can see this jumpy ghosty effect easily (persistance of vision). to make it go away you either sacrafice image quality and don't give the eye the opportnity to track objects and lose freeze frame detail by using motion blur, or you add more frames. 120 hz would have the poles moving 1.5 feet per frame (still not overlaping itself in frames), and only when you get to 240 hz would the pole move not jump across the screen. I would like playback the same 10x speed driving timelapse on 60 hz, 120 hz, 240 hz, and 480 hz monitors to compare and see if the upper limits for my eyes are satisfied by any of those, maybe in a few years. From how 30 and 60 fps look now, I can almost guarantee I could tell 120 and 240 hz apart. Driving timelapse is maybe one of the rare sources that makes this stand out so much, but it's one that annoys me.
No driving ones online yet, but here's one of mine walking the golden gate bridge at 20x. you can see the issues with the cars well on youtubes weak 30 fps. I also wish the auto zoom for stabilization could be turned off in FCPX to make the frame move like in this video ?. web compession is rough on these timelapses too, make sure to view at 720p. 152ee80cbc
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