My Brothers Wakefield

Early in June of 1949, I suddenly realized that there should Wakefield Elimination Meet coming up somewhere in the New York area. I finally called Frank Zaic and found I had only two weeks in which to build, and test a model. A week later I was out test flying my first attempt at a Wakefield.

What a struggle it turned out to be! The night before the Eliminations, while discussing the coming Meet with a friend, it "happened"! The Surprise was born on a scrap of paper, while we were gulping our dinner down. (Why is it a contest flier always waits until the last minute and then burns the "midnight oil" in order to have a ship for the contest the next day?) A few hours later, we were test flying what turned out to be a very worth-while night s work.

At the- Eliminations the model made two over-the-limit flights, dethermalizing nicely each time. Needless to say, we were surprised!

The story and results of the Wakefield Finals were covered very thoroughly by team-mate Bob Hanford s article in the November, 1949, issue of MODEL AIRPLANE NEWS. Anything I might add here would only be repetition.

Now let s consider the construction. To get started, after the plans have been scaled, up, lay out the sides of the fuselage. Build one over the other, using a piece of wax paper in between. In this way, they will be identical. It is just a simple matter to add the cross pieces, beginning at one end and working to the other. Then add the sheet fill-in where shown. While the fuselage is drying, cut out the formers, and the upper and lower outlines. The top outline is cut in one piece, from a sheet of l/16" by 2" balsa. Cement the formers in place and then follow with the outlines. Next, drill a 1/4" hole in the sheet fill-in by the rear of the fuselage.

Before cementing the bottom formers and outline in place, bend the retractable landing gear from 1/16" wire. Bind it in place with thread, as shown; the gear is designed to retract slowly, utilizing the forward motion of the ship to bring it up in the well. The rubber band used should be about 1/16" square for best results.

Add the side stringers and wing hooks and then sand the completed framework smooth. The wheel is made by cementing two pieces of l/16" sheet cross-grained, with a small- faced bushing in the center. Fasten the wheel on and the fuselage is ready for covering.

The stabilizer comes next. This part is very simple, as one look at the plan will reveal. Cut the rudders from l/16" sheet and cover with tissue. Cover the stabilizer; then cement the two rudders in place.

The wing is the next item we have to consider. The only thing that may cause difficulty is the sheeting along the leading edge, so take your time on this part of the construction.

Make sure to put cement on each rib; pin it properly to prevent buckles. Sand the tips and trailing edges so the covering will lay smoothly en the wing is finished.

At first glance the wing fairing may look a bit hard to construct, but actually it is very simple. Take your covered wing and in position on the fuselage. Next, e to the leading and trailing edges; then cement the uprights from the rib to the outline. To separate the fairing and wing from the fuselage, just cut the outline between the double form-era. Cover the fairing with the same material as used on the body.

The prop is actually the most vital part of your model, so if you want good results, carve it neatly, and balance it careful. For power, 16 strands of 1/4" x 30" T-56 Brown Contest rubber 48" long, will take you for a lo chase. Make sure you lubricate it carefully with a good grade of lube, such as jasco. I used a fuse-type dethermalizer, with the stabilizer popping up to a 45-degree angle. This is the lightest means possible, requiring only a few hooks