Text 2010
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In 1586, when English merchant, Ralph Fitch reached an almost inaccessible place which he called “Jamahey” he could never have imagined it being voted, centuries later, as one of “The World’s Best Cities” nor foreseen it becoming an international centre of learning, with five universities, and seven international schools; a preferred place of retirement for Thais and expatriates, a Mecca for artists and writers, a prime tourist destination, a venue for international meetings and events, and the undisputed cultural heart of Thailand.
A paved road only reached here in 1972, and it against this backdrop of inaccessibility that Chiang Mai takes its place today as one of the world’s great cities, its mystique preserved by almost seven centuries of relative isolation. Alas, many visitors just book one or two nights here, when a whole week is hardly enough, not to mention staying a second week in the delightful town of Chiang Rai. Combining these two ancient sites provides the ingredients for a wonderful holiday, and a fascinating glimpse into the abundant nature and rich culture of Northern Thailand.
-“Oh! Just want to lie on a beach, and do nothing”-
Understandable, but a vacation in the mountains of Northern Thailand is an excellent alternative which few consider. Yet it possesses the same (or superior) benefits, is not subject to mass tourism, is better value for money, and offers many aspects which enrich a holiday far beyond the seaside. Alone, the choice of accommodation is immensely appealing, and affordable. Small guest houses offer simple facilities from as little as US$6 a night. More ‘luxurious’ varieties charge about US$20, and most offer catering, vehicle hire, tours and trekking. Home stays with local families provide a unique insight into local customs & culture; ‘Voluntourism’ programmes allow you to sleep in a village to work and help the local people, and guest accommodation is available in some children’s homes, with the revenue supporting the orphanage.
Or, for the ultimate in relaxation, how about renting a houseboat on a beautiful reservoir? Beyond these options are also some of Thailand’s most alluring ‘boutique’ hotels - many managed personally by the owner. At the top of the range, stunning five-star international properties offer every comfort, and whether you enjoy the city, or prefer to be surrounded by mountains, rice terraces, elephants and water buffalos, the choice of accommodation is as endless as the list of things to do and see. On top of this, the Northern people are considered the friendliest in the whole of the Kingdom. What a delightful combination.
Chiang Mai’s main attractions are most easily seen with organized excursions booked through a reputable travel agency. This will introduce you to the mountain-top temple of Doi Suthep, the other main temples, the handicraft and hill tribe villages and the elephants, plus perhaps a river cruise and a ‘Kantoke’ dinner. With this introduction, and equipped with a guide book and a good map, it’s now yours to discover, on foot, by bike, motor cycle or a hire car – all three are inexpensive.
As a brief outline, Chiang Mai has about a dozen museums, including the Chiang Mai National Museum; Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Center, The Hill Tribe Museum; the Dara Phairom Museum, home of a former princess; and many others, including an Aircraft Museum and even one entirely devoted to insects. Over a dozen local markets display an amazing selection of goods and an exploration of the largest (Warorot) on the river can easily take up half a day. There are also markets specializing in plants, handicrafts, silver & jewellery, furniture, textiles, tropical fish, and even bananas! Add to this the Night Bazaar, the famous Nimmanhaemin Road shops & galleries, the Sunday Walking Street Market, plus dozens of small studios, workshops, tiny specialist shops, giant department stores……and try not to miss the many wonderful annual festivals!
There is so much here to participate in…. Chiang Mai has several top-class golf courses, and you can also enjoy (to mention a few) Abseilling, Archery, Ballooning, Bird Watching, Bowling, Bungy Jumping, Caving, Elephant Riding, Enduro Biking, Game Fishing (lake) Go-karting, Horse Riding, Horseracing, Kayaking, Microlight Flying, Off-Road 4WD, Mountain Biking, Paintball, Paragliding, Quad (ATV) Riding, Rafting, Rock Climbing, Rowing, Shooting, Trekking, White Water Rafting, Windsurfing (lake) Zip-Line Riding (through the rain forest canopy) and even “Zorbing” (rolling down a slope inside a giant plastic ball) You can also take courses in: Feng Shui, Jewellery Making, Jungle Survival Cooking, Mahout Training, Muay Thai (Thai boxing) Thai Cooking, Thai Traditional Massage & Herbal Medicine, Meditation, Thai Language Studies, Yoga, and even train for a private pilot’s licence. There are also excellent courses for foreign students at Payap and Chiang Mai Universities.
Many people now combine a holiday with medical or dental treatment in the world-class hospitals and clinics, and at a fraction of the cost of the West. Chiang Mai also has a large number of health spas, and is a major centre for holistic medicine, including acupuncture, aromatherapy, massage, Reiki, reflexology, and many other alternative therapies. There are wonderful annual festivals, excellent local restaurants, a vibrant night life, regular concerts, dramas, and shows, plus full-scale stage productions at the 1540-seat Kad Theatre, the largest of its kind in Asia. And on the doorstep of the city is a beautiful mountainous province of national parks, forests and waterfalls. And beyond that, the ancient city of Chiang Rai, and the Golden Triangle on the Mekong River awaits you - making an ideal 2-centre holiday combination.
About half the size of Switzerland, Chiang Mai province is dotted with small villages, many hill tribe settlements, spectacular mountain ranges, verdant valleys and crashing waterfalls. It is also home to several high altitude National Parks of great beauty, where pine forests, giant rhododendron and alpine flowers replace the tropical flora most visitors associate with Thailand. Hiring a small self-drive car for a whole week can cost as little as US$200 (including unlimited mileage and insurance) and opens a wonderful world of exploration to many delightful places in this magical region, including Doi Inthanon National Park, home to the Kingdom’s highest mountain (2,565 meters, 8410 feet) where comfortable log cabins or bungalows can be rented to use as a base for exploring the rich flora and fauna, including 382 registered bird species.
Equally cool in both senses of the word, is Doi Angkhang (1400 metres, 4600 feet) a scenic 3-hour drive from the city, site of a Royal Agricultural Project, with orchards, flowers and forests, a choice of comfortable accommodation, an ideal place to walk, and a favourite haunt of naturalists, including bird-watchers who enjoy discovering the 139 different species recorded here. Amongst many others is the Chiang Dao National Park, dominated by its dramatic 2225 metre peak and limestone caves, also with an abundance of birds and wildlife, plus river rafting, elephant riding, or simply hiking in pristine nature. Space precludes listing more, but closer to town, are the splendid Queen Sirikit Botanic Gardens, the Chiang Mai Night Safari with S.E. Asia’s biggest musical fountain, the beautifully landscaped park of Royal Flora Ratchapruek, and Chiang Mai Zoo with its Giant Panda bears, and a huge aquarium with a 133-metre transparent walk-through tunnel.
Established in 1262, and less than half a day’s drive from Chiang Mai, older and less-visited Chiang Rai has a choice of accommodation ranging from beautiful five-star mountain resorts with stunning views (and crackling log fires in the cooler months) to idyllic riverside resorts with therapeutic spas, plus many friendly hotels and cute guest houses. This small and relaxed university town is home to several famous artists, and boasts fascinating museums, ancient temples, markets, many places of interest, plus excellent golf courses. It is particularly pleasant to explore by bicycle! Outside the town, the mountainous province offers some of Thailand’s most spectacular scenery, with lush forests and fertile slopes dotted with tea and coffee plantations, orchards and flower nurseries, all replacing the former and infamous opium poppy fields.
Many different ethnic groups with their own language, dress, beliefs and customs add to the already huge bounty of interest. Sightseeing essentials include visiting the alpine peaks of Mae Salong, home of the exiled Chinese Kuomintang, and Doi Tung, with its splendid Royal Villa and gardens, final residence of the revered Princess Mother. It is possible to cross into Burma for the day at the border town of Mae Sai, and a trip to the Golden Triangle, where Thailand Laos and Burma meet on the Mekong river, opens a host of sightseeing options, including the historic walled town of Chiang Saen, and two exceptional museums under Royal Patronage: - the fascinating Hall of Opium and the Mae Fah Luang Art & Cultural Park, which houses the region's largest collection of rare Lanna art.
Add to this, a museum devoted to opium lord “Khun Sa” plus wonderful opportunities for trekking, boat tours on the Kok and Mekong rivers, elephant rides, and exploring on your own.
A week here? – not enough!