It’s common to notice dust settling within the first day after cleaning. In fact, some dust particles—depending on their size—can continue to fall for days or even weeks. This is simply a matter of gravity: heavier particles settle more quickly, while lighter, finer particles remain suspended in the air much longer.

At Dependable Pro Services, we use HEPA-filtered equipment to minimize dust during the cleaning process. However, some airborne particles will inevitably settle after we leave. According to Pro Remodeler, particles around 5 microns in diameter will settle in about 8 minutes, whereas particles as small as 1 micron can remain airborne for 4 hours or more.

For more details, please see our webpage: “A Word on Dust.”

To begin with, always remove dust and dirt with a dry dust mop, a microfiber cloth, or a vacuum that is suitable for hard-surface floors. 

We've found that Ecolab® pH No Rinse Neutral Floor Cleaner works really well for cleaning most types of floors. Another excellent option is Zep® Neutral Floor Cleaner Concentrate. Both manufacturers claim that these are pH-neutral cleaners specifically designed to clean and restore shine to hard surfaces without leaving any residue. A pH-neutral cleaner, with a pH around 7, is gentle yet effective, as it's neither too acidic nor alkaline. This makes it safe for use on a variety of surfaces, providing protection while effectively tackling dirt, spills, and tough grime. Both products come in 1-gallon concentrates that can make up to 128 gallons of floor cleaner

• Neutral Ph Formula

• Cleans & Restores Shine, No Rinsing Needed

• Maintains Polish Without Stripping Protective Coating

• Suitable For Vinyl (Vct), Marble, Granite & Stone Floors

Some flooring companies suggest using a small amount of liquid laundry detergent mixed with water for cleaning. However, be cautious, as the alkalis in laundry detergent could be too harsh for delicate floors. If you have hardwood or engineered hardwood floors, a Swiffer Sweeper can be a great option. These mops use pads with tiny synthetic fibers that effectively reach into the grooves of wood floors, picking up dust without causing scratches.

Let's face it, having a brand new home, or even an existing home, with orange stains from clay is not pretty. Removing the stains is not as difficult as you might think or might have experienced. The following method will likely do the trick.

Start with a clear white vinegar, diluted 50:50 with water, let it sit for 3 to 5 minutes and rinse it off with the water hose, unless you have a pressure washer that you can use. See if that removes the stains. You might have to apply the vinegar solution on the stain multiple times, scrub lightly, and then rinse and if necessary you can use a stronger vinegar. 

Most vinegars bought in your local grocery store contain 4 to 8 percent acetic acid, which means they have a strength (also sometimes called acidity) of 4 to 8 percent. Some vinegars contain up to 20 to 30 percent acetic acid — but any solution with more than 11 percent is strong enough to literally burn your eyes and skin, so be careful if you decide to use a stronger vinegar. 

As always, test on a small area first to see if it works. 

Spray foam insulation is made by combining isocyanate and polyol resin into a foam. Polyurethane, a polymer made of organic units, is the most commonly used material for spray foam. As you can imagine, Polyurethane is an extremely tough material and can be challenging to remove.

If spray foam accidentally onto your concrete or other surfaces it can be removed with a bit of effort, whether it is uncured foam or cured foam. 

UNCURED FOAM: It is much easier to remove uncured foam and you can do so with one of the following products:

• 91% isopropyl alcohol: This will work best with small spills, just let the alcohol sit for a few seconds and wipe clean.

• Acetone: Be careful not to use acetone on plastic or rubber surfaces as it will likely cause damage. Although acetone is more effective than rubbing alcohol it can likely damage surfaces. As always, test an area first. It is best to apply acetone onto a rag and wipe the area and repeat several times until the foam is removed. 

• WD40: Spray the foam with WD40, then wipe the spray off with a rag and repeat as necessary.

• Foam Removers: There are several foam removers on the market. Just google foam removers or visit your local hardware store.

CURED FOAM: It will be much more challenging to remove foam that has cured. To begin with remove the excess foam using a utility blade or a multi purpose scraper (aka multi purpose painter's tool). Remove as much as the foam as possible, then use one of the solvents listed above to remove the remaining part of the foam. Let the solvent sit for 5 to 10 minutes and remove with a rag and repeat as necessary.