2.Creating Your Own Worm Bin

This can be done in 6 Easy Steps:

1. Obtain the Container(s), Hand Cultivator and Poster

2. Drill the Holes

3. Add the Bedding

4. Add the Red Wigglers

5. Feed the Worms

6. "Share the Worms and Harvest the Black Gold" Day

Children enjoy participating in the process, especially steps 3 through 6. References differ in their recommendations and some make the process much more complicated than it needs to be. We have researched and experimented (for over 7 years) with different bin designs and procedures. The following are from the most reputable sites and were found to be the simplest, most effective and fun:

1. Obtain the Container(s), Hand Cultivator and Poster

-Any container with a lid is fine as long as it is opaque (Worms avoid light). The larger the container the more worms and more composting it will support. If your container is kept out-doors, latching lids may be needed if racoons are a problem.

-References differ as to the ideal height. Most agree that Red Wigglers prefer to live in the top 6-10 inches of soil, so any container 8 inches or higher will work fine. The example shown is 15 gallons with a height of about 12 inches.

a. In-Door Bins (One and One-half Container System):

-We utilize 3 containers with covers to make 2 indoor worm bins (One and One-half container system) using the container as the collecting base for one (Bin A), and the lid as the collecting base for the other (Bin B).

-After a few months you will have worms to give away, and the extra worm bin makes a really great gift!

-People often keep their bins in their their basements, especially in colder climates, and in their garage or patio in warmer climates. Others keep them in kitchens or closets. College students sometimes keep them under their beds.

-For indoor and patio bins, a bottom container or tray is included to catch any possible seepage (leachate). However this will not occur unless the bin is too moist.

-The Worm Tea (Leachate) Controversy: Sometimes there is a little seepage (leachate) from the bottom of the bin (also called "Worm Tea"). This is different from the aerated worm tea systems promoted by sites that state the leachate tea could be harmful. Other sites, including those from the best referenced sources we could find (See page 3) report that this leachate worm tea, like worm compost, is a valuable fertilizer which is also recommended by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. However, it can be quite potent and should be diluted (Usually 1 part to 10 parts water) prior to use.

-In any case, if your bin is properly maintained there should be no, or very little, seepage in the first place. If there is leachate in the bottom bin or tray, it is a sign that the worm bin is too moist and you need to add dry bedding.

-Aerobic composting is increased and seepage is also decreased by increasing air circulation through the bottom holes: For Bin A simply place the top bin on tin cans in each of the four corners of the bottom bin. For Bin B, 4 inch diameter cans, or a couple bricks are recommended for stability purposes. Others glue small blocks of wood to the 4 corners.

b. Out-Door Bins (One container System):

-For outdoors on the ground, a one container bin works fine. Just set it in a shaded area. As noted above, you should also set the bin on cans, bricks or rocks to increase air circulation.

-Do not set the bin in the sun, or expose to hot or cold temperatures. References report that although worms can survive somewhat higher or lower temperatures, they do best between 55 to 77 degrees F.

c. The 3-pronged garden hand cultivator works well for "fluffing" (aeration) as well as burying the food (Studies indicate that worms feel no pain and can even regenerate if cut in half, so even if a worm doesn't move fast enough, children can be reassured that the cultivator shouldn't cause significant harm).

d. Bin Cover Poster 11x17 inch can be downloaded here. The school or class can add its name to the space above "OUR SAVE THE WORLD VERMICOMPOST BIN." The poster can be laminated and glued to the cover.

2. Drill the Holes
-Hole sizes, sites and numbers vary depending on the reference.
-For air circulation: We use 3/8 inch holes, 24 of them, located near the top.
-For additional air circulation (as well as any drainage): We use 3/8 inch holes, at least 12 of them through the bottom.
-For outdoor bins, smaller holes (with correspondingly larger numbers) are recommended if mice or other rodents may be a problem.
-If the bin will be exposed to the rain, no holes should be drilled in the cover.
-If your cover has the above laminated poster and more aeration is needed you can add holes around the edges.

3. Add the Bedding
-Some sites recommend adding a couple layers of newspaper to the bottom of the bin to keep the worms from escaping when they are first transferred to the bin (If you do this you will need to use the collecting base to prepare the bedding and transfer the contents after thorough mixing). After all the contents have been added to the bin, additional newspapers or paper bags are also often added to the top of the bin contents. Escape attempts don't seem to be a problem once the worms have settled down and are familiar with their new home.

-Fill the bin about 1/2 full with bedding. The bedding will eventually be eaten as well. Numerous materials can be recycled: Leaves, garden waste that has not been exposed to insecticides or other chemicals, shredded (not shiny) newspaper and junk mail, cut up cardboard (about 2 inch pieces), etc. Peat moss or coconut coir are also often added.

-Children often enjoy tearing newspaper into strips about 1 inch wide--Tear from top to bottom (lengthwise). Nearly all black newspaper ink is made from soy. Do not use shiny paper. Some references suggest avoiding colored paper as well.

-Once shredded, the paper can be placed in a bucket of water (rainwater, if available, is ideal) to presoak, then squeezed to remove most of the water prior to adding to the bin.

-Some sites recommend leaving tap water stand for several days to remove the chlorine prior to using it for the worm bin to prevent harming the beneficial composting bacteria. Other sites report this may not be essential. Colorado State University reports: "Under normal conditions, chlorinated water will not threaten microorganism populations. Microorganisms reproduce rapidly. In one study, researchers continuously applied highly chlorinated water to soil for 126 days. Two days after they stopped, the soil microorganism populations reached pre-treatment levels at all depths of soil." We usually let tap water stand for several days just to be on the safe side (In areas that conserve water, this is often readily available from the container used to collect bathroom shower "warm-up water").

-Add a few handfuls of dirt to aid digestion and promote the composting process.

-Mix thoroughly (can use the hand cultivator). If the bedding feels dry, sprinkle with water. The final bedding should be slightly moist-Firm hand squeeze results in a couple drops of water.

-It should then be "fluffed" to allow air pockets. This is especially needed when using newspaper bedding. The hand cultivator works well, or you can use your hands.

-After the initial setup, adding additional water is rarely necessary, except in hot dry climates.

-Additional newspaper or dried leaves can be added if the bedding becomes too wet.

-Occasional "fluffing" (Usually to the quadrant prior to adding additional food) is also recommended to increase aeration.

4. Add the Red Wigglers
-Children often enjoy watching them burrow down.

-Make certain the worms are Red Wigglers (Eisenia Fetida or Lumbricus Rubellus). Other types of earthworms need much deeper soil and may not survive in bins.

5. Feed the Worms

a. What to Feed the Worms:

-Fruits & vegetables (Raw or cooked).

-Coffee grounds & filters. Tea bags.

-Starchy food waste (Bread, pasta--No butter or oils).

-Garden waste. Grass clippings.

b. Do Not Feed the Worms:

-Meat, dairy or poultry products.

-Highly processed foods.

-Raw egg shells (Can carry diseases such as Salmonella). Hardboiled are fine.

-Insecticide or chemically treated plants.

c. How to Feed the Worms:

-To prevent fruit flies and odors, use the hand cultivator to dig a hole and bury the food. Cover with an inch or so of bedding.

-Placing food sequentially in 4 quadrants, rotating clockwise around the bin is usually recommended.

-Recommendations for frequency of feedings differ. We usually provide 1 or 2 feeding/week, however this varies depending on feeding size, number of worms in the bin, and whether we are traveling.

-Overfeeding could result in fruit flies or odors. So check the quadrant in which you plan to add the food and wait until the previous food has been digested before adding more.--It is this that determines the actual feeding amount and frequency.

-We place a small card or other marker so we remember in which quadrant we buried the last feeding.

6. "Share the Worms and Harvest the Black Gold" Day

This can occur about every few months to a year or so (Time varies depending on the number of worms in your bin). Gardeners call the vermicompost (worm fertilizer) "Black Gold" because it is so valuable for their crops (In addition to being the highest quality fertilizer, it actually helps fight plant disease). Pre-schoolers usually just call it "Worm-Poop."

a. There are two methods for separating worms from the "Black Gold":

1) We use the "Migration" method:

-A few weeks prior to the time you wish to harvest the vermicompost, begin feeding your worms on one side of the bin. Most of the worms will migrate to that side of the bin.

-After a couple weeks check to see if most of the worms have migrated (this varies depending on the amount of food and number of worms in the bin). If most of the worms have migrated, scoop the vermicompost out of that side of the bin. A few worms will remain on the vermicompost side, but that is fine as they will continue their recycling work in your garden or potted plant.

2) OR you can use the "Dump and Hand Separate" alternative to the "Migration" Method:

-Dump the bin contents on a plastic sheet or newspaper. Make cone shaped piles.

-Wait for the worms to burrow down (to avoid the light). Scoop off the top of the cones for compost.

-Repeat.

b. Use the Vermicompost as fertilizer for your garden or house plants. Vermicompost is 100% organic and it is the very best fertilizer you could possibly use on your garden.

c. Share your worms. Worms self-regulate their population, so removing some is not necessary. However, if you wish to share your worms:
Migration method: Scoop up some of the remaining bedding/compost with its worms into a separate container.
Dump and Hand Separate Method: Scoop up some of the worms into a separate container.
The above can go to new bins to be given by your class to other classes, schools or families to begin their own "Save the World" projects. Also great for school fund-raising raffles.

d. Add new bedding
Migration method: Add new bedding to the emptied side of the bin. Fluff it up and begin feeding your worms on that side to repeat the process.
Dump and Hand Separate Method: Add new bedding to the entire bed.
If you have given worms away they will need less food at first, however they will soon increase to their previous numbers.

For additional information and lesson plans to meet education objectives see page 3 Vermicomposting Curricula & References