[Peru]
"Hints of parsley and lemon juice burst in my mouth, reminding me of an August afternoon."
Catholics eat fish on Fridays during the season of Lent. Lent is the six weeks before Easter Sunday. You’re supposed to give up a particular indulgence (sweets for me, though I had quite a few slips), go to confession every week, and eat fish on Fridays. The rule didn’t come from the Bible, however. There’s actually some confusion about why exactly it started. The site U.S. Catholic says it’s because Jesus died on a Friday, and abstaining from shedding blood is honoring His sacrifice. Some say it was a Pope’s decision to support a desperate fishing industry in the 1500s. You might say the history is… fishy. Anyway. Traditions have a funny way of sticking around even if the reasoning is unclear. Regardless, it was a Friday, and I needed fish. The coastal country of Peru seemed like a good place to turn.
The obvious choice for Peruvian seafood is ceviche; however, the quality of fish needed for ceviche seemed out of my price range. I still wanted a similar freshness, so I opted for pescado sudado. The Spanish word sudado actually means “sweaty” in English, but it is used in the names of many steamed dishes and stews. The basics of the recipe spotlight a fillet of white fish steamed in white wine and a topping of sauteed onions, garlic, and tomatoes. My reference recipe came from a website called Food. I usually opt for a site that has more authentic roots, but the notes from the collaborator clarified that the original recipe came from an NYC Peruvian restaurant. While I could have picked something more widely known, the fresh, natural aspects of the dish appealed to me.
My chosen white fish was frozen cod. They were having a sale for the bags of fillets, and while I have kept this project affordable, I can’t deny that all of this cooking was affecting my bank account. Plus, the fresh fish on display at grocery stores in the United States usually has been frozen at some point, but the price is higher because the fillets are larger in the best condition. For twice the price, I decided that looks are superficial. Given that my main component was so cheap, this dish is probably the most affordable one so far. I only needed two tomatoes and the cheapest pinot grigio I could find.
Not only was this dish affordable, it was so easy. I sliced the onion and tomatoes and finely chopped the garlic. These were sauteed in oil for a few minutes to soften them. I then took out two thawed cod fillets and dressed them with a little salt, pepper, and paprika. After arranging the tomatoes and onions around the perimeter of the fry pan, I put the fillets in the middle. I quickly poured in about half a cup of white wine and covered the pan. I hadn’t steamed fish before, so I wasn’t sure exactly how long it would need in the pan, but I fought the temptation to open the lid and release all of the essential steam. In the meantime, I started cooking some white rice, as some of the reviews said the wine broth needed a reliable carb to soak it up. I also thinly sliced a lemon and some parsley leaves to use as a garnish. We were going full fancy today!
I decided to check the internal temperature of the fish after about 10 minutes. It registered about 160℉, so I took the pan off of the heat. Taking the lid off released a wave of steam that made my eyes water. It smelled of garlic and pepper and goodness. I cautiously dipped my finger into the broth. The wine had a balance of sweetness and tartness, but it seemed like all of the alcohol had been cooked out. The sauteed onions and tomatoes were happily swimming in the sauce. This seemed like the perfect summer dish, and matched the unreasonably warm weather this March. I spooned some of the broth over a bed of rice, and gently laid the fillet on top. I then topped that with some of the onions, tomatoes, and garlic. Finally, I laid the lemon slices over the top and sprinkled the plate with fresh parsley. A traditional side would have likely included some combination of beans, corn, or salad. However, I made some roasted broccoli in an attempt to clear out my fridge. With all of the elements in place, the plate looked stunning.
I never thought frozen cod could taste so fresh. It flaked apart as I dove in with my fork, signaling that it was finished cooking but not dry. Hints of parsley and lemon juice burst in my mouth, reminding me of an August afternoon. The reduced dry white wine helped even out the sweet onion. The rice underneath the fish had turned a pale pink shade from the tomatoes in the pan. Garlic lingered throughout the meal, making me remember a Spanish expression, el poder de ajo—the power of garlic. The dish was light and simple, leaving me satisfied but not bloated.
It was about then that I remembered that the majority of Peruvians would be eating fish on Friday; it’s estimated that anywhere between 85% to 90% of the country’s population is Catholic. Some days I feel conflicted about my faith, given issues throughout the church. Still, I have always loved how it connects me to strangers. It’s been a while since I’ve been to church, but when I go, I like imagining that masses of people are reciting the same prayers that I am, maybe in the very same moment. Maybe saying the very same words. I wondered if somewhere a Peruvian family was eating pescado sudado and also wondering why they eat fish on Fridays in the first place. I took my last bite, and hoped someone else was taking their last bite too.