Haguro
Shugendo and the Legend of Prince Hachiko
Mt. Haguro and the nearby mountains of Gassan and Yudono are known as sacred lands for Shugendo, an ascetic religion which combines the three elements of mountain worship (nature worship), Shintoism, and esoteric Buddhism. During the Asuka Period (592), the Emperor was assassinated by his court vassal. His son, Prince Hachiko felt he was in danger and fled from the capital, present-day Nara City, to the shores of Yura. He studied ascetic practices on Mt. Haguro, Mt. Gassan, and Mt. Yudono, and is said to have founded Shugendo. His grave can be found on top of Mt. Haguro, and even today the gravesite is imperial property. However, academically speaking, the accepted theory is that Shugendo was formed during the Kamakura Period (1185–1333), meaning it is a bit of a stretch to tie the legend of Prince Hachiko with Shugendo. Nevertheless, the legend of Prince Hachiko has given importance to the history of Mt. Haguro and is thought to have inspired the reverence of people.
Lodging Houses, Zuishin Gate, and Stone Steps
There are 34 lodging houses in the Toge area located in front of the temple gate at the foot of Mt. Haguro. Many pilgrims stay in these lodging houses to prepare for their religious training and to rest afterward. The gate is called Zuishin. The area from Zuishin Gate to the top of Mt. Haguro is considered holy ground for the Shugendo religion. The two guardians on either side of the gate stand watch so that evil spirits do not enter the sacred place. There are 2,446 stone steps leading to the top, over a distance of 1.7 kilometers. Along the way are 33 engravings on the stone steps with designs such as sake cups, sake bottles, and human faces. Find 18 of them, and one of your wishes will come true. Find all of them, and all of your wishes will come true.
Rows of Cedar Trees, Harai River, and Suga Falls
The stone steps are flanked by giant cedar trees that are 300 to 500 years old. There are 280 on the left and 300 on the right. They have been designated national special natural monuments and were awarded three stars in Michelin Green Guide Japan 2009. The Harai River flows between Mt. Gassan and Mt. Yudono. Shugendo pilgrims purify their bodies in the river before beginning their ascetic practices, even in winter. The waterfall to the right of the river is called Suga Falls.
Grandfather Cedar Tree and Grandmother Cedar Tree
A big cedar tree appears on the left along the walk up the stone steps. Called the Grandfather Cedar Tree, it has a trunk circumference of 10 meters and is the oldest cedar tree on the mountain at 1,000 years old. It has been designated a national special natural monument. There was once another old cedar tree behind it called the Grandmother Cedar Tree. They were well known as the husband-and-wife cedar trees, but unfortunately, the Grandmother Cedar Tree was felled by strong winds 100 years ago.
Five-story Pagoda
This five-story pagoda featuring beautiful Buddhist-style architecture was designated a national treasure in 1965. It is said to have been built between 931 and 938 by Taira no Masakado who belonged to a powerful family in Kanto. The building standing today is a reconstructed pagoda built in 1403. Each of the five stories has a meaning; starting at the bottom, the floors represent earth, water, fire, wind, and sky. No nails were used in the building of the basic construction. A central pillar hangs down from the fifth to the first story, but is only fastened at the top. In present-day construction this technique is called seismic base isolation, and its purpose is to protect the pagoda from a strong earthquake. It is astonishing that such a technique existed over 1,000 years ago. Today, this same base isolation function is used in the 634-meter tall Tokyo Skytree.
Temple Ruins
There is an expansive open area halfway up the stone-steps on the right where a Buddhist temple stood until the 1870s in the beginning of the Meiji period. That temple was destroyed when the Meiji government transferred the ruling power from Tokugawa Shogun to the emperor in 1868. At that time, the emperor was likened to a god in the Shinto religion, and Buddhism was expunged as it was seen as an obstacle to the emperor’s authority. The continued existence of Shugendo was also threatened, but since it consisted of three religions—mountain worship, Shintoism, and esoteric Buddhism, its continued existence was permitted by cutting ties with Buddhism.
The Top of Mt. Haguro
The biggest building at the top of Mt. Haguro is a central Shugendo shrine. The three sacred mountains of Mt. Haguro, Mt. Gassan, and Mt. Yudono that are essential to Haguro Shugendo are worshipped here. Mt. Haguro signifies the present world, Mt. Gassan the past world, and Mt. Yudono the future world. Pilgrims practice religious training in accordance with this belief.
Mirror Pond
There is a pond in front of the grand shrine from which approximately 500 bronze mirrors have been excavated. In the past, women were prohibited from climbing the sacred land of Mt. Haguro, so in their place, men threw mirrors into the pond as offerings to pray for happiness and good health.
Temple Bell
The bell at the top of Mt. Haguro was donated by the Kamakura Shogunate in gratitude for protecting Japan from a Mongolian invasion in 1275. It is the largest temple bell in northeast Japan and the third largest in all of Japan. It has been designated a national important cultural property. This bell is struck 108 times between year’s end and New Year’s. It is believed that humans have 108 worldly desires, so the bell is struck to free humankind from those worldly desires as the new year is welcomed.
(Koichi Ito et al., VIPS)
The photos on this page are courtesy of the Shonai Visitors Association.