Castleton Tower
Date: May 11, 2024 (Sat)Trip Report #: 690Partner: Linn Kelley
Route: Kor-Ingalls (5.9, 4p)
A Fifty Classsic tower climb.
Intro
The initial plan of this long weekend climbing trip was to go to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. But an unsettled weather forecast forced us to pivot. We decided to go to Moab and climb a few classic routes. The forecast was for 40% rain on Saturday and sun on Sunday. We decided to take the chance.
On Saturday morning we climbed Kor-Ingalls (5.9+, 4p) on Castleton Tower. Castleton Tower is probably the most famous desert tower in the world, and was the first major tower climbed in the Moab area. The Kor-Ingalls route is one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. This is one of the earliest modern desert routes, put up by the dynamic duo of astrophysicist Huntley Ingalls and the incomparable Layton Kor in September of 1961. It is a pretty moderate tower route. Though it climbs wide, you don't need any wide gear.
After climbing Kor-Ingalls, the rain had still not arrived, so we decided to have a quick lunch to head back up Castleton via the North Chimney (5.9, 4p) (click link for that trip report). What a fun 2-route day! And because of the iffy forecast, we had these two popular routes to ourselves!
On Sunday we climbed Fine Jade (5.11, 4-5p) (click link for trip report) on The Rectory. What a great weekend of tower climbing.
This page gives a route overlay and pitch-by-pitch photos from the climb.
Route Overlay
Pitch-by-Pitch Photos
Approach
2nd
Take the trail up to the base of the north side of Castleton Tower. Surmount a 4th class rock step. Walk left from the start of the North Chimney along a ledge. Squat under the roof and continue via an exposed ledge to where big blocks impeded progress. You can also approach by walking around the right side of Castleton and ascending a 4th class step. We went the way that passed by the start of the North Chimney.
Pitch 1
5.6, 130'
Easy wide climbing leads to a big ledge a little ways up. Continue with more easy climbing in a chimney to another ledge and continue on to a third ledge with a bolted anchor.
Pitch 2
5.8, 100'
The route continues straight up up a double hand and fist crack past some large blocks to a nice belay ledge with bolts. (To the left is Black Sun (10b) and to the right is Arrowhead (10+).)
Pitch 3
5.9+, 100' (crux pitch)
The offwidth. Some hard moves past bolts in a heavily calcited offwidth. Slick face holds outside the offwidth offer some help. Finish on a nice belay ledge.
Pitch 4
5.7
Head right and join with the last pitch of North Chimney. Fun face climbing to a large ledge with a bolted belay. The original route instead steps left from the belay and ascends a chimney to the same belay ledge. I started up the chimney but felt as if I wanted wider gear, so I backed down and went right.
Top!
Woo hoo!
Descent
Rappel
It is best to rappel the North Face. Four raps with a single 70. It is also possible to rappel the Kor Ingalls route with a single 70, but ropes have a high potential to get stuck and if there are other parties on the route you get in their way. So rappel the North Face and admire the North Face route as you descend.
