The pump of a septic tank is a container that is usually submerged into the septic tank or hermetically sealed pit, it is mostly installed in a chamber or separately behind the septic tank in its own unit. The septic tank pump is a small, electrically controlled device which operates efficiently within the wastewater. Septic tank pumps are also more commonly known as sewage ejector and effluent pumps. Sewage ejector pumps and effluent pumps pretty much work the exact same way as a septic tank pump, so ultimately the names are only different as the function is exactly the same in all three units. Sometimes the chambers or pits which house the pump are installed inside the basement of the home, or outside below the finished grade level of the yard.
Sewage effluent pumps are located in a sewage effluent pump pit and use impeller vanes to break up solid waste and send it into your septic tank or sewage system. A good sewage ejector pump, provided it is properly maintained, should last at least seven to ten years, with many lasting upwards of two or three decades.
The pump has attached to it, a small impeller which spins, projecting the water into the pipes which are attached to the pump. A switch intermittently turns the pump off and on as water fills the chamber of the tank. The rising effluent/wastewater level is obviously the determining factor for when the effluent pump is activated. In rare instances, the sewage ejector pump pit will emit foul odors and septic gas which can be very dangerous, as methane sewer gas is very explosive. If you smell septic gas leaking into your basement or crawlspace you should have it checked immediately by a licensed septic inspection company before a more serious problem arises. You can find more information on engineered septic systems, daily septic system tips and tricks at Septic System News.Com's website.
A pump to a septic tank is like a beating heart to a human being. Without a working pump in the tank, the septic system temporarily dies.
This device is of utmost importance, especially when you need to clear up the debris in your sewage system. It’s indeed of utmost importance when the percolation area is raised or you have a soak away. It’s also necessary when the septic effluent area of disposal is upslope in the septic tank, hence neither the debris or wastewater can flow up on its own. See more about ejectors pumps on our news blog.
The septic tank has been around since the 1900s. It is a tank that decomposes water waste from the house through natural bacterial activities. The typical tank is a watertight container made up of different types of plastics, fiberglass or concrete, with a lid which is usually made with concrete material for durability purposes. Researching septic tanks before purchase is a must prior to installation, as there are many differences in materials and pricing. Some tanks are made of polyethylene and some of the poured concrete, and yet others are formed and constructed out of layers of fiberglass and resin.
It is a regular sized, easily treatable disposal unit which is fitted to the ground. It’s made up of the tank in its entirety and an absorption area of special septic soil or sand for proper percolation.
Septic tank and pump corrosion or over pumping sometimes damage these pumps, and as a result, grease, oil, and debris flow freely into the pump ultimately killing the pump. Any pump that's clogged will not work efficiently and will not be able to remove waste water, this, in turn, may affect the septic tank adversely. Properly scheduled septic tank cleaning every three to five years will go a long way toward preserving your tank, no matter what material it has been manufactured from.
1. From the electric panel in the home, turn off the breaker to the septic tank pump.
2. Note the electric wire and unplug it. If hardwired, unscrew the three wire nuts from the hot, neutral and ground wires on the ejector pump.
3. There's a manhole covering the chamber of the tank's pump, remove it and keep it to the side.
4. There's a union that connects the pump to the plumbing. Disconnect them from each other.
5. There's a lift rope attached to the tank, use it to raise up the pump from the tank and keep it aside on the ground (ensure to wear proper protective clothing during this exercise).
6. Turn the pump upside-down so that whatever dirt or debris in it can be emptied out. Put the impeller under a water hose to clean it and let the force remove any debris that remains.
7. Replace your pump back into the septic tank.
Sometimes you may need to replace the pump altogether. Here are four steps on what to do when replacing a worn-out septic pump.
Once you have lowered the new pump back into the septic tank:
1. Put back the union joint that's part of the pump.
2. Connect the pump to the special connector and electric panel. Then turn the breaker switch on that is designated for the septic tank pump.
3. Check for the buttons on the new pump that state 'On/Off', and switch it to 'On'.
4. From the water drop level, you can tell if the pump is working. Confirm this visually when testing your new pump and the entire pump system.
We have done our best trying to explain all there is to know about sewage ejector pumps and how they operate by pumping the liquid effluent out from the top of the septic tank to the discharge pipe then to the first drop box or distribution box, and finally into the leach fields for groundwater and onsite wastewater treatment processing. Although, please be careful not to confuse a sewage ejector pump with a sewage grinder pump as the two are completely different in design and operation. Edward Horbachuk III and the gang will dedicate a blog post or website page on sewage grinder pumps versus sewage ejector pumps in the near future.