Mt. Slesse
1.
Date: September 14, 2007 (Fri)Trip Report #: 53Partner: Clint Cummins2.
Date: July 28, 2017 (Fri)Trip Report #: 256Partner: DRRoute: Northeast Buttress (V, 5.9-10a, 2500')
I first climbed this Fifty Classic route with my mentor Clint, who drove all the way from California to climb it. Ten years later, with another decade of climbing and overlays under my belt, I climbed the route again.
First, a few notes that apply to both trip reports:
POCKET GLACIER
In interest of safety, climbers often wait until the pocket glacier slides off to climb the NE Buttress of Slesse, as I did on both occasions I have climbed Slesse. Some years the pocket glacier slides by July, while some years it hangs around through September. The photo to the right was taken on August 12, 2016. The pocket glacier was unusually large for so late in the summer. On a particularly warm day a week later, the entire glacier slid off all at once!
DESCENT OPTIONS
Part of climbing Slesse is deciding which descent option to take: the Slesse Mountain Trail or the Crossover descent. The advantage of the Crossover descent is that you return to the trailhead where you started on the east side of the mountain; the Slesse Mountain trail, however, dumps you out at a different trailhead on the opposite side of the mountain, requiring a second vehicle and driving down more (potentially rough, every year is different) logging roads. The advantage of the Slesse Mountain trail is that it is a pretty easy slog out, which can be nice if it is dark or if you are tired; the Crossover descent requires more involved routefinding and some travel over steep snowfields and talus, which is not as fun in the dark or when tired. In 2007, Clint and I chose to hike out via the Slesse Mountain Trail. In 2017, DR and I took the Crossover descent. After doing both, I decided I have no strong preference of descent option—the advantages/disadvantages of the two descent options about balance out for me. I would make my decision based on road conditions, snow conditions, availability of second vehicle, hours of daylight, comfort with routefinding and rugged terrain, partner's preference, etc.
ROAD CONDITIONS
The condition of the logging roads vary from year to year. In both 2007 and 2017, I have been able to drive my Subaru Forester to the Slesse trailhead, but I have had friends that were on other years unable to get their car all the way to the trailhead (especially if it is a low-clearance vehicle). But I think that the presence of the Slesse Memorial Trail at the start of the approach means that the road is repaired and re-graded often enough that you can usually expect to be able to drive at least most of the way to the trailhead, especially if you have a high-clearance vehicle.
