Prague and the Czech Republic have a deeply rooted Jewish history and culture. Being Jewish, I was aware of its significance, but only to an extent. What I did not expect was how I would find this culture around every corner. While on a quick coffee run, I spotted a steeple in the distance. I assumed it belonged to a church as they are a common sight in the City. Getting closer, I got a glimpse of a Star of David over the rooftops. After realizing this, I felt drawn to the building. Walking towards the end of the street, I was taken aback. In front of me was the most beautiful Synagogue I have ever seen. Unknowingly, I stumbled upon The Jerusalem Synagogue. It is one of six houses of worship across the city and not too far from Prague’s Jewish Quarter.
The Jerusalem Synagogue was designed in Art Nouveau style by Wilhelm Stiassny. His design was one of three and, after years of debate, was selected in 1903. The task of constructing the synagogue was created by the “Society for the Construction of a New Temple,” which was founded in 1898 after the reconstruction of Jewish Town. Stiassny’s design draws primarily from Islamic symbols, including the large arches on the facade of the building. Intricate stained glass windows depicting the Star of David and other Jewish symbols decorate the inside and outside. Jerusalem Synagogue has had a sober history since its construction in 1906. During World War II, the majority of the Jews living in Prague were deported to nearby ghettos. With few Jews left, the synagogue was used as a warehouse, storing gas masks, medical supplies, and other military equipment. Because of this, much of its beauty was left untouched, but it sat empty as a house of worship. Today, the Jews of Praha use it for bar/bat mitzvahs, weddings, Saturday services and Holy Days. The Jerusalem Synagogue has a permanent exhibit that delves into its history and construction in deep detail.
I had goosebumps the entire time. Inside, it was grand yet familiar. The dark wooden pews and the golden arc with carvings of the Ten Commandments hold a sense of nostalgia despite being the first time I have seen them. In the background, the familiar sound of a rabbi chanting Hebrew prayers creeps into my ears. Even the Ner Tamid, the Eternal Light, glows brightly above, a reminder of what can be found in every synagogue. No matter where they are located, how old or lavish they are, Synangouges have a particular feeling. That feeling is one of the many factors that connects Jews across oceans and cultures. We are a small people, but our connection is strong. The New Jerusalem Synagogue, and all its glory, felt like a piece of me in an unfamiliar city.
About an hour outside Prague sits the town of Terezín. Terezín was used as a ghetto and is where Jews from across the country were forcibly taken during World War Two. It is home to a military prison and work camp as well. Conditions here, like all Nazi establishments, were deplorable. Illness was rampant, starvation was inevitable and hygiene was nonexistent. Of 150,000 Jews sent there, 33,000 died within the ghetto, and 88,000 were sent to other concentration camps to meet the same fate. This town was used heavily in Nazi propaganda. Propaganda films depicted Jews in the ghetto living their life in safe and healthy conditions despite the horrors going on behind the camera.
Today, you can visit the Small Fortress and several museums around the town. The tour is extremely moving yet informative and puts the horrors committed at Terezín into perspective. One of the most striking elements is the exhibit “Art Against Death.” This exhibit displayed the art, writing, theater, and music created by Jews living in the ghetto. Despite the awful conditions, the residents of Terezín found a way to make art. It perfectly portrays the resilience of the human spirit in times of despair. The footprints in the photo represent the journey many Jews started but never finished. It also represents the travelers and visitors who come to Terezín every year, ensuring their story is not forgotten.
While walking down the streets of Praha, you will notice a specific logo outside nearly every bar and pub. The standout green font and red wax seal are instantly recognizable as Pilsner Urquel. This beer is one of the Czech Republic's most iconic products and is beloved by its citizens. You can find it at bars across the city and on the shelves of every store. This popularity is no new phenomenon in the country. Pilsner Urquel has been served to Czech citizens since its first batch was brewed on October 5, 1842. Its creation unleashed a new type of beer upon the public, and they have been crazy about it ever since. In the town of Plzen sits the Pilsen Urquel factory and cellars, where it has been brewed, bottled and shipped since its origin. There is much to do here, including factory tours, a Pilsner-run pub and apparently hospital and police supply conventions! The first two things you will notice after walking through the ionic Jubilee gate are the smoke stack and a water tower looming in the distance. The water tower houses well water collected 100 meters below the surface. This water is one of the four key ingredients in the beer. Upon entering the welcome center in the brewery, you are immediately greeted by an unmistakable collage of green bottles. They are lit up to display the Pilsner logo. The unlikely beauty of old beer bottles is captivating. Up close, they look almost like a kaleidoscope. It is a perfect introduction to the intricate process of brewing Pilsner Urquel.