Trip Report; Wetherby U3A with Bird Holidays in Hungary May 2019
This report is very much my highlights and my memory and no way attempts to include everything which would be impossible! Hopefully it will act as an 'aide memoir' for folk to recall some of the wonderful sights we saw on our trip.
(Rosemary Cheshire May 2019)
Friday May 10th
Having spent four wonderful nights in Budapest eleven of the group met up with our Hungarian guide Tamás and travelled to the airport to pick up Andy and the Four Musketeers!
We then set off for the bustard reserve at Apaj and it was all of about 30 seconds after the minibus stopped before the first Great Bustard did a magnificent flypast! We had a number of further sightings of these splendid birds as well as White Tailed Eagle and the first of the extremely common Marsh Harriers. Birds came thick and fast; with brief glimpses of those we were to see better later, but the crouched shape of a partially hidden stone curlew was a pleasing glimpse of this rare bird. While we stood there the first of the hundreds of Brown Hares we were due to see loped across the fields; it has been a real pleasure to see so many. We also enjoyed reasonable views of Collared Pratincole both flying and resting on the ground.
The final birding site was a pool with a variety of birds including both Black Necked Grebe [our St Aidan's bird] but also the much less common Red Necked Grebe with its distinctive white cheek patch. Suddenly a long eared owl took off from a nearby bush and flew in front of us with its eartufts tucked back but faintly visible; a wonderful sight.
We then endured a long and tedious drive to Nadudvar in the Hortobágy area with delays and traffic jams. A brief toilet stop produced a crested lark proving the first rule of birding 'Never leave your binoculars on the bus! 'We finally reached the Trofea Lodge by 8pm but luckily food was provided quickly and we all retired to bed after a long day.
Saturday May 11th
Some of us joined Andy for a spot of pre breakfast birding [PBB from now on!]. We were soon rewarded with wonderful views of Little Bitterns as well as Great Reed Warblers, a Golden Oriole and a Black Woodpecker with a chorus of turtle doves and nightingales in the back ground. We saw and heard the first of the ubiquitous Common Cuckoos; a real joy for those of us starved of this bird in the U.K.
After breakfast we set off in the minibus but stopped quickly to watch a pair of distant but distinct Saker Falcons - rare birds indeed. However closer views of raptors were in store as we walked round a clump of trees with a rookery, the nests of which were now occupied by a colony of Red Footed Falcons. We watched these elegant birds both flying and perching, able to appreciate the differences in the sexes.
The trees held a further surprise - a Long Eared Owl's nest with an adult and two large chicks; a photographer's delight. At a much greater distance Tamás spotted the Long Legged Buzzard he had been looking out for with its distinctive pale tail and also views of the suslik, the little ground squirrel of the Hortobágy that provides a meal for all these larger birds.
A brief toilet stop produced stunning views of a Nightingale in full throttle as well as Wood Warbler and Syrian Woodpecker proving that public conveniences are always rich picking grounds.
Onto the Tisza River for lunch at the Tiszacsege Csárda including a bowl of sublime fish soup - a local speciality, followed by views of a black woodpecker feeding on the ground tossing aside the leaf litter in search of ants.
The afternoon was spent on the wetlands with our first views of Ferruginous Ducks and a variety of herons of which a perched Black Crowned Night-heron was the highlight. We were also lucky to see a Penduline Tit intent on lining its beautifully crafted nest overhanging the water. Andy explained that the male may build several nests to confuse/deter predators. As our energy flagged we had to drag Tamás away from the birds and returned to the hotel tired but happy. The usual meal and checklist were quickly followed by bed.
Sunday May 12th
PBB gave views of the Little Bittern for some of those who missed it the first day and more of the usual suspects against an extraordinary level of bird song. Then off after breakfast with our first stop being the flooded fields near the Saker Falcon pylons where we had good views of Ruff, a Curlew Sandpiper and a male Pintail.
A large flock of Common Cranes flew overhead as we approached the Roller site where nesting boxes have been installed. We had good views of a pair of these colourful birds as well as Lesser Grey Shrike, Whinchat, Stonechat and Northern Wheatear.
Then on to the visitor centre for the Conservation Trust at Balmazujvaros for lunch and a wave at Tamás's daughter hopping up and down excitedly in her garden! As well as the herd of strange hairy pigs [Manganica], we saw a number of birds including a Lesser Ringed Plover [a LRP says happy Phillippa!] and four Temminck's Stints.
In the afternoon we swapped the minibus for horses and carts to venture deep into the marsh. No one could describe the journey in as smooth or relaxing [understatement] although we all survived the experience and were rewarded with another White Tailed Eagle, a pair of garganey, glossy ibis, a Fox as well as a Great Snipe flushed by Tamás [a lifer for Colin, Rosemary and Andy!]
All of this was accompanied by the croaking of fire bellied toads and continuing the reptilian theme Andy found a lime green European Tree Frog which he later claimed as his 'Bird of the Day'!!?
The journey back was calm thanks to a sleeping baby and some of the group witnessed a Goshawk cross in front of the cart - John was especially thrilled and decided this was his 'Bird of the Trip', not just the day! Sadly Janet then discovered she had lost her phone though the cart drivers promised to look for it as they drove back. Finally in the suburbs of Balmazujvaros, we had good views of a Black Redstart and close ups of a Syrian Woodpecker at their nesting hole; I'm sure we all agree their nasal hairs were pale!
We arrived back at little earlier for the usual routine of meal and checklist, while Tamás took a 4 wheel drive vehicle to search for Janet's phone; sadly no luck but what a star Tamás is!
Meanwhile we divided into three teams for Iain's Quiz with its mix of 'birdy'. Hungarian and General Knowledge questions, dredging our memories for details of ancient pop groups etc! Much fun was had by all so many thanks Iain!
Monday May 13th
PBB as usual with a strong breeze and a feeding siskin which caused Andy and Tamás some head scratching.
Then on to the Hortobágy Fish Ponds with some of the group glimpsing the trip's only Monatagu's Harrier [a Ringtail] from the bus. At the ponds we were able to admire and distinguish between the different marsh terns - Whiskered, Black and White Winged as well as a colony of Pygmy Cormorants and a host of other water birds including Spoonbill and Squacco Heron, to name but a few. Most of the group had reasonable views of an Icterine Warbler feeding in a large tree and then a frustrating glimpse of a bluethroat before we headed for our lunch destination at the Hortobágyi Csárda in Hortobágy Village.
Before entering the Travellers' Inn we strolled onto the Nine Arches Bridge which spans the River Hortobágy and was in the past a toll bridge on the salt route from Romania. From the bridge we were able to watch both Sedge and Reed Warblers from an elevated position above the reedbed. An excellent lunch was followed by the perusal of a collection of old photos and artefacts inside – a glimpse of a bygone era.
Finally, in the afternoon, we paid a short visit to Foldes Village Ponds where there is another smaller colony of Red Footed Falcons. We attempted to shelter from the strong wind in a wooden structure overlooking the ponds but soon gave up. For me the main bird of note was our first Purple Heron.
Tuesday May 14th
After a very windy night Andy was woken by the sound of a chain saw at 5.30am! A huge branch had blown down across the road in the middle of the night. The highlight of the PBB was a pair of Bee-eaters perched on a wire. Andy thought they were almost certainly migrating birds brought down by the storm.
After breakfast we said good bye to Trofea Lodge and headed to the city of Debrecan [the second largest in Hungary] and to the Great Wood. After a short walk we entered a large hide set up by Sakertours with an artificial pool just outside the window. We were able to watch a male Collared Flycatcher with a nesting box and then to our delight the water was visited by a number of birds including a Marsh Tit, a Great Spotted Woodpecker and both male and female Hawfinches [WOW!!]. The morning was topped off by a Red Squirrel; that's what I call easy wildlife watching!
Back to the Conservation Centre at Balmazujvaros for lunch with a repeat of most of the previous birds including good views of a Wood Sandpiper, then on to the Zemplén Hills as the weather worsened.
We parked the trailer and picked up local expert Zoltán (Zoli) in order to visit an Eagle Owl nesting site. We made our way carefully up a muddy slope to view the parent bird crouched on a quarry ledge protecting its fluffy chick from the elements. With a bit of imagination you could pick out its ear tufts bent sidewards in the wind but sadly its body was a huddled ball of feathers. The comment 'it's almost snowing' could be a caption for the group photo showing Wetherby U3A having fun on their holidays!
Safely back in the minibus we exchanged Zoli and the trailer and went on to the hotel Sólyomvár-lac in the village of Komlóska, where the central heating and hot water felt very welcome.
Wed 15th May
PBB was quiet but one or two nice views of now more familiar birds like Golden Orioles and Black Redstarts. Andy tried to tape a Wryneck as he had seen one during his pre-PBB session but no luck.
After breakfast we picked up Zoli and headed for the beech woods near the village of Erdőbénye where the first excitement was a Fire Salamander, a striking reptile I have always wanted to see. Zoli also showed us a Yellow Bellied Toad which is closely related to the Fire Bellied Toads we had heard in the Hortobágy. Zoli then led us on to the nest of an Ural Owl and there was the downy chick with its obvious yellow beak staring back at us from his tree stump. This was followed by first White Backed Woodpeckers and then Middle Spotted Woodpeckers, both with nest holes. Patience gave us good views of both birds. Finally he pointed out a Grey Headed Woodpecker nest hole but the bird was too fast for most of us; what a morning!
A fortifying lunch at the Lebuj Pincefogado at Bodrogkeresztúr was followed by a visit to wetlands where Tamás and Andy's perseverance gave us all reasonable or even good views of a pair of Little Crakes ; these are shy birds that creep semi-hidden through the reeds, rarely stepping into the open. Another bonus was a Savi's Warbler in full throat at the top of the reeds.
In a distant tree Zoli pointed out an Eastern Imperial Eagle's nest and we had good views of the male flying past. By venturing across the fields negotiating an electric fence, with an agitated herd of cattle alongside, we managed closer views of the female on her huge nest. This nest has apparently been used several years running which is quite unusual.
Back at the hotel five of us took the plunge and enjoyed the hot tub which was very relaxing. NB. Photographic evidence can be viewed under licence.
Thursday May 16th
PBB produced splendid views of a female Grey Headed Woodpecker posing on a pole, but still no Wryneck; will it be the 'bogey bird'? After breakfast we set off for the for the vineyards near Tolscava/Erdőbénye where we soon had good views of a Woodlark both perching and singing with its display flight. Then exciting views of our first Short Toed Eagle with its brown head and neck and pale undersides. This was followed by even better views of a Lesser Spotted Eagle which we saw both flying and then in a tree; we have done very well with raptors on this trip!
Onto a local picnic site/reserve where we finally saw the sought after Wryneck; what a relief. We were able to get at least some appreciation of its intricate and delicate plumage.
After lunch Zoli took us into the woods again to a Ural Owl nest box where we immediately disturbed the adult bird who flew through the trees and landed, peering at us through the leaves. The box has a mirror above it acting as a periscope to enable Zoli to inspect for eggs/chicks etc. As Zoli approached the box to check the mirror the owl swooped down nearly catching his bare head with its talons. This happened twice as Tamás acted as lookout to warn Zoli of the adult's approach.
What could match this experience? Well, maybe our views of the Black Woodpecker feeding its two huge chicks [one male, one female]. We were able to watch for several minutes as the chicks begged for food with the female chick winning out on this occasion. What an afternoon! Probably the highlight of the trip for many in the group.
Finally Tamás tried hard at several sites for Barred Warblers [maybe especially for me?]. We had brief glimpses of the display flights but on landing the birds were quick to disappear. We were however very pleased to see a second Wryneck. As is usual the Barred Warbler sites contained numbers of Red Backed Shrikes who were much more co-operative and showed themselves well from the tops of the shrubs. Andy said that the co-existence of these two species is poorly understood.
Back early to shower and change for our big night out, then off to the home of a local winegrower 'Hangavári Pincészet ' who produces some of the region's famous Tokai wines. The warm welcome we received was followed by a brief tour of the cellars and information about the estate and the wine production. Then everyone [well almost everyone!] enjoyed a fabulous meal accompanied by generous tastings of eight different wines moving from dry to sweet.
It made an excellent last evening for the trip and we returned merrily to the hotel and bed.
Friday May 17th
No PBB this morning; did you think everyone would be sleeping it off Andy? Thank you for all your sterling work during the early hours and your even earlier walks with Beryl.
Leaving the hotel at 9.30am we returned to the most promising barred warbler site for more views of sporadic display sights and brief landings but we were pleased to see Barbara's kingfisher of the previous day put in an appearance. We also had our best views yet of a black stork in the middle distance, rather like a photographic negative of the many white storks we have seen.
Then a picnic lunch and coffee stop en route to get us nearer to Budapest, before returning to the first area we visited a week ago [yes, it was only a week!]. Here we saw our only Red Crested Pochard of the trip and some final brilliant views of a Little Bittern; a fitting way to end our Hungarian birding.
There followed a smooth journey to the airport, goodbyes with Tamás and our driver, before an 'on time' flight and very swift baggage return at Leeds/ Bradford.
The crowds in the baggage hall meant that saying goodbye to everyone was difficult so this is my opportunity to say 'Thank you' to everyone for their company and input this week with the biggest thanks due to Andy, Tamás and Zoli for all their amazing skill, knowledge and hard work.