Old Camp Bluff is named after the old, now-demolished, Kay's Resort on Silver Lake.
The rock is a beautiful granitic, some of it orange-patina'd, and mostly very clean with some scrubbable lichens near the tops. There are more than 50 routes including Area 32, a few of which split off from each other. There are top anchors to cover nearly every climb, though in some cases, directionals would be advised. There is an excellent variety of traditional cracks, sport faces, and combination routes. Lengths vary from 10 meters to 25 meters. Route difficulties range from 5-4 to 5-13. At 7500', the area is climbable on days when the Valley is 100 degrees.
Some years have had an abundance of yellow jackets, once having nested in or near the rotten log at the base of the cliff. Mosquitoes have not been a big problem, but they are there on occasion.
It would be appreciated if climbers would put in a minimum of work here, tossing away loose "ankle-roller" rocks to make the cliff base safer. Not much needs to be done along the access to the cliff, but some clean-up of the final approach gully is in order, also. A number of the routes remain pretty dirty, and ten minutes of wire brushing would be appreciated.
Some toprope climbing has been done here in years past; the original climbers requested that bolting be kept to a minimum in honor of the beautiful rock faces here. For the time being, it does not seem that more bolting is in order.
A very great amount of time, effort, and expense, went into developing Old Camp Bluff. It's a beautiful place, and needs to stay that way. Friends and this editor have recently hauled out trash and cigarette butts. Just stay away from this place if you can't take your trash and butts with you when you leave. Otherwise, enjoy it thoroughly. You can climb impossibly hard routes, or bring your beginning friends here to learn what it is all about on the easier routes. And if you're into toprope soloing, many anchors are in perfect place for that practice. Thanks for your help in maintaining the area.
NOTE: EID has posted the Sandy Cove parking lot, and the entire length of Kays Road, as a "Fee Area", requiring $5 per car for day use. It is likely that you could get ticketed for parking, whether or not you are using the Silver Lake facilities. There is adequate nearby parking, along the highway or near either gate, to avoid having to pay this tariff. Editorially speaking, EID is a rich organization, and has found yet another way to bulge the coffers, at the expense of those who would like to enjoy the outdoors without paying more fees and taxes at every turn. Editor also wonders if Kays Road was developed and paved with public tax monies.