Rjukan 2024 SMC Trip Report

Dear SMC,

It was painful setting an alarm for a 3am departure, but thoughts that we’d soon be ice climbing in Rjukan made it possible to crawl out of bed. 

Simon, Tim, Ed and myself car shared to Heathrow, where everything went smoothly and we remembered to take a photo of where we’d parked the car. We were flying out of Terminal 2, and returning via Terminal 3. Thankfully, we found that the terminals are very close to each other, and connected by indoor travelators. The flight offered great views of Oslo, covered in snow, with people ice skating on the frozen fjord. The temperature was a shocking -12° when we landed! Here, we met up with Roddy, the last member of our party. The hire car company gave us a 2 tier upgrade, and our vehicles were kitted out with fancy features such as heated seats and heated steering wheel; just what we needed (once we’d discovered these features)!

The drive to Rjukan was scenic, icy, and entertaining with the many Moose Warning signs. The Tinnsja lake (at the opening of Rjukan Valley) was frozen over. We arrived at our cosy and authentic lodgings at Rjukan Hytteby. We were the end cottage in a traditionally colourful row. Ed, Tim and myself shared the mezzanine, and Simon and Roddy fought over the bunk beds. We agreed to take it in turns to cook each night, and celebrate by eating at the accommodation restaurant on the final night. Roddy cooked up a tasty stir fry on the first night; perfect after a long day of travelling. Simon spoiled us by providing cake and custard for pudding.

Climbing Day 1: Ozzimosis 

A perfect introduction to the winter wonderland. Parking was sparse, so it was an early start for us. It paid off as we were the first to arrive at the lay-by, and parked deep in snow. We started with waterice grade 2 climbs, as the crag begun to fill with more climbers arriving. The classic climb Ozzimosis was available, which Simon and Tim took the opportunity to lead, before heading down to the lower level of the crag for more climbs. Tim took on a route that seemed to last an entire rope length. Ed cooked up a tasty chilly with rice and tortilla chips. This hit the spot after a long day of climbing.

Climbing Day 2: Vemork Bridge and Upper Gorge 

A full day of snowfall. An early start again, for the big multipitch Vemorkbrufoss Ost (WI Grade 4), followed by Nedre Svingfoss. Well led by Simon and Tim.

There were good views of climbers on Sabotorfossen.

The climbs were approached over the frozen river at the bottom of the gorge. We could see some WWII history as Vemork power plant was the stage of the Norwegian Heavy Water Sabotage. Our climbs in the gorge were far less perilous. We needed a hearty meal after a big day of climbing, and Tim cooked up a curry and naan feast (Ed had a carton of cream as a starter, which he mistakenly bought, and didn’t want to waste).

Climbing Day 3: Krokan

A cragging day at Krokan. The highlights being Bullen and Jomfrau, in another winter wonderland setting. The crag was busy and we were starting to recognise familiar faces from previous days. It was my turn to cook, and I circled it back to stir fry. It was Shrove Tuesday, so it would have been rude not to eat pancakes after a long day of cragging. Just what we needed.

Final Climbing Day: Fabrikkfossen

This was a big multipitch for the final day. The walk in started in an industrial estate, and quickly turned into a savage ascent on a steep snow path. We made good time, reaching the climb in roughly 30 mins. 7 pitches still laid ahead of us. We climbed in pairs: Simon and myself; Tim and Ed. Occasionally the cloud lifted to reveal glorious views of the valley, which we were now high enough to enjoy for the first time. After 4 pitches, the climb levelled off onto “lunchtime ledge”. This was covered in waist deep snow which was a fun battle to pass through (even more entertaining watching Ed tackle it after me). A long, straightforward, chilly series of abseils got us back to the approach path. Car-door to car-door: 8 hours. We’d understandably built up a big appetite. Thankfully, the local restaurant was serving the largest pizzas imaginable. Just what we needed. 

It was an early start the following morning to return to Oslo airport. The 2 cars soon separated, and then got caught in Oslo rush hour congestion. When we stopped near the airport for fuel, I couldn’t believe my eyes when I looked up and saw the other car was still with us after all. It was another opportunity to say farewell to Tim, who was staying an extra day in Oslo.

A big thank you goes to Simon for organising the trip, and everyone else for making it a top trip!

Kind regards,

Alastair