Castleton Tower

Other climbs of Castleton Tower:

Kor-Ingalls (5.9 4p) • North Chimney (5.9, 3-4p)

Category: Utah Summit Elev: 6,656 ft Rock Type: Wingate sandstone

This page contains two trip reports:

Date: September 10, 2014 (Wed)Trip Report #: 178Partner: Karl Kelley

Date: May 11, 2024 (Sat)Trip Report #: 691Partner: Linn Kelley

Route: North Chimney (5.9, 3-4p)

A classic tower climb. Climbed twice, 10 years apart.

Route Overlay

Trip Report #2 (May 2024)

(second time climbing the North Chimney route on Castleton)

Intro

The initial plan of this long weekend climbing trip was to go to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. But an unsettled weather forecast forced us to pivot. We decided to go to Moab and climb a few classic routes. The forecast was for 40% rain on Saturday and sun on Sunday. We decided to take the chance.

On Saturday morning we climbed Kor-Ingalls (5.9+, 4p) (click link for trip report) on Castleton Tower. When we finished, the rain had still not arrived, so we decided to have a quick lunch to head back up Castleton via the North Chimney. I had climbed this route ten years previous and remembered it being quite fun. This is Castleton's easiest route. What a fun 2-route day! And because of the iffy forecast, we had these two popular routes to ourselves!

On Sunday we climbed Fine Jade (5.11, 4-5p) (click link for trip report) on The Rectory. What a great weekend of tower climbing.

This page gives a route overlay and pitch-by-pitch photos from the climb.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd

Begin on the far left side of the north face. Reach the start by hiking to the north side of the tower and scrambling up from the saddle between Castleton and The Recotry to a ledge below the north face. There is a short 4th class rock step. Go left on the ledge to the base of the route.

Camping at the Castleton trailhead. I love unregulated camping. Just show up and find a spot and go to sleep.

Approaching the rock step on the north side of Castleton.

View north towards The Rectory.

Pitch 1

5.9, 140'

Jam sustained, vertical hand cracks to a crux bulge at 130 feet. Belay 10 feet higher at a stance with two bolts. A great pitch of climbing.

Looking up Pitch 1.

Pitch 1 fun.

Pitch 2

5.8+, 135'

Jam an off-width crack, then climb over chockstones and up cracks in a moderate chimney. Continue up to a belay ledge.

Looking up Pitch 2.

An old bolt at the crux wide section. You can back this up with a #5. A #4 (which we had) is too small.

Pitch 3

5.8

Jam a hand crack, then stem up a chimney to a notch (step across chimney into notch) between the main tower and a large flake and belay.

Looking up Pitch 3.

Pitch 4

5.7, 40'

Join the Kor-Ingalls Route and face climb up left for 40 feet to the summit.

Pitch 4.

Top!

Woo hoo!

Summit cairn.

Descent

Rappel

It is best to rappel the North Face. Four raps with a single 70. It is also possible to rappel the Kor Ingalls route with a single 70, but ropes have a high potential to get stuck and if there are other parties on the route you get in their way. So rappel the North Face and admire the North Face route as you descend.