Background

JOINING THE SOCIETY

Experienced backpackers who are properly equipped and in excellent physical condition are invited to join us on an introductory trip. Tents, cooks who provide Saturday dinner and Sunday breakfast, and car-pool transportation will be arranged by the trip leader. Each climber provides their own trail lunches for the climb. Trail food must fit conveniently in pockets since winter conditions often preclude more than brief pauses for food and water.

PHYSICAL CONDITIONING

Physical conditioning is the single most important predictor of success and enjoyment on winter climbs. Climbing on snowshoes in deep snow with a full pack is strenuous. Couple that with the rapid cooling that accompanies rest stops and it is clear that winter climbing requires steady output with short pauses for equipment adjustments, food, and photography. Expect winter climbing to be more demanding than summer climbing.

BASIC EQUIPMENT

Backpack, insulated boots, gaiters, snowshoes with good bindings and aggressive crampons, ski poles (optional), winter sleeping bag, extra-warm sleeping pad, headlamp, insulated water bottles, plastic bowl, cup, spoon, overmitts with liners ( spares ), warm socks, shell jacket, waterproof shell pants or bibs, synthetic long underwear, synthetic insulation layers to wear while hiking, extra-warm synthetic or down jacket to wear in camp, hat, facemask or balaclava for windy summits, ice axe and full crampons (if going above treeline), ski goggles (if going above treeline). The trip leader will organize tents and cooking gear for the group.

Equipment preferences vary greatly from person to person. You will have to learn what works best for you. Do not blindly trust equipment recommendations from people at sporting goods stores, reviews in magazines, or recommendations from friends. Try before you buy whenever possible. Many winter specific items can be rented or borrowed. Snowshoes in particular should be rented and tried in the Adirondacks before you buy. Some suggestions and recommendations are given below for your consideration. You don’t need to buy a lot of expensive gear for winter trips. For your first few winter trips you should buy as little gear as possible in case you find that winter hiking and camping is not to your liking.

The best stores to purchase equipment in Rochester are EMS and REI. You can often find great deals on equipment, particularly clothing, online at www.rei-outlet.com or www.sierratradingpost.com .

Snowshoe selection is especially critical. If you do not have snowshoes you can rent them from REI but make sure to reserve them well in advance. Good snowshoes have aggressive steel crampons for traction, and secure bindings to hold them firmly to your boots. Most RWMS members use 30” snowshoes, but some lighter members of the group use 25” snowshoes. Snowshoes that are 36” or longer are not recommended. Aluminum crampons are not recommended (steel is much more durable). The most popular brands include Atlas (8 series, 10 series, 12 series), Tubbs (Elevation Series or Mountain Series), and MSR (Denali Ascent or Evolution). As you go up in price you get better durability, more secure bindings, larger crampons for improved traction on steep terrain, and additional weight. Make sure the bindings fit your insulated boots and can be adjusted with mitten-covered hands. You can often order different bindings or crampons from the snowshoe manufacturer. One feature to note is the hinge that attaches the binding to the snowshoe. Some snowshoes have the tails drag when you lift your foot; other have the tail lift with your foot. People tend to strongly prefer one type of hinge over the other. Hinges do occasionally break so bring a few repair items.

Backpacks used in the winter have to be large enough to carry bulky winter gear. A pack volume of 100 liters (6000 cubic inches) is recommended in winter.

Sleeping Bags and Pads that will keep you warm are essential for winter camping. A down bag rated to about -20F is recommended. Another recommended option is to use two sleeping bags, typically a three season bag (rated 10 to 20F) placed inside a summer bag (rated 30 to 40F). The two bag method is usually cheaper and it may provide better warmth. Whichever method you use, a fully lofted winter sleeping bag is 8-10” thick and weigh around 4 lbs for a -20 degree bag. Less expensive down bags are available but they will weigh a little more. It is also possible to get a two sleeping bag solution to be around 4 lbs total. Note that warmth ratings differ by manufacturer so it often works best to compare loft. Make sure the outside of the sleeping bag is made of water resistant fabric. Down is significantly lighter and less bulky than synthetic insulation in a winter weight bag. A vapor barrier sleeping bag liner is suggested if you are out more than two nights to keep the insulation from absorbing perspiration. A sleeping pad is just as important as a sleeping bag for warmth. Sleeping on snow at any outside temperature requires a thick pad. A single 1” or 1.5” lightweight thermarest is not warm enough on its own. Popular options include: 2 thermarests, 1 thermarest and 1 closed cell foam pad, or one 2” thick thermarest. Bring a thermarest repair kit.

Boots must be very well insulated, comfortable, and waterproof. Plastic mountaineering boots, leather pac boots, and insulated leather boots can be used. Make sure they fit in the bindings of your snowshoes. Temperature ratings for boots are not always accurate. Boots rated at -40 F or below should keep you warm. Boots rated at -25F are more common but many find them to not be warm enough. Warmth requirements vary greatly

from person to person. Purchase boots a little large to give room for thick socks. Look for boots with excellent ankle flexibility and stiff soles. Most winter boots are too tall and somewhat inflexible which may bother your shins or ankles on steep hills. The ideal boot height for snowshoeing is about 6 to 7.5 inches but warm boots are difficult to find that low. Snowshoes put extra stress on the ball of your foot which is better handled by stiff soled boots. Keep in mind the total weight of boots and snowshoes. Note that breathability is not important but waterproofness is important.

Shell Jacket and Pants are essential outer garments. These are not insulated; warmth is added with layers of undergarments. Their purpose is to shed snow and wind. Waterproof / breathable raingear you use on summer hikes usually works well in the winter. The jacket must have a hood and a full length zipper for ventilation. Zippers in the armpits and pockets also help with ventilation. Pants or bibs also benefit from ventilation zippers. Some people prefer bibs because they keep snow from getting up your back. Waterproof / breathable Gore-Tex has long been the fabric of choice for mountaineers but less expensive waterproof breathable alternatives are available that work extremely well. Modern trends are towards shells that are more breathable and not totally waterproof but still shed snow and block wind. These newer water resistant “softshells” and “windshirts” have a wider comfort range than waterproof breathable fabrics but they are often very expensive. Top brands like Marmot, Patagonia, Mountain Hardware, Arc’teryx all make outstanding shells and even their relatively inexpensive entry level products tend to be very good.

Gaiters are important for keeping snow out of your boots. Highly breathable ones that are not waterproof are best. Outdoor Research is the most popular brand for gaiters. Some mountaineering pants have built in gaiters that can work very well if they fit your boots.

Undergarments must be made of quick drying synthetic fabrics. Midweight or heavyweight long underwear tops and bottoms are worn against the skin with a shell jacket and pants over them. Under most winter conditions additional insulation is not needed because heavy exertion keeps you warm. Additional insulation layers are added/removed under your shell jacket when needed. Good quality synthetic undergarments will wick perspiration away from your skin and passes through your breathable outergarments to keep your skin dry. Patagonia Capilene has long been the gold standard for undergarments but the other major gear companies make comparable products. EMS and REI offer excellent undergarments and insulation for less money.

Insulation layers are worn for extra warmth when needed. Different insulation layers are necessary for the two distinct occasions when extra warmth is needed: while hiking and while in camp. Good insulation for hiking include mid-weight polyester fleece, wool sweaters, synthetic fill jackets, and lined windshirts. Most people bring one or two mid- weight Polartec fleece pullovers or jackets for insulation. Down should not be worn while hiking as perspiration drastically reduces its insulating properties.

Extra-warm down or synthetic-fill jackets are worn in camp where you need high loft insulation to keep you warm in very cold conditions when you are not moving. Insulation takes up lots of space in your pack so highly compressible items are best.

Socks keep your feet warm and dry. Some people wear thin synthetic liner socks against the skin with a heavy wool or synthetic sock over it. If perspiration is a problem for you a vapor barrier sock or plastic bag between these two sock layers to keep your outer sock and boot dry. Antiperspirant can also be applied to your feet to reduce perspiration. Neoprene socks are an alternative that are waterproof and extremely warm but less comfortable and can cause blisters. If you don’t mind the expense, smartwool mountaineer socks are fantastic.

Liner gloves are worn under mitten shells while hiking. The shells provide waterproof protection and the liner gloves can be changed when they get wet from perspiration. Bring several pairs of thin synthetic liner gloves and some warmer gloves/mittens. Thick boiled wool mittens which breathe, absorb moisture, and are water resistant are an alternative to synthetics. A pair of heavy mittens is recommended for camp. You really can’t bring too many pairs of gloves in the winter. Outdoor Research (OR) makes the waterproof mitten shells that just about everyone uses. EMS carries a good selection of gloves and mittens suitable for hiking and camping.

Hats or Balaclavas are worn while hiking and in camp. These can be fleece or wool. A balaclava is essential to protect your face from strong winds on summits above treeline, and are often worn while sleeping. Ski goggles protect your eyes from blowing snow and ice but these are rarely needed and you don’t need to bring them unless you expect to spend a lot of time above treeline.

Crampons, ice axe are not always needed in the Adirondacks. When climbing slides or high peaks that are well above tree-line like Marcy, Algonquin, Gothics, and Haystack these items must be brought for safety. A mountaineering ice axe is 65 to 75 cm long and is quite different than an ice-climbing axe. Axes are used to assist in climbing steep spots and to stop or slow your descent if you fall on a steep slope above treeline. Crampons should be 10-point or 12-point and must fit your boots.

Nalgene water bottles (32 oz) are used by everyone. These have a wide mouth and are virtually indestructible. Fill bottles with boiling water and then put them in an insulated bottle holder or a thick sock in your pack. Outdoor Research and EMS make insulated water bottle holders. Most people bring 2-3 water bottles.

Other items:

Sunglasses or ski goggles are useful in bright sun and exposed summits.

Headlamps are essential for winter mountaineering. You need to have your hands free for setting up tents, cooking, eating, etc., in the dark.

Lithium Batteries should be used whenever possible as alkaline batteries perform poorly below freezing. Lithium will work down to -40F or so and will last many times longer

than alkaline batteries. Energizer makes AA lithium batteries that work great in flashlights.

Down booties are great to wear in camp. Sierra Designs makes good inexpensive booties. These don’t need to be waterproof.

Cooking Stoves must burn white gas and you will want at least 12 oz of fuel per person per night. Melting snow for water consumes enormous amounts of fuel. Propane/butane stoves don’t work below freezing. MSR stoves are popular. Quiet stoves like the whisperlight are a big plus. An adjustable flame is not very important in the winter as you want the hottest stove you can get. You will need to set the stove on a base to keep it from sinking into snow. Winter is particularly hard on stoves and they often clog or have failures. Bring a stove repair kit and make sure the stove is clean and well maintained before the trip. Purchase fresh gas for the season and discard gas more than a year old. A winter camping group must bring at least two stoves. Bring waterproof matches and a lighter that works when wet like a cricket electric lighter.

Trail Food must be edible when frozen. Cheese, almonds, snickers, and summer sausage are all edible when frozen. If in doubt, throw it in the freezer and try it.

EXPENSES

Costs will vary, but the following are typical:

Carpool transportation, including tolls

$ 35.00

Motel

60.00

Saturday Breakfast

15.00

Camp meals (two)

25.00

Sunday Dinner

25.00

Total

$160.00

Drivers are encouraged to charge passengers enough to cover actual costs, but should take into consideration the number of passengers carried. These costs reflect the special problems of winter driving and backcountry roads. The intention is to equalize the burden between those who drive and those who don't, for whatever reason. Trips to more distant destinations will have proportionately higher transportation costs. After the first year, members are expected to participate in leading trips, driving and cooking/tenting.

SIGNING-UP

Email or call the trip leader for a reservation by the indicated deadline. Trip leaders will evaluate new members according to the criteria outlined above. The number of participants on any trip will be limited at the leader's discretion. Email early to avoid disappointment.

The trip leaders are experienced and are recognized for their excellent judgment, but at the same time it is understood that climbing carries with it certain inherent dangers. Those who choose to climb with the group assume responsibility for their own safety.

Successful participants of the introductory trips become members of the Society and are eligible to sign up for future trips.

RWMS - Rochester Winter Mountaineering Society