Hallett Peak

Other routes I've climbed on Hallett: 
Better Than Love (5.9, 7p)    •    Culp-Bossier (5.8, 8p)     •    Englishman's Route (5.8, 6p)     •    Jackin' the Johnson (5.11c, 8p)     •    Jackson-Johnson (5.9, 9p)    •    Northcutt-Carter (5.10b, 7p)    •    Winter hike (snowy)
Category: Colorado (RMNP)Summit Elev: 12,713 ft (note: the top of the route is not the summit)Rock Type: Gneiss & Biotite Schist
Date: July 20, 2021 (Tue)Trip Report #: 481Partner: Sam Gerber

Route: Jackson-Johnson (5.9, 9p)

Hallett is a great way to get in 9 pitches before noon.

Intro

Jackson-Johnson was the first route up the Second Buttress, by Dallas Jackson and Dale Johnson in 1957. The route climbs enjoyable jugs, corners, and cracks to the top in 9 pitches. Most of the route is rated 5.4-5.6, with a 5.9 crux section. Although a moderate grade, the steepness and exposure makes it a bit more thoughtful and enjoyable than one would expect. To me, the route seemed fairly sustained at whatever difficulty it was, and the 5.9 crux didn't seem much harder than the "5.4" of the previous pitches.

I climbed this route with Sam Gerber, who is a friend of a previous climbing partner, and had contacted me earlier in the summer letting me know he was interested in getting out in RMNP if I ever had a day free. Thinks Sam for joining me on this adventure!

With the forecast for 50% afternoon thundershowers, Hallett can be a good choice. With an early start to beat timed entry and a steady pace, Sam and I topped out before noon. The thundershowers didn't end up materializing until around 5:15pm that day (well after I had finished this trip report in fact), but still it was nice not to be out by early afternoon.

The following page gives a trip report for the climb.

Time Stats

Route OverlayS

Also shows route overlay for the nearby Culp-Bossier route, which I climbed in 2018.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd

From Bear Lake Trailhead, follow the trail to Emerald Lake. Go left around the lake, scrambling through talus and then on a climbers' trail under the base of the wall. Begin at a pink band about 20 feet right of some small dihedrals. The route shares the start with the Culp-Bossier route (which I climbed in 2018).

Nice gneiss.
Looking up from the base of the route. This side of Hallett gets morning sun this time of year.

Pitch 1

5.6, 140'

Climb through the pink band, then follow a right-facing dihedral for 40 feet. Traverse right along a narrow grassy ledge to a crack, then climb to a higher ledge and belay. This is also the first pitch of Culp-Bossier route.

Looking down from the start of Pitch 1.

Pitch 2

5.5, 150'

Continue straight up into a right-facing dihedral, branch right into a right-facing flake/dihedral, and belay at a block.

Sam starting off Pitch 2.
Old pin.
Jackson-Johnson goes right here while Culp-Bossier goes left.

Pitch 3

5.4, 140-200'

Go right around the arete and climb a chimney system, setting a belay when convenient. 

The start of Pitch 3.
The chimney.
Looking down from the belay at the top of Pitch 3. I may have set my belay a bit higher than described, but it was a nice belay.

Pitch 4

5.4, 100-150'

Go up and right along a slab and belay at the bottom of a higher chimney that runs along the left side of the big Yellow Flake. This belay is just above the white band.

Sam starting off Pitch 4.

Pitch 5

5.5, 145'

Climb the chimney/dihedral along the edge of the Yellow Flake to a stance. Or continue to link with Pitch 6.

Looking up Pitch 5.

Pitch 6

5.4, 50'

Continue up the chimney to a big ledge at the top of the flake. Can be linked with Pitch 5.

Pitch 6. I linked this easily with Pitch 5.
Nice belay ledge at the top of Pitch 6.

Pitch 7

5.6, 150'

Follow a stepped, left-facing dihedral system up and left to a ledge.

Looking up the start of Pitch 7.
The dihedral system continues higher up on the pitch.

Pitch 8

5.9, 120'

Climb a right-facing dihedral for 50 feet, then work up and right past two old bolts (crux) where the corner leans right. Continue as the corner goes straight up and belay at the left.

I climbed this pitch again when I climbed Jackin' the Johnson (5.11c, 8p) in August 2022.

Looking up Pitch 8.
The crux of the pitch is just around this corner and up a bit.
Old piton.
Old bolt near the crux.

Pitch 9

5.3, 40'

A short steep and juggy pitch leads to the top of the wall. 

I climbed this pitch again when I climbed Jackin' the Johnson (5.11c, 8p) in August 2022.

Looking up Pitch 9.
Old pin.

Top!

The route tops out on the ridge well below the actual summit of Hallett. It would be easy to scramble to the summit from here, but we felt no great need to do so so we headed down.

View from the top looking out towards Bear Lake Parking lot (can see in the distance).
Pretty alpine columbine.

Descent

2 rappels + Scramble

From the top of the route, hike downwards along the ridge, following cairns. At the end of the last big buttress before a big descent to the next one, look for the chains that mark the first rappel. Make two raps (single 60). Then scramble down a gully eastward, and then jog back westward and scramble down a gully to the base of the Second Buttress. You end up a few hundred feet below the start of the route (5 minutes back to base). 

Even on a weekday, Emerald Lake is crowded. Hallett Peak towers above in the distance.
Thundershowers hit Estes Park at 5:15pm (and probably a bit sooner on Hallett). Thunder and lightning and heavy rain. Wouldn't want to be caught in that. I had my trip report written long before the storm hit.

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