Car fixing

Dante

8/7/2014

Keywords: ABS, SRS

I have been riding around with 3 warning lights on my dashboard: Check Engine, ABS, and SRS. I recently realized that the SRS warning (Supplemental Restraint System) was not something to play around with. I cleared the SRS code using the process outlined in the shop manual. Email me if you would like to know how to do this. I did this because there are some non-airbag related reasons for an error code to be thrown. However, the warning light came right back on after I cleared it. I am not comfortable working with airbags so I decided to take it to the Honda dealer. They found that the SRS control unit was bad and they replaced it. It cost me $500. The control unit was $350! The labor charge was not much. If I had known it was just swapping out the control unit I might have tried it myself. But it could have been alot of things and it would have been an expensive chance to take if I bought a control unit and that ended up not being the problem.

Next up was the ABS light. The ABS error code can be read by jumping the service connector and turning the ignition on halfway. I was getting 4 with no second digit. This was Pump Motor Overrun. One of the first things to try for this situation is to bleed the ABS system. On the ABS system there is a bleeder valve that is right on top. Connect a plastic tube to the valve and put the other end in a jar. Start the car and the ABS motor should start to pump. Crack the valve open and you should see fluid and air come out. Close it before the pump goes off. It is under pressure so be careful. After bleeding it a few times, when I started the car the pump ran for 40 seconds and stopped. Then the ABS light came back on. I figured the problem was more serious than just air in the system. The next morning the pump ran noisily for 40 seconds after I started the car and the ABS light came on again. However, the next time I started the car, the pump came on noisily for about 10 seconds then got alot quieter and then stopped. The ABS light did not come on! The pump did not "overrun".

So 2 out of the 3 warning lights are gone. The remaining Check Engine code is 21 which is for the VTEC solenoid. Thats next on my list.

8/28/2014 ABS Update

Keywords: ABS

After a week or so of the ABS working fine, the pump began to run for longer and longer when I started the car. It would also come on more frequently while driving. So I tried to bleed the system again. It didn't work as well this time. Sometimes the pump would come and stop and sometimes it would run until the ABS light came back on. So there must be something wrong. I think the module needs to be replaced but it is an expensive part. So I'll probably just leave it alone for now.

8/12/2017 Speed Sensor

Keywords: Speed sensor, test harness

Symptoms: Speedometer not working, odometer not working, D4 light blinking

In 2016 we drove Dante from Knoxville to Lafayette. During this trip the speedometer stopped working. It would fall down to 0, sometimes it would stay there and other times it would jump up and down. I changed the speed sensor around February 2016 and the speedometer started working again. The speed sensor is located on the passenger side of the engine, down at the bottom right on top of the transmission. There is a small pin which goes down into a gear in the transmission. The other end of the pin goes into the sensor. The pin rotates with the transmission and as it rotates the speed sensor gives a pulse to the engine computer. The frequency of the pulse is used to determine the speed.

Everything was great for about 2 months when suddenly the speedometer started malfunctioning again. Since the sensor was new I thought it was a problem with the wiring harness or a bad ground. I started doing some troubleshooting to find the source of the problem.

Background on the sensor electrics:

There are 3 wires that go to the sensor.

1. 12 Volt +

2. 5 Volt signal from engine computer

3. Ground

So I started by disconnecting the sensor cable and measuring these values. You need to turn the ignition to the On position (engine not running). Its difficult to get a multimeter on these pins. If you want to test for a short or a bad wire, you need a secure connection. I went to Pull-a-Part and cut a similar wire harness from another 95 Accord (see image below).

I was able to find both ends of the 3 pin connector. I soldered the wires together and also added a long wire to each that would reach to the top of the engine.

The three extension wires go to a terminal block. This creates a sturdy connection where I can even put in the multimeter probes and screw them in.

To test the wiring, I disconnected the harness that goes to the sensor. Then I used the test harness I created as a jumper between the engine harness and the sensor. So I have the sensor connected and I have access to the wires. I measured the voltage on the 12V wire while bending and moving the harness. The voltage never fluctuated. I did the same test on the 5V line and found no problems. I did measure a constant 6.3 V on the signal line instead of 5V. The manual says it should be "about 5 Volts" so I don't know if this is a problem or not. It could be the reason why my first sensor went bad. Anyway, it seems the harness is good so its time to move onto the next test.

I chocked the wheels and put the emergency brake on. I jacked the car up on the passenger side so that the front tire was off the ground. With the ignition switch on and the transmission in Neutral you can rotate that tire slowly by hand. Connect the multimeter to the 5V signal wire. If the sensor is working it will pull the 5V line down to 0V as you turn the tire. It should pulse between 0 and 5V as you turn the tire.

In my case, the voltage stayed at 6.3V. So my sensor was bad again. I don't know how it failed in only 2 months. I may have some electrical problem.

I bought a new sensor and installed it. I repeated the test with turning the wheel and I could see the voltage go from 6.3V to 0V in pulses.

Additional picture of the test harness:

Willie

8/28/2014 Steering gearbox

Keywords: Steering gearbox, power steering leak

When I bought Willie he had alot of play in the steering. It was dang hard to drive on a narrow road. The steering gearbox was worn from years of driving through fields and dirt roads. The gearbox takes the turning of the steering wheel and converts it into the left/right turning of the wheels. There is a big wormgear in there and pressure from the power steering hydraulics make it easier to turn. The gearbox is easy to access, but its difficult to work with because the part is heavy. Trying to line up a 30 pound gearbox to get the bolts started is not fun. I eventually made a sling for it and suspended it from a 2x4 that spanned across the engine compartment. This allowed me to hold it up while I arrange it to line up with the mounting holes. Sorry, I don't remember all the details of the process.

When I finally got everything back together the high pressure power steering hose leaked where it went into the gearbox. It was a new hose and a new o-ring going into a new(rebuilt) gearbox. So everything should be fine, but it wasn't. The hose had a typical flare fitting as seen in the picture below. The leak was between the metal hose and the nut and it was significant (enough to make the EPA blush).

It seemed like after tightening the nut there were still a few threads exposed and there was not enough compression on the flared end of the pipe against the o-ring. I ordered a new hose, from a different manufacturer and it leaked also. I am guessing that the remanufactured gearbox or the hoses were not made exactly to the Ford specification. Maybe if I bought the hose from Ford it would fix the problem, but if it is the gearbox then I wasn't willing to spend that amount of money and time to redo the whole job. Since I had an extra hose now I decided to try to seal the joint between the hose and the nut. I packed gasket sealer into the gap between the hose and the nut and screwed it into the gearbox. After it dried the leak was reduced to a small intermittent drip. Not perfect, but acceptable.

10/2/2014 EGR hose

Keywords: EGR, engine bucking, stalling on takeoff

Willie has always had a small buck when going uphill. For example at highway speeds on a slight incline it feels like a small stutter in the engine. Also sometimes on takeoff from a stop you have to ease onto the accelerator. If you punch it down, the engine will stall. I searched online for these symptoms and found that many other 1990s F150 owners had a similar problem. Many people said that restricting the EGR flow got rid of the problem.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/14221-92-f150-4-9l-slight-miss-hesitation-under-light-gas-pedal-pressure.html

My understanding is that the Exhaust Gas Recirculation(EGR) system pumps a certain amount of exhaust gas back into the air/fuel mixture. The hot exhaust gas affects the way the fuel is combusted and is supposed to increase the efficiency and reduce the emissions of the engine. On older engines the valves may have buildups of carbon which will change the fuel/air ratio. Combining this with the introduction of exhaust gas can cause the fuel/air ratio to be off enough to make the engine stumble. Note: This is just my theory. Anyway, after removing the vacuum hose from my EGR valve and taping it up to block air flow it seems that the engine runs better. I tested it on a few steep hills and I did not get the same stuttering in the engine. I know that this is not a real solution to the problem, but it gives some guidance. I may try one of those miracle gas additive products that can remove valve buildup. It may also be that the EGR valve has a problem. If you have similar symptoms, it is worth a try.

5/16/201 Windshield Wiper Motor

Keywords: Wipers not working, motor noise

The windshield wipers were having problems. Sometimes they would work, but move slowly. Then for a while they would not move at all. I could hear a relay clicking as I turned the switch from low speed to high speed. Also I was getting voltage in the 3 pin connector that connects to the motor. 1 pin is ground, 1 pin is low speed, and 1 pin is high speed. So I concluded that the motor must be bad.

The wiper motor is under the hood mounted to the firewall

Here are the steps to replace it:

1. Remove wiper arms

A) Lift the wiper up off the windshield

B) At the base of the arm where it connects to the linkage, pull out the metal tab to lock the wiper arm in that position.

C) Wiggle and grunt as you pull the arm straight off the linkage. It can be stuck on there pretty good. I sprayed some PB Blaster and let it soak. Be careful not to get it on the paint though.

2. The shaft of the motor connects to the wiper linkage underneath the cowl between the hood and the windshield. So the cowl must be removed.

A) Remove the antenna. There is a metal cap that hides 4 screws.

B) Remove the screws that hold the cowl. There are some on the top of the cowl and some on the inside under the hood.

C) The cowl will need to come out (away from the windshield) and up to get it out. Its not easy to do. I had to partially remove the hood to get enough space to lift the cowl up enough.

D) The tubing for the washer squirters and the antenna cable will still be connected. Just move the cowl up onto the windshield enough to get it out of the way.

3. Remove the protective plate over the wiper motor.

4. Disconnect the motor shaft from the linkage.

A) Remove the 8 mm bolt that connects the motor shaft to the wiper linkage. Its hard to see and you have to reach through a small hole.

B) The shaft and the linkage are probably going to be stuck together tight tight. You will need some creative prying to get it off.

5. Remove motor and install new motor

A) Remove the electrical connectors from the wiper motor. Make sure you disconnect the battery ground first.

B) Remove the 3 bolts that hold the motor to the firewall.

C) Transfer the mounting plate to the new motor.

D) Install the new motor.

Eleanor

1/6/2018 Exterior Door Handle

Keywords: Door handle

The rear passenger side door handle stopped working suddenly. The handle would get stuck and it would not pull out far enough to release the lock. I found a replacement door handle on eBay for only $8. I thought it might be just a clip came loose or something, but for only $8 I figured it would be worth buying it just in case.

To access the door handle you need to take off the interior door panel.

This is where it gets difficult. You will be able to see the door handle, but it is not easily accessible. First remove the clip and the metal rod that connects the door handle. There are 2 bolts that hold the door handle onto the door frame. One is easily accessible. The other is not. You will find a round hole with clear film over it. This hole provides access to the 2nd bolt. However the electronic door control unit is blocking the hole. (See the image below). You will need to remove the screws holding the electronic door control unit and push it down to clear the access hole.

I don't have good documentation of how I got the door handle out. It was not easy. There is a spring loaded part on the handle that must be manipulated to get it out.

4/1/2018 Serpentine Belt

Keywords: Serpentine Belt

There was a recall on Eleanor's passenger airbag. While she was at the dealer they mentioned the serpentine would have to be replaced eventually. I ordered one from the dealership. The part number is 04301-RNA-307 and the price was about $50. When I picked up the new belt I noticed that there is a diagram on the box that shows an old belt routing that is X-ed out. Next to it is a diagram of the new routing. I would like to know what was behind the decision to change the routing. Anyway, just make sure you use the new routing for your belt.

The belt tensioner has a 19 mm stud that you use to pivot the tensioner to get slack on the belt. The stud is right next to the tensioner pulley. It is not easy to move and you will not be able to fit most tools in the tight space. Honda and some 3rd parties make a special tool for this tensioner. I ordered one from Advanced Auto (part #ASSHON1419). It is made by Assenmacher and it was about $40. Its always a difficult choice to buy a specialty tool. However, we own 2 Civics that this tool will work on so I figured it was worth the money. It made the job much easier.

Procedure:

1. Remove the passenger side front wheel. There is a panel in the wheel hub that can be moved to gain access to some of the lower pulleys.

2. Remove the plastic panel in the wheel hub.

3. Create a diagram that shows how the belt is currently routed. It is interesting that my belt was already routed with the new routing. Maybe it had been changed before.

4. Use the special tool to create slack in the belt. Put the 19mm socket end of the tool on the tensioner stud. Make sure to start with the bar of the tool as close to the radiator as possible. You will need to pull up and towards the back of the car to release the tension and you need the most room possible to release the tension completely.

5. Have a helper slip the belt off of one of the pulleys.

6. Remove old belt.

7. Install the new belt around all the pulleys except for the alternator (the top-most pulley). Have your helper hold the belt right next to the alternator pulley and pull up on the belt to hold tension on it. Otherwise, the belt will slip off of one of the lower pulleys. Use the specialty tool to remove the tension. Your helper should be able to slip the belt over the alternator pulley.

8. Confirm the routing and position of the belt on all the pulleys.