1 Oct 2010I had planned our trip through northern New Mexico based on some computer maps. Well, when we got to Navajo Dam I realized that New Mexico uses unimproved roads more often than even I care to use them. Some are dirt roads following old trade routes and indian trails. I didn't want to bust up the truck and trailer seeing that we still have a ways to go before heading home. Looking at the map we didn't have too many options to get to Texas. I surely didn't want to head back north through the San Juan mountains and whip the truck like a mule again. The only other route was to go directly to Santa Fe. It was a nice drive but it seemed very long to me. We both seem to think we're getting to the point where we need more break days and more often than before. The skies always seem so beautiful in Santa Fe, especially at night. We had seen towering clouds accumulating from over 100 miles away as we approached Santa Fe. The mountains behind the city were dark purple, you could see the heavy bottom layer of the clouds releasing rain in some areas across the horizon, while also seeing the gleaming billowy tops and lightning strikes in the mountains. Very cool place. We went to one of our favorite restaurants and had dinner since we both agreed that we both have been very good.
1 Oct 2010We stayed in Santa Fe another day and found two new places for New Mexican food. One was right across the street from where we were staying, a small very local fast food joint where there were nothing but native locals, called El Comal. We both had 3 tacos to go, a buck each, and a pineapple soda, (Pina). The other was a place we wanted to try the last time we were here. It was featured on Diners, Drive-ins and Dives, Harry’s Roadhouse. We didn’t know what to expect since the last Triple D we tried we didn’t think was all that much of a big deal. This place was different. A real small restaurant, made from an actual old roadhouse; A small outside patio, small bar and not enough parking. It’s about 5 miles outside of town on Old Pecos Trail. The food was excellent and we’d both go back again and again if given the opportunity. We watched a great sunset as we waited for our table. Again, there was rain off in the distance but we were spared. We went back fed Gypsy and went for a ride to fill up the truck so I wouldn’t have to do it with the trailer attached. I wish I would have taken my camera. I wanted to get some pictures of some old hotels / motels in adobe architecture lit with their little old argon and neon lights shining at night. We both love it here. There is something about the laid back lifestyle, tolerant and mixed culture, Spanish influence, western openness and the weather make a very definite impression on you.
Love the weather here in Santa Fe. It's not too hot or too cold. We talked to some local people who say the winters are mild. The cold lasts a day or two and they do have some snow, but it melts quickly. I don't know if I could move here since I would always eat too much and I'd probably put on 40 pounds in no time! We definitely will be keeping eye on the weather and the prices in the next few months to see if it would be some place we would like to move to. Best part, no humidity!
3 October 2010 We drove to Santa Rosa Lake in New Mexico. Again, a park well of the beaten path, but luckily no dirt roads. We parked in loop B, and had the entire loop to ourselves. We put on the hiking boots and headed to a trail. We took along Gypsy and she was a real trooper. She hung in there until the end, barely. We did stop a few times to enjoy the cool breeze blowing off the lake. The temperature was 73 degrees, perfect for hiking.
4-6 Oct 2010
After a long drive we arrived back in Palo Duro Canyon. We just rested up and went into town for some of our favorite Mexican food at El Patio. We returned to the campsite picked up Gypsy and cruised the park looking for animals. We started a bit late it was quite dark by the time we returned. The next day we headed into Canyon to go shopping, pick up our forwarded mail (thank you Jean), had lunch and finally washed the truck. I think it will take a good hand washing before it is really clean, but it is much better now. We had to make a special trip to Ace Hardware to pick up a fly-swatter. Many of you know that Gypsy absolutely hates flies. She’ll cower over by the door or lay between the beds if she hears one buzzing around. There are more than the normal amounts of flies around now since it is cattle gathering time. Each time we come or go, or enter the trailer, one of us must go on fly patrol. I don’t know why they bother her so much, it’s not like she’s read Lord of the Flies. Maybe they remind her of her mortal enemies’ bees and wasps. We are parked in the same campground and only two sites down from where we were the last time we were here. The turkeys are very active, it seems the Tom spends most of his time trying to keep the hens in some kind of order, but they hardly pay attention to him. We can hear him calling often by rarely see him. We’ve only seen him once whereas we’ve seen the flock 4-5 times a day.
The deer come through the camp a bit more often than last time. One startled Gypsy as I was cooking outside last night. If they are real close, they snort at her and trot off. We went hiking on Sunflower trail, the mosquitoes ambushed us about a half mile in near the small river. Kim went down first, I tried to rally but they countered and took me down. Gypsy led us back to the truck. Late that night the coyotes were out, it seemed they had something to eat in the Hackberry Campground I hope it wasn’t someones pet. I got a haircut in town, and asked where I could get some mesquite firewood. I was told that they sold it at the local United Food grocery store. I picked up a supply that should last me a long while. My original supply was confiscated at the California border. I had found a small stash since then that had lasted me until now by splitting it very thin and putting it directly on top of the hot coals just before putting on the steaks or chops.
Love, love Canyon Texas. Weather here is perfect too. No humidity and not too dry. We met lots of nice people here. While we were sleeping last night we heard the coyotes. We heard them only one time in Canada but far off in the distance. They were so close I heard them with my earplugs in. They weren't howling, it sounded terrible whatever they were doing. Must have got a late night snack. It was creepy and I hope it wasn't a dog in the campground. I can go without hearing that again. On the lighter side I got to eat at my favorite Mexican restaurant twice!
7 Oct 2010We left Palo Duro Canyon and the small town of Canyon. This is still one of our favorite small towns in the US. We met some very friendly people that invited us to come live there. We headed just about due east to another Texas state park, named Lake Arrowhead. It’s getting hot again, but not quite as bad as the last time we were here.
8 Oct 010
Well it seems our little trip will be coming to an end a bit sooner than we planned. The weather up north has been dipping into the 30’s, and I’m anxious about having the trailer freeze. These things are not made to hold heat or cold! And, the a/c unit just went out last night. It was fine during the day, but after dinner I put it on and it just groaned as if it just couldn’t get started up. It sounds like the compressor motor to me. We can’t go out exploring or seeing things during the day and leave Gypsy in the trailer without a/c. We stopped and bought a 20” fan which we can plug into the inverter for cooling down and sleeping. We’ll be fine I’m sure. We plan to stay here tonight in Eisenhower Park in Texas, tomorrow in Mississippi, then we’ll visit Kim’s aunt in Pace Florida, then a long one day trip back home from there.
More coyotes near by last night, but at least they were just howling. There sure was a large pack of them. I hope they're not following us! Thank goodness for the fan. It gets nice and cool at night but it takes time to cool down the trailer. I want to give a shout out for Gypsy. She has been a trooper to say the least. She followed along with enthusiasm, jumped in the truck almost every day with anticipation to smell the next destination and was such a good girl in the truck especially on very long days. She's tired and I think needs a nice nap in her favorite chair. She deserves it!
We’ll save those places we wanted to go to for another trip at another time, and next time I'm bringing a kayak or small boat. We both agree that there is no sense going places if we go just to go without enjoying them, or worrying all the time if we’ll get caught in weather or if Gypsy is okay. There are so many places we did not see, and we didn’t see everything of all the places we went. I guess we’d say we saw hints of beautiful things, or one dimension of them at least. There was always the other side of the valley we saw but never touched; the other side of the mountain; the other side of the river. We saw mountains that looked tremendously tall and wide, but we never could get our minds wrapped around how deep or how far back they went, we know there was always another mountain behind the one we looked at, but it was never in our sight. We tried to imagine it, but we couldn’t, we only understood what we were seeing right then. We often saw small plants or insects far up north or in the driest of deserts, just eking out their existence, most likely not going to make it through another winter cycle, but plugging on just the same. We saw ice cold rivers in the middle of the desert and hot rivers in alpine climates. We saw time etched on rock for us to see, it was written in the layers of stone by the wind and the rain over years and years. We know the erosion is happening right now just as when we were there, but the process is so slow we only imagine that it has always appeared as we saw it. We try to imagine the ages and eons but we can’t, we only know now and what we see and feel. We saw rivers as clear as air and as full of silt that you couldn't see a black stone an inch under the surface. Many of them were full and running tremendous amounts of water very minute, hour, week and year. They’ve been there for ages, they’re drawn on maps so anyone can travel to them and see them just gushing water in the same way we did. They supply entire populations and agricultural economies, year after year. We saw that the family roadhouses along the Alcan of years passed were no longer around. No more sourdough pancake breakfasts for hungry guests, nor salmon bake dinners, or native trout dinners for weary motorists. Our cars are much more dependable now, our tires hardly go flat anymore, and the road is paved. Tour buses full of people that never would have attempted such a trip on their own ply the tourist hot-spots designated by a tour or cruise director concerned more with meeting deadlines and filling seats than showing the natural beauty of the places they visit. The refueling location for these road behemoths also get the booty for feeding the passengers which left nothing for the small privately owned roadhouse. There are many things that haven’t diminished, but have gotten better. For example, the Cassiar Highway in Canada. The last time I traveled it, it was a dusty dirt logging road with logging trucks barreling up and down the road. You had to pull over while they passed because you couldn’t see the road, and you didn’t want your windshield broken by flying rocks. Now the road is paved, it’s much easier to drive, and there is no more logging along the entire highway. It is as peaceful and beautiful a stretch of road that I know. There are no tour buses because there are no places large enough for them to stop. We saw animals that didn’t know what we were. At a point on the Continental Divide, we were at the summit of a pass at which water would either flow to the Pacific Ocean, the Hudson Bay or the Atlantic Ocean, amazing. So many places were beyond what I was able to fully appreciate. Many times I couldn't assimilate what I was seeing quickly enough. At times, I felt in a rush to absorb what I was seeing so that it wouldn't pass by. I'd be aware that my eyes were moving and searching looking this way and that trying to find a perspective from which I could realize more. I tried to absorb not only the uniqueness of what I was seeing, but the feeling I had at the time. I wish I was a poet so I could make my words make you feel what I felt and saw. I wish I was a poet so that I could read my words and it would seem like it was happening all again.
We hope you enjoyed our adventure of a lifetime, we sure did! It’s time to go home.