If you manage a building, run a small business, or oversee a commercial property, you’ve probably heard these two terms tossed around during an upgrade discussion: mag locks and electric strikes. Both are common ways to electronically control doors, and both can work beautifully—when they’re chosen and installed correctly.
But they’re not interchangeable.
A mag lock might be perfect for one entrance and a bad fit for another. An electric strike might be the cleanest solution for many doors, but it’s not always the strongest option in certain environments. Choosing the wrong hardware can lead to daily headaches like doors that won’t release, doors that don’t latch, nuisance alarms, code compliance issues, or frustrated tenants and employees.
This guide breaks down the key differences between mag locks and electric strikes in plain language. You’ll learn how each one works, how they affect safety and code compliance, where each option shines, what common mistakes to avoid, and how to decide what’s right for your specific door.
Note: This article provides general educational information, not legal advice. Local building codes and fire/life-safety requirements can vary by jurisdiction and door type. Always confirm final specifications with a qualified professional.
A mag lock (short for magnetic lock) uses an electromagnet mounted on the door frame and a metal armature plate mounted on the door. When power is applied, the magnet and plate bond tightly, holding the door closed.
Power ON: magnet is energized → door is locked (held shut)
Power OFF: magnet releases → door is unlocked
Mag locks are typically fail-safe: if power is lost, the door unlocks. That can be a safety benefit for emergency egress, but it also means power reliability and proper system design matter.
An electric strike replaces or supplements the door’s strike plate (the part on the frame where the latch catches). When energized, it allows the latch to release so the door can open—while the lockset remains in place.
The door stays mechanically latched
When access is granted, the strike “buzzes” or releases for a few seconds
The user opens the door normally, and then it re-latches
Electric strikes can be fail-secure or fail-safe, depending on the model:
Fail-secure: stays locked during power loss (common for many exterior doors)
Fail-safe: unlocks during power loss (used where required)
Here’s the simplest way to remember it:
Mag lock holds the door shut with magnet force.
Electric strike releases the latch so the door can open.
Everything else—installation, code considerations, reliability, use cases—flows from that.
This is where people often assume mag locks always win because they have big “holding force” numbers (e.g., 600 lb, 1200 lb). But real-world security is more nuanced.
Pros:
high holding strength when mounted correctly
works well on doors where latching hardware is weak or inconsistent
Watch-outs:
if the door/frame flexes, alignment can drift
if the armature plate isn’t mounted properly, holding strength can drop
if power is interrupted, door releases (fail-safe), unless supported by backup power
Pros:
door remains physically latched like a traditional lock
less dependent on perfect magnetic alignment
can be fail-secure, meaning it remains locked during power loss
Watch-outs:
installation must match door type and latch style
misalignment issues can cause intermittent release problems
some door frames require modification to fit the strike properly
Practical takeaway: Both can be secure. The “more secure” choice depends on door type, use case, and whether the system is designed professionally.
For most commercial and multi-tenant buildings, the most important difference isn’t strength—it’s how the door releases for safe exit.
Because a mag lock is holding the door shut electronically (rather than a latch you mechanically retract), most setups require:
a request-to-exit (REX) motion sensor or push-to-exit
integration with fire alarm (so the door releases in an alarm condition)
sometimes additional rules depending on door type and occupancy
This makes mag locks more complex to design correctly.
Because the door is still latched and typical exit devices (like panic bars) can mechanically retract the latch, electric strikes can be simpler from an egress standpoint—especially on doors with panic hardware designed for safe exit.
Real-world guidance: If you’re unsure, ask your installer to explain the full egress and fire-alarm integration plan in plain English. If they can’t, that’s a red flag.
Because most mag locks are fail-safe:
a power outage means the door unlocks
this is why mag locks often need a UPS/battery backup in many commercial settings
If the door must remain secure during outages, you need a plan:
backup power for the lock and controller
clear policy around outage response
A fail-secure strike stays locked when power is out. That’s often preferred for:
exterior doors
high-security areas
doors where you cannot allow “free entry” on power loss
Takeaway: If outage security matters, electric strikes often fit more naturally. If emergency egress is the priority and controlled security is handled by other layers, mag locks can still be appropriate with proper design.
Pros:
often looks more “built-in”
minimal hardware visible beyond the reader and door hardware
works well with many standard commercial doors
Cons:
some frames require cutting or modifications
hollow metal frames are common but still require proper fitting
alignment is crucial
Pros:
can be installed on many door types where cutting the frame is difficult
helpful for glass doors or tricky door setups (when done properly)
Cons:
visible hardware at the top of the door
may require surface wiring/conduit depending on door construction
more components (REX, fire tie-in, etc.) can increase install complexity overall
Aesthetic note: In high-end lobbies or retail storefronts, appearance matters. Strikes often look cleaner. Mag locks can still be neat, but they’re more visually obvious.
Here are common NYC-style door scenarios and which option often fits best.
Often a good candidate for mag locks, especially when latching hardware is weak or inconsistent
But requires correct egress setup and secure mounting
Electric strikes are frequently the cleanest and most reliable solution
Electric strikes often integrate smoothly with the exit device
Mag locks can still work, but the design must satisfy life-safety requirements
Mag locks are sometimes used with specialized brackets
Electric strikes depend on frame design and existing hardware
Both can work, but electric strikes are extremely common for reliable “buzz-in” behavior
Mag locks are sometimes used on high-traffic doors, but must be designed carefully for safe exit and fire integration
familiar “buzz and open” behavior
door generally opens smoothly if aligned well
fewer false “door forced” issues if latch and sensor are set correctly
can feel very secure and solid
if tuned poorly, can create “sticky door” moments (magnet still holding slightly)
relies more on proper sensor setup to avoid nuisance alarms
If your building has constant deliveries: you want the option that opens consistently with minimal fuss. That often favors a properly installed electric strike—but every door is different.
poor armature plate mounting (reduces holding strength)
misalignment from door sag
no backup power (door unlocks during outage)
missing or incorrect egress components
poor wiring protection (especially in high-traffic areas)
Prevention: professional mounting, regular alignment checks, UPS where needed, correct egress design, secure cabling.
strike not matched to latch type
frame cutout done incorrectly
door misalignment causing latch binding
insufficient power supply or wrong voltage
poor latch/closer condition making the door not latch
Prevention: correct strike selection, proper frame prep, door alignment service, correct power sizing, latch/closer tune-up.
It depends, but here are realistic patterns:
often moderate hardware cost
labor depends on frame type and modifications required
fewer add-on components for basic operation
magnet hardware cost varies
can require additional components (REX, door sensor, fire alarm tie-in)
may require more labor for wiring and compliance setup
Bottom line: Sometimes mag locks look cheap upfront, but cost more once you include all required components and proper integration. Strikes are often more straightforward for many doors.
Ask these questions:
Is this door required for emergency egress?
Do we need the door to stay locked during power loss?
What type of door and frame is it? (storefront, hollow metal, glass, etc.)
How many times per day will it be used?
Do we need a clean, low-visibility look?
Is the current latch hardware reliable?
Do we have a fire alarm system that needs integration?
Will we install a UPS/battery backup?
If the door must remain secure during outages, and you have standard latch hardware, electric strikes often win.
If the door hardware is inconsistent, or the door type makes strikes difficult, mag locks may be the better tool—as long as egress and compliance are handled correctly.
In real installations, professionals often mix solutions:
electric strike at the main entry
mag lock at a storefront door where the latch hardware is unreliable
specialty hardware on glass doors
panic hardware integration on emergency exits
A “one size fits all” approach is usually where problems start.
Mag locks hold the door shut magnetically and are typically fail-safe (unlock on power loss).
Electric strikes release the latch and can be fail-secure or fail-safe depending on the model.
Egress, compliance, and reliability are often the deciding factors—not just holding force.
Mag locks may require more components (REX, fire tie-in) for proper life-safety operation.
Electric strikes often feel more “natural” for daily use when the door hardware is solid and aligned.
If you’re choosing between mag locks and electric strikes and want the right hardware for your specific door (not a generic recommendation):
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