Chamar is a widespread caste in northern India. The name is derived from the Sanskrit word charmakara, meaning skin worker. The Chamars are further divided into more than 150 sub-castes. Chamar is a Dalit community classified as a Scheduled Caste under modern India's system of positive discrimination. Historically they are the major victims of the Hindu ranking system and were discriminated against in society through practices like untouchability. Earlier they resided outside higher-caste Hindu villages to practice the discriminatory practice of Untouchability. The practice of marrying either their husband’s younger brother or a widower of the same sub-caste existed among the widows in the Chamar caste. They practiced many rituals and customs to raise their prestige and status in society. To pursue the mythical purpose of purification, a segment of the caste follows the teaching of Shiva Narayana, the 18th-century saint and ascetic of northern India. Another sector of the Chamar community held great admiration towards the 16th-century social reformer and poet poet-saint, Ravidas. Some members of the community adopted Buddhism, following the footsteps of B.R. Ambedkar.
Leather-bottle makers
The hereditary occupation of the people of the Chamar community is tanning leather. Many people still practice their traditional craft. At the same time, many have become part of the broader agricultural and urban labor force. For ages, crafting products with leather was the only occupation and skill for the majority of them. When a ban on cow slaughter has imposed a ban in India, the livelihood of these people who depended on leather was under threat, especially thousands of Dalits living in Dharavi. As it has always been said, necessity is the mother of invention, this crisis led to the creation of the brand 'Chamar'. The founder of Chamar studios is the artist Sudheer Rajbhar. He created this brand to extend a helping hand to the artists of the Dalit community. He employed the leather workers from these Dalit communities coming out like a reef for the victims of the beef ban to produce handmade bags and other accessories in different materials, including cotton, Rubber, latex, and recycled materials. These individuals who worked in the tanneries would use the hide of dead cattle to make leather that is used to make top-quality designer bags and wallets. This initiative has started a dialogue around the conditions of the untouchables in India. They are still treated in society in a discriminatory manner and are not allowed inside houses. To break this social stigma, Mr. Sudheer Rajbhar and inspired him to create an exclusive brand for uplifting the social status of chamar artisans named it 'Chamar studios'. He says, " As a child, I often heard the word ‘chamar’ used derogatorily, to call someone stupid or lesser than when it refers to a profession. I want to bring back respect to this word.”
The artisans possess excellent skills and are well-versed in making artistic bags and accessories. Rajbhar provided them better quality raw materials like cotton, canvas, latex, and recycled thin rubber tire sheets. He also educated them on how to use these raw materials in more artistic ways. Sudheer assisted them in utilizing their skills to work with alternative materials other than leather. The materials include cotton, latex, canvas, and recycled tires. The bags and the accessories they are creating are not mere business products but are seen as artwork and symbols of the rebellion of an oppressed community. They are slowly creating a social change by putting the spotlight on marvelous talents which were buried under the soil by the social stigma and discriminatory practices. The chamar is not just a business model but a way in which the oppressed community chose to break the century-old stereotypes and are changing their face forever. The price of the products ranges roughly between 700 and 9000 rupees. Customers can download their catalog and go through their products along with their prices and order online for delivery.
The Chamar Project is focused on art and craft. At the same time, as Chamars come from the backward classes, his idea is to break such boundaries and revamp their identity and bring respect and acknowledgment to the community's skill set and work. According to Sachin Bheema Sakhre, the member of chamar studio, the chamar studios has given the dignity and respect they deserve as an artist. Earlier, when they were stitching and repairing shoes at the footpath, they were ignored and neglected by the customers. But, with the onset of Chamar studios, their social status has been uplifted. The way the world is looking at these people is undergoing a dramatic change.
The idea is that a Chamar is not associated with one factory or one particular workplace. Be it a railway station, a cobbler's shop, or someone's house, one can just create a small setup wherever they want and they can work from there. They have received positive responses from the workers. They are happy now doing what they are doing and they receive appropriate remuneration also for the same. It is an open studio and anyone and everyone are welcome to collaborate with them. The founder, Sudheer believes that "one can prosper only in unity" and that is his vision. They are on a road to make 'Made in Dharavi" a trademark and Chamar being referred to by all as gifted artisans. The Chamar is more than a brand. Chamar is more than a fashion statement. It is a social movement that promotes the skills of Chamar craftsmen as well as the social status of the Chamar community.
References:
This new collection of upcycled bags features designs by 66 Indian couturiers | Vogue India
Chamar | Hindu caste | Britannica
Chamar Studio and the leather bag that is more than a fashion accessory
Chamar by Sudheer Rajbar (platform-mag.com)
Chamar Studio gives rubber tyres a second life - The Hindu
Chamar Studio Designer Brand Helps Mumbai Dalits I LBB, Mumbai
https://www.instagram.com/chamarstudio/?hl=en
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamar