0.5x Camera App Download [TOP]

Since the camera is actually not functioning, then this is most likely a hardware issue. You can use this page for information on obtaining service for your iPhone. Having a technician look at your iPhone would be the best next step.

does using a third party app work? i'd try it out if i were you because with something like a third party app, it'll detect the phone you have, not the available hardware on your phone, so lets say you took the ultrawide camera out of the phone some how and went into a third party app, if you select ultrawide in the app it'll just simply crash, some may just show a black screen but most will freeze or crash, try this (using a third party app) and see how it goes, if you want you could ask apple through chat support if they could do an ota (over the air) hardware check (diagnostics test), i'm baffled by the fact that by the sounds of it they didn't do that when you contacted them the first time but this time try contacting them through and after following the steps, if it allows you to start a chat then do so and ask them what i said (do an ota hardware check) and after complying with them with what they ask of you (they may ask you some things like the email associated with your apple id, your serial number, etc), they will ask you to follow some steps in settings and after tapping what they say once they lead you there the test will begin, after the test concludes they will tell you if there are any problems with your device from what they can see and honestly it'll go from there,

0.5x Camera App Download

Download 🔥 https://tinurll.com/2y685S 🔥

if imma be honest, if your a little overwhelmed by all of what im saying basically just click the link i sent and follow the steps, start a chat, and tell them that your ultra wide angle camera in specific isn't showing up in the camera app and you want them to run an over the air diagnostics test and from there things will be guided and smooth, and if you dont want to contact apple about this and have them do a diagnostics test, then you can always download a third party camera app and chose "ultra wide" in that app and see what happens, but honestly i'd suggest just straight up chatting with apple

This reduction lens is designed to couple C-mount cameras with a microscope's ocular tube or photo tube. The male C-mount thread attaches to the camera, and the 23mm tube fits any standard ocular tube with a 23mm, 30mm, or 30.5mm diameter. The 0.5X magnification is ideal for cameras with a 1/2" format sensor, optimizing the field-of-view and sensor coverage.

Code that I wrote is not working to put it to 0.5x zoom. I have tried all the possible combinations of [.builtInTripleCamera, .builtInDualWideCamera, .builtInUltraWideCamera]. The capture device with the device type .builtinUltraWideCamera is not giving 0.5 for minAvailableVideoZoomFactor.

The minimum "zoomFactor" property of an AVCaptureDevice can't be less than 1.0 according to the Apple Docs. It's a little confusing becuase depending on what camera you've selected, a zoom factor of 1 will be a different field of view or optical view angle. The default iPhone camera app shows a label reading "0.5" but that's just a label for the ultra wide lens in relation to the standard camera's zoom factor.

That was the case for me for iPhone 12Pro Max, returning only one device for Back position, reporting type BuiltInWideAngleCamera, but that was just lyes, it was the middle camera, not wide, not telephoto. Dunno why apple devs made it like that, looks like an outdated legacy architecture.

Only recently started getting into astro-imaging (infact it's been less than 12 months since I've owned a telescope!), so a lot of what I've written below might sound nonsensical . I've really had fun with the ZWO ASI224MC and wanted to get wider views of the moon and DSOs as well. I bought a 1.25" 0.5x reducer and then I realized that it puts the focus completely out of whack. The backfocus distance of the camera is 12.5mm. The focal reducers information is here:

the "working distance" of this specific reducer is estimated to be 51mm, i.e., this reducer will provide a reduction of 0.5x when the center of its lens assembly is placed 51mm from the focal plane of the eyepiece or imaging device.

Currently the distance between the camera CCD sensor the focal reducer lens is broken down like this: 12.5mm (camera sensor to the top of 2" ring) + length of the 1.25" nosepiece (I've not measured it yet, but I think it's around 30mm) + 10mm (length of the focal reducer). No spacers are involved at all right now and I'm nowhere near achieving focus. When I play around with it, it feels like to get focus I need to make the focusser travel inwards, more than it's physically capable of doing! Is there any solution to this?

From this middle point, if you move the camera a little closer to the reducer, and the reduction will be less strong. 0.6x, 0.7x .... until right next to the reducer there will barely be any reduction.

And another limitation is aperture: if the angle is too steep, a 1.25" reducer at the end of a 224 camera's nosepiece, could cut the cone of light a little. In those cases, yes, a 2" reducer would be better, but then again it must first be determined whether said 2" reducer can indeed go inside the focuser deep enough for you to reach focus. That will depend on your particular telescope, which you did not specify

That would certainly work, but the focal plane will be so further out of the focuser you're likely to need long extenders to be able to place the camera so further away (I've done it). And your telescope will be working at a slightly smaller aperture (because the secondary mirror, being moved closer to the primary, will miss some of the primary's light and not reflect it to the camera)

I didn't understand completely - could you please elaborate? Specifically around removing the eyepiece adaptors - I don't have a choice there do I? I'll have to use them whenever I use an EP or camera? And does in-focus of 50mm mean I have 50mm to play with in the focusser?

So, you do have a choice. You only need the original adaptors to use the telescope on "vanilla" observing conditions with regular eyepieces.

But when you need 50mm more in-focus (as can happen for using some binoviewers, some coma correctors, some focal reducers or the helical adapter), you can gain those 50mm of in focus by just removing the 2" adapter and inserting your (2") coma corrector, binoviewer or whatnot.

People who own other newtonians often don't have this luxury, and have to resort to "pushing the primary mirror closer to the secondary" (using the collimation screws, or sometimes moving the whole cell) in order to get their gizmos closer to the primary mirror.

Better yet, when 50mm of in-focus is not enough, then there's the binoviewer position of the trusses, which pushes the focal plane by as much as the trusses are collapsed (I think 300mm) which is huge in terms of focal distance, but as far as I know is needed by some big binoviewers that have really long internal light paths.

The skywatcher collapsible is the most "focus friendly" newtonian there is. Take advantage of it.

For EAA, while it's easier with a bullet sized camera, you can probably get some focal reduction using a 2" reducer, a kit of M48 spacers (cheaper on Amazon) and an M48 to T adapter.

Be wary that these SW dobsonians are already sub F5, so you don't really want full 0.5x focal reduction, for you'd then be at F2.5 and that's serious coma territory. I think 0.7x reduction (resulting in ~F3.5 depending on your scope) would be much more effective, and this means spacing the reducer closer to the camera sensor.

As you can see from the above examples, the larger the magnification, the more the subject fills up the frame. However, depending on the size of your subject and your intentions, 0.5x might be more than sufficient!

Soaked in water, the tiny petals on these flowers of an umbrella leaf plant appear translucent. The 0.5x maximum magnification of the RF35mm f/1.8 Macro IS STM allowed me to fill the frame with the flowers and create an impactful shot.

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Anyway, she flipped her phone around, took a photo, and showed us: We all looked small, while the space around us was compressed. Perhaps most notably, her arm looked way longer than it really was. It all clicked: a 0.5 selfie, of course, is a selfie taken with the 0.5x ultra-wide angle camera on your phone. Whoever named this thing knew what they were doing. 17dc91bb1f