Setsubun marks the old calendar's turn from winter to spring with roasted soybeans, demon masks and a lucky sushi roll, and this guide explains each custom and where to see it.
Updated October 19, 2026 | By Tokyo Paul
Quick answer: Setsubun is a Japanese seasonal festival held around February 3, the day before spring begins on the traditional calendar. Families and shrines throw roasted soybeans, called mamemaki, to drive out bad luck, shouting "Oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi" (demons out, fortune in). Afterward people eat one bean for each year of their age, often with one extra.
The word setsubun means a division between seasons, and in the old calendar it applied to the day before each season began. Today it almost always refers to the day before Risshun, the first day of spring in the traditional calendar. That falls on or near February 3, and in some years on February 2 or 4. Because the calendar spring arrives in the middle of Japan's coldest weeks, the celebration is a hopeful way to look ahead.
The central idea is a fresh start. People believe that the turn of the season is a moment when misfortune and illness can slip in, so households and shrines perform small rituals to clear them out and invite good luck. The ritual is cheerful, noisy and family friendly, and it is especially popular with children, who often get to play the part of the demon or the thrower.
The roots of Setsubun lie in tsuina, a Chinese exorcism rite introduced to Japan around the eighth century. Early records describe it as an imperial court ceremony meant to ward off evil spirits. Over time the court rite changed and merged with Buddhist and Shinto practices at temples and shrines.
The familiar bean-throwing form took shape in the Muromachi period, between the fourteenth and sixteenth centuries. One legend connects it to a monk on Mount Kurama near Kyoto who used roasted beans against demons. Beans were also considered to hold spiritual power, and wordplay is often cited as part of the reason, since mame sounds like words associated with destroying demons and with health. Details of the history vary between accounts, so the story is best treated as a mix of record and legend.
At home, mamemaki is simple. Roasted soybeans, called fukumame or fortune beans, are thrown out the front door or at someone wearing a paper oni mask while everyone shouts "Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!" The door is then closed so the demon cannot return. The person doing the throwing is traditionally the head of the household or a man born in the zodiac year that is about to begin, although families often let children take part.
Afterward, everyone eats the beans, one for each year of their age, and many people add one more for the coming year. Packaged sets of roasted soybeans, often sold with a paper demon mask, appear in supermarkets in late January. Some families scatter the beans on the floor and sweep them up, while others toss them in an entryway or garden. Whatever the method, sweeping up the beans afterward is part of the routine.
Mamemaki is not the only defense against demons. Another old custom is hiiragi iwashi, in which a sardine head is skewered on a sprig of holly and hung at the entrance. The prickly leaves and the strong smell of the fish are believed to keep oni away. Accounts of when it began differ, but it is clearly an old custom with deep roots in the season.
Other regional touches include drinking ginger sake, eating foods traditional to a local area, and placing small decorations at doorways. Customs differ widely from prefecture to prefecture, and some families skip certain steps. Some families named Watanabe, for example, skip bean throwing because of a legend about an ancestor who defeated powerful demons. Local variations are part of the fun, and visitors are welcome to observe.
A modern addition on Setsubun is ehomaki, a thick uncut sushi roll. Tradition says it should be eaten in silence, while facing that year's lucky compass direction, which changes annually and is announced by shrines and in calendars. The roll is often stuffed with seven ingredients, often said to stand for the seven lucky gods, such as egg, cucumber, shiitake mushroom and eel. Eating it whole is meant to avoid cutting off good luck.
Ehomaki is generally said to have begun in the Osaka area, and it spread across the country over the twentieth century, helped along by promotion in supermarkets and convenience stores. Today it is sold at supermarkets, bakeries and sushi counters in the weeks before February 3, and plenty of households make their own. Flavors and ingredients vary, so the selection is a pleasant way for visitors to taste a seasonal specialty.
Many shrines and temples hold public Setsubun events where priests, guests and invited celebrities throw beans or small packets to the crowd. In Kyoto, apprentice geisha, called maiko, perform a dance and then throw beans at some events. Large Tokyo temples, including Senso-ji in Asakusa, attract very large crowds, which reference sources report at close to 100,000 people in some years.
Senso-ji's own English site notes a distinctive twist. Because Kannon, the compassionate bodhisattva enshrined there, is not thought to have demons nearby, visitors there say "Long life! Welcome good fortune!" instead of the usual demon-out chant. Event times, ticket rules and guest lists change every year, so check the official page of the shrine or temple before going. Arrive early, as popular events fill up quickly.
Setsubun is easy to enjoy. Visitors can watch a bean-throwing ceremony, buy a set of fukumame and a mask at a supermarket, or try ehomaki from a shop. Catching a thrown packet at a shrine is considered lucky, so expect friendly jostling near the stage. Keep bags closed and children close, and follow staff instructions, because crowds can be large.
When eating the beans, take care with small children. Roasted soybeans are hard, and pediatric guidance such as that from the American Academy of Pediatrics lists nuts and other hard foods as choking risks for young children, so many households choose softer alternatives or skip eating the beans. This guide shares general cultural information, not professional advice; for a child's health, talk with a pediatrician or local clinic. If a nearby shrine is hosting a ceremony, the date is usually posted on its website a few weeks beforehand.
Setsubun is usually held on February 3, the day before Risshun, the first day of spring on the traditional calendar. In some years it falls on February 2 or 4. Because the date can shift, check a current calendar or the website of the shrine hosting a ceremony before making plans.
The traditional chant is "Oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi," meaning demons out, fortune in. The beans are thrown out the door or at someone in an oni mask, and the door is shut afterward. Some temples use a different phrase, such as the one used at Senso-ji, which replaces the demon line with a wish for long life and good fortune.
Ehomaki is an uncut roll eaten facing that year's lucky direction, usually in silence, to invite good fortune. Keeping the roll whole is said to keep luck from being cut. The custom began around Osaka and spread nationwide over the twentieth century. It is a fun, modern addition to the older bean-throwing tradition.
To explore further, see the Wikipedia article on Setsubun and the English website of Senso-ji Temple.