Keyboard of the Winds - Dark Tower (Tower Three)
Date: July 17, 2022 (Sun)Trip Report #: 558Partner: Nate Arganbright
Route: Step-in-Stein (5.10a, 4p)
The second of two climbs on a two-night, two-day weekend in the spectacular Upper Glacier Gorge.
Intro
The previous weekend, Nate and I had spent two nights and two days in Upper Glacier Gorge, climbing two routes: Refugium (5.10a, 5p) on Arrowhead and East Prow (5.9+/10b, 6p) on The Spearhead. We had such a good weekend that we decided to return the next weekend and climb two more routes. I secured a bivy permit for Upper Glacier Gorge (need to be climbing a route that is at least four pitches to qualify for a bivy permit), and Nate and I bivied up there for two nights (Friday and Saturday nights) at our favorite bivy location below Spearhead. On Saturday we climbed North Ridge (5.6-5.8, 8p) of Spearhead and on Sunday we climbed Step-in-Stein (5.10a, 4p) on Dark Tower in the Keyboard of the Winds.
The Keyboard of the Winds is the name for the sweeping, serrated southwest ridge of Longs Peak. This ridge presents a very dramatic skyline from the Black Lake Cirque. There are seven towers, ranging in height from 250 to 700 feet tall, and all above 13,000 feet. There is at least one route up each tower. One unique quality of the Keyboard of the Winds is that they poke through the interface between the two main rock types in RMNP: gneiss and granite—climbing a tower begins on granite and ends on gneiss.
On this trip, we climbed The Dark Tower, also known more mundanely as Tower Three. The Dark Tower is located some 1,500 feet down and southwest from the top of the Trough on The Keyhole Route. The route Step-in-Stein ascends the west side of the tower.
This page gives a trip report for our climb of Step-in-Stein. I also give some photos of our two days and nights hanging out in this spectacular area. Enjoy!
Route OverlayS
Pitch-by-Pitch Photos
Approach
2nd-3rd
From Glacier Gorge, the best way to get to the base of the Dark Tower is to scramble up 3rd class terrain alongside The Trough.
Pitch 1
5.9, 200+'
Climb up to a prominent left-facing dihedral and follow it to a small roof. Undercling out left to another crack system, then head into a large left-facing corner. Follow it up and left to a small stance. This is a long pitch.
Pitch 2
5.10a, 200'
Head out right into a left-facing dihedral, climb straight up, and pull a roof on good holds. Face climb up and left to the left side of a sharp arete. Start on the left side of the arete, climb up and right, and swing back onto the main face (very exposed!). Continue up and right to belay on a sloping ledge at the right side of the tower.
Pitch 3
5.9+, 120'
Step left and ascend a short headwall for 20 feet. Walk 10 feet, and then climb another awkward wall, being careful to avoid a loose chockstone. At its top, walk another 10 feet, then climb a wide crack up and right to belay on a ledge.
Pitch 4
5.10a, 30'
Traverse around the right side of the tower for 80 feet and re-establish the belay. Climb a short, steep crack that splits the summit block. Belay on top.
Top
The tower tops out at about 13,400 feet.
Descent
3rd-4th
Walk off the back towards the SE. There are a few ways to go from here, but we chose to downclimb a cliff band (4th) and descend between Mr. Stubbs (Tower Four) and Mrs. Stubbs (Tower Five) back to the base of Dark Tower, and then reversed the hike down the Trough back into Glacier Gorge.
other photos
We had secured a bivy permit for Upper Glacier Gorge (need to be climbing a route that is at least four pitches to qualify for a bivy permit), and we bivied up there for two nights (Friday and Saturday nights) at our favorite bivy location below The Spearhead. What a marvelous place to hang out for the weekend!
Our bivy
Upper Glacier Gorge has some of the best bivy locations in RMNP. We stayed at one of our favorites, which we have stayed at a few times before. It is sheltered enough to keep one dry in a storm (as we found out on this trip....) and has a nice flat area for sleeping.
Flora
The wildflowers were out.
Elk
The Upper Glacier Gorge area often has elk in the summer. We spotted several elk in the area.
Scenery
Upper Glacier Gorge is a picturesque place.
Checking out a new route on The Spearhead
A new 7-pitch 5.11c route—called The Kingfisher—had been completed on The Spearhead the previous weekend. We went to check out the start of the route, since we are interested in climbing it later this summer. It may be problematic getting to the first bolt once the snowpatch melts back though....
Hiking
It's a pleasant hike from Bear Lake / Glacier Gorge Trailhead to Upper Glacier Gorge.