This page describes how we fabricated the final product based off of our detailed design. In order to see a description of our design please view the "Detailed Design" tab.
We built the frame by purchasing 2x4's and having Nick and Bill from the Machine Shop cut them to the correct lengths of two 51" pieces, and two 37.5" pieces with 1/2'' cuts that are 1/2'' deep. First, we screwed one of the 52" pieces for the 49" inch pieces one at each end with the cuts facing inward. We used a pilot hole for each screw we put in to help prevent the wood from splitting. We also used a small amount of wood glue on the screws in order to help ensure the two pieces would hold together. Once those pieces were attached by the 36" piece on the bottom of the 52" piece, placing the center of the 36" piece on the outside edge of the 52". Then the frame was flipped upright and the MDF board with the sheet metal already glued to it was slid down into the grooves made in the side support. Once the MDF was inserted, the top 52" piece was screwed down keeping the MDF board in place. The angled supports were screwed in next. We then screwed on rubber foot stoppers putting four per side one end was doubled up on each side in order to make the bottom level and keep the structure from rocking. Finally, we put silicone and rubber over any of the screws that were exposed so the children would not cut themselves on them. Images of the process can be seen below.
Screwing down the top 52" piece
Adding more screws to the 36" piece to stop the piece from rotating
Frame after the MDF board was slid in
Alex adding the foot stoppers
Drilling pilot hole for the angled supports from the bottom
Close up view of Rubber Foot Stopper
Close up of screw with wood glue on it before screwing it in
Orientation of the frame while we were attaching angle supports and foot stoppers
View of all four foot stoppers on one side
We found cardboard tubes that worked perfectly since they weren't too big and were fairly light. We also found similarly sized shipping tubes that we utilized as well. Some tubes were cut in half lengthwise, to create two half-pipe ramps. The cut edges were sanded smooth with fine grit sandpaper to make sure everything was rounded and even.
To make the ramps look more aesthetically pleasing and a little more durable, pieces of decorated scrap-booking paper were cut to size for the individual ramps' inside and outside surfaces and then glued on using Mod Podge (non-toxic).
Then, to cover the raw edges of the ramps and to protect them, colored Washi tape was placed along them and secured with a layer of Mod Podge. Another layer of Mod Podge was applied for protection. Finally, to complete them, a few layers of Mod Podge Clear Acrylic Sealer (non-toxic when dry) was applied to make them smooth, shiny, and hopefully more durable.
The 3-D printed connector pieces (described in "Detailed Design") were attached using 2-Part Epoxy Gorilla Glue. The magnets were also fixed to the connector pieces using the same glue.
Pictures of the track pieces and materials used can be seen below. For instructions on how to create the ramps please view the "Client Documentation" section in the "Delivery" tab.
Ramps without the connector pieces
Used to glue the scrap-booking paper onto the ramps as well as a top-coat before the sealant
Materials used
Connector pieces attached without magnets
Many of the completed pieces
Close up view of a completed piece
Final Presentation
Once we had almost completed fabrication of the system, we presented our final product to our class and our client. A video of us presenting can be viewed to the right.