Hallett Peak
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Date: Month Day, Year (day)Trip Report #: 6xxPartner: partner
Route: Hesse-Fergusson (5.9, 7p)
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Intro
This steep route ascends the Second Buttress half a rope length left of Culp Bossier, to a point high on the wall, where it either goes left to join Englishman's Route, or right to join Culp-Bossier.
Route Overlay
Time Stats
Bear Lake Trailhead to base of route: x hours x minutes
Climb route: x hours x minutes
Descend: x hours x minutes
Hike back to trailhead: x hours x minutes
Total car-to-car (includes breaks): x hours x minutes
Pitch-by-Pitch Photos
Approach
2nd
From Bear Lake Trailhead, follow the trail to Emerald Lake. Go left around the lake, scrambling through talus and then on a climbers' trail under the base of the wall. Begin at the pink band as for Love, Culp-Bossier, and Jackson-Johnson.
Pitch 1
5.6, 160'
Climb through the pink band, then follow a grassy right-facing dihedral for 130 feet. Step left and climb 30 feet to a stance.
Pitch 2
5.7, 165'
Take the left of two small dihedrals and continue up easy ground to a grassy ledge. Fro the left side of the ledge, climb a left-facing dihedral and pass a white roof on the left, then go up and right to a stance in the right of two left-facing corners.
Pitch 3
5.9, 80'
Work up the corner and turn a large square roof, then take a crack to the terrace at mid-face.
Pitch 4
5.7 R, 150'
Climb a shallow right-facing dihedral to a roof that is passed on the right, then continue up the face to belay at a flake.
Pitch 5
5.8, 150'
Follow the face up and slightly right, and belay at a small white band.
Pitch 6
5.8, 100'
Climb a shallow left-facing dihedral to a diagonal roof, then traverse up and right beneath the roof to join Culp-Bossier.
Pitch 7
5.8, 100'
Do the final pitch of Culp-Bossier. Work out right to a bolt, go up past a roof, then back left to the crack. Climb up to a good ledge 90 feet to belay and then scramble to the top of the wall.
Alternatively, do the final pitch of Englishman's Route (5.8 or 5.9).
Top!
The route tops out on the ridge well below the actual summit of Hallett. It would be easy to scramble to the summit from here, but we felt no great need to do so so we headed down.
Descent
Scramble
From the top of the route, hike downwards along the ridge, following cairns. At the end of the last big buttress before a big descent to the next one, look for the chains that mark the first rappel. Make two raps (single 60). Then scramble down a gully eastward, and then jog back westward and scramble down a gully to the base of the Second Buttress. You end up a few hundred feet below the start of the route (5 minutes back to base). Note: The descent does NOT go down the huge gully to the east. This is apparently quite loose and harder than it looks.
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