MAYTAG ATLANTIS WASHER REPAIR

Maytag Atlantis Washer Repair

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Step By Step Repair With Pictures

mav9750 aww

This Is My Experience Repairing The Maytag Washer Atlantis Mav Series 9750 Aww, I Had To Replace The Spin Bearing Since It Was Making A Jet Engine Noise When It Was Spinning Out The Water. Its Not An Easy Job For My 1st Time Taking This Machine Apart, You Literally Take It All Apart To Get To This Bearing, But Now I Can Show How To Do It With Pictures Making It Easier For You To Do It. Even If You Have To Replace Something Other Than The Spin Bearing, This How To Tutorial Will Show You How To Get To Most Of The Parts In This Machine

One Way To Test For Spin Bearing Noise Is To Lift Up Top Part Of Machine With The Lid Taped Down, Explained Below, Put It In Spin Cycle, And Quickly Place The Palms Of Your Hand Inside Of Basket Pushing Against Opposite Ends In The Basket To Stop It From Turning, Yes It Can Be Done Because It Takes A While Before It Starts Spinning At Full Speed, If Noise Has Gone Away, Its Your Spinner Bearing. Do Not Repeat Until You Stopped The Machine And Start Over Again. The Same Kind Of Noise Can Also Be A Bad Water Pump, Which Are Known To Fail And Have Since Been Redesigned, But That Noise Will Be Heard In Spin And Agitate Mode, And The Noise Will Have A Higher Pitch Sound, More Like A Screeching Sound.

here is a link for for a breakdown on all the parts of the washing machine http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=47955

you can also download the MAYTAG WASHER REPAIR MANUAL

SOME SPECIALTY TOOLS YOU WILL NEED

a spring tool, they're cheap, about $10 from an appliance parts store,

buy it, you will need it, it makes the job easier

spanner wrench, its for removing the hub (see pics below in section on removing hub and seal nut) they're expensive, $80 to $120 from parts store, search at tool store for better pricing, i bought a 4pc hook spanner set for $18 on sale at auto princess, its not the right kind of spanner, but it worked (see pics below in section on removing nut and seal), someone did use a hammer and chisel to get the hub loose since the hub has indentations on it, or a big set of locking pliers, you can try these first to see if it works in loosening the hub.

TAKING APART THE MACHINE

STEP 1: belt removal:

first step is to take off drive belt underneath the machine, its easy, tilt machine back to lean against a wall, but first spin the pulley and see if you can hear any noise, if so the problem could be your water pump, now grab the belt and pull it off one of the front pulleys.

STEP 2: lift the top:

next is to lift the top part of the machine, tape the lid down to the top (not to sides or front panel), use a putty knife and slide it into the front corner in between the seam of the top and bottom sections , and push in to release the tabs one at a time, the top will pop up and it has a hinge in the back that lets you swing the top up out of the way and let it rest on the back wall

the top of machine in its swinged back position leaning against my cabinets, be careful it could swing back down

STEP 3; agitator removal:

now you have the top up, its time to remove the agitator, lift off the fabric softener dispenser, its just snaps on, so just lift it up. now you will see down the middle of agitator and see a bolt, use an socket wrench w/ an extension and remove bolt counter clockwise , then just grab bottom of agitator and lift up. if agitator wont lift off, put bolt back on agitator and do a hot water wash (make sure water is hot by doing a couple of refills), then move timer to spin so it can drain the hot water out, plastic agitator should soften up enough to remove, mine came off the 1st try. Note: after removal of agitator, screw bolt back on the shaft, it prevents oil from coming out of transmission when turning transmission sideways or upside down during removal. I did not do this and i noticed oil coming out from the hole where the bolt screws into, so replacing bolt should prevent this even though nobody ever mentioned oil could come out this way.

STEP 4: water spout:

now you will have to move the water spout out of the way, you can disconnect the hoses from the back of the water inlet valve, which is part of the water spout, and disconnect the wires to to remove it completely, i didn't, there is one screw holding it in place with a tab on the other side, I removed the screw and pulled it a little forward, and slid it to my left to move it out of my way, since the hoses are still attached to it, it is flexible enough to move it around to get the inner tub, the top ring, and outer basket out

STEP 5: front panel removal :

next we have to remove front panel, it is held by 2 screws on top, and tabs on bottom, once you remove the screws, the panel swings out and you lift it up off the tabs which are on the bottom, the front panel in the pic below has already been removed

STEP 6: top ring removal:

now we have to take out the top plastic ring which is attached to the outer tub. it is held in place with tabs all around it to the outer tub. push down on the top plastic ring above each tab and pull the tab out a little to release it from the hook , 2 pics below to see what I mean.

move the water spout out of the way as you remove the ring

STEP 7: inner tub removal:

we can remove the four bolts holding inner tub (spinner) to the outer tub, mine is stainless steel, plastic tubs would just have bolts

when these 4 bolts are out, the tub will come out, as you move it up move water spout out of the way

STEP 8: o-ring, seal nut, and hub removal:

remove the o-ring on the shaft (not visible in pic below), I used a small knitting needle to get the o-ring off.

next is the hard part, it was for me, the removal of the seal nut and the hub (pics below), they are on very tight and its hard to get any leverage in the tub to start turning these parts. the seal nut is threaded on top of the hub on the shaft. on the seal nut I used a big locking pliers, I locked it on, broke some of the plastic splines in doing so, but it doesn't matter, just take it off, the redesigned hub does not use a seal nut, with the locking pliers locked on the seal nut, I used a hammer to hit the pliers to turn it in a counter clockwise direction, once you get it to start turning it should come out easily.

the hub (a big nut) is also threaded on to the shaft, it needs a spanner wrench to remove it, or very big locking pliers, someone used a hammer and chisel, I used a hook type spanner, not the proper type, but it worked, and used a hammer to hit the wrench to get it to start turning it in a counter clockwise direction, once it was loose, it turned freely by hand, remove it off the shaft (see 3rd pic below).

the pic below still shows the seal nut in place, remove it first before you start working on the hub

STEP 9: outer tub removal:

(the next part I thought I could just take out the outer tub without removing the load balancing springs that hold down the transmission unit to the frame, I was wrong, if your model has a back access panel, you can get to the springs from there, even the outer basket screws, my washing machine does not have a back access panel)

normally this part of the disassembly procedure would be to get the springs unhooked and remove transmission and outer basket out as a whole unit. my model doesn't have a back access panel and at the time of disassembly I didn't have the spring tool, and didn't think I could get at the springs with the basket in my way. with the spring tool it might be possible to get at the springs to unhook them with the basket in place. so I removed the basket first, there are screws (6) holding down the basket all around the base on the bottom steel plate (dome), they are silver in color, (don't remove the black ones, they are the ones holding the legs (braces) to the dome), and there are 4 screws to remove from inside the tube under the hub. the transmission unit can pivot around to get more access to the sides and back. if I have to do this again, I might cut an access panel in the back of the washing machine because it was a pain putting the screws back on the base of the outer tub. in the first pic below it shows the transmission and outer tub removed as a whole unit, but it shows the location of the screws, the next pic below shows my basket while in the machine.

once all screws are removed, there is a small hose to detach in the back of outer tub, and the drain hose to detach at bottom of outer basket, use pliers to squeeze clamps, place shallow pan underneath drain to catch water.

here is the machine with the outer basket out

STEP 10: spring removal:

the seal and bearing housing is screwed into dome from underneath with 3 screws, so we have to unhook the springs to get the transmission unit out. you can use a special tool that helps in unhooking the springs, it has 2 adjustable settings for different length of springs, its changed by by sliding it up or down in a channeled groove where it pivots, the bottom end goes into a notch on the base to help it from slipping, buy it, its only about $10 -$15, which I did to when I had to reinstall the springs, I used a brake spring removal tool to unhook the springs

once you unhook the springs, the whole transmission unit will lift up and out, this pic shows outer tub (basket) still attached.

STEP 11: dome removal:

there are 3 legs attached to the dome, mark the relationship for reassembly, remove the screws holding the legs to the dome, 2 for each leg, total of 6 screws to remove

next you have to lift the dome over the shaft, its a snug fit, lightly tap with your hand to remove, this is my transmission unit removed, the dome has been removed.

STEP 12: seal and bearing housing removal:

this is the piece I needed to replace, the seal and bearing are part of this housing, the new unit will be "seal and bearing kit" replacement

STEP 13: installing the new seal and bearing housing:

the new seal and bearing kit comes with gaskets and a new redesigned hub, here is a link to the kit http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/ctrfs.aspx?part_id=3875413&&model_id=47955&diagram_id=646306 , "no" seal nut is needed, so now attach the new seal and bearing housing to the dome with the 3 bolts

STEP 14 reinstalling the parts:

place transmission unit over something soft as not to damage the pulley at the bottom, slide dome over shaft and line up your relationship marks, bang it down with your hand until the screw holes match up, attach dome to the leg braces with the bolts, you can attach outer tub now before replacing unit into machine, or after, putting back those screws that attach the basket to the dome is hard to do while in the machine, but its possible, that's the way I did it since I have no back access panel.

so now I have the transmission unit back in the machine, put the springs back on, make sure springs are properly positioned on the base

once the springs are installed, I placed the new black rubber seal onto the the seal and bearing housing

the new foam gasket goes underneath the outer basket and placed onto the dome, you might have to hold the gasket with your hand through the hole in the bottom of the basket as you place it on top of the dome, then I screwed the outer basket back on to the dome, and the four screws inside the basket which screw into the bearing housing. now the new hub goes on, its redesigned so no seal nut is used, I hand tightened, then 1/4 turn with spanner wrench with a hammer, I hope that's tight enough, put o-ring back on the shaft, at this stage reinstall the drain hose and small hose in the back of outer tub and fill with some water up to the top of hub to check for any leaks, to drain use a wet vac or put unit in spin mode to drain water so you can finish the reinstall.

everything else is the reversal of taking it apart. do a wash cycle with front panel off and check for leaks

I hope this helps you doing what I needed to do, I wish someone made a site like this for before I did this job

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email me if you have any questions, remove "<remove>" this part in the email address before you send

vincom5<remove>@yahoo.com

should also work for these models