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Adding Spring Reverb to the 5e3 Deluxe
Adding Spring Reverb to the 5e3 Deluxe
Why does no one offers a spring reverb add-on for the Deluxe? Many Deluxe owners wish they could add a good spring reverb. Similar vintage amps with reverb, like a Princeton Reverb, costs 100's more and they simply sound different. Until now, the only reasonable-cost option for reverb in a 5e3 is to use pedals. Unfortunately, pedals are early in the signal chain and they're not true spring reverbs, so they compromise both reverb and tone quality.
Why does no one offers a spring reverb add-on for the Deluxe? Many Deluxe owners wish they could add a good spring reverb. Similar vintage amps with reverb, like a Princeton Reverb, costs 100's more and they simply sound different. Until now, the only reasonable-cost option for reverb in a 5e3 is to use pedals. Unfortunately, pedals are early in the signal chain and they're not true spring reverbs, so they compromise both reverb and tone quality.
The 5e3Verb adds the reverb signal to the phase inverter input - which is as late as practically possible (and where most amps do it). Uniquely, the signal levels at that point in the 5e3 are very high, so simple FX loops and external effects units are not an option - they don't work at these levels. A custom designed interface is needed to preserve the dry (original) signal and all the great tone of the original amp. The 5e3Verb does that and more. It also provides a 3-5 watt power amp to drive a classic 8-10 ohm spring pan. It provides the power needed to drive a spring pan hard to get those deep vintage reverb tones. You can use your favorite spring pan for just the tone you're after. (See tank options for the ReverbFX3.)
The 5e3Verb adds the reverb signal to the phase inverter input - which is as late as practically possible (and where most amps do it). Uniquely, the signal levels at that point in the 5e3 are very high, so simple FX loops and external effects units are not an option - they don't work at these levels. A custom designed interface is needed to preserve the dry (original) signal and all the great tone of the original amp. The 5e3Verb does that and more. It also provides a 3-5 watt power amp to drive a classic 8-10 ohm spring pan. It provides the power needed to drive a spring pan hard to get those deep vintage reverb tones. You can use your favorite spring pan for just the tone you're after. (See tank options for the ReverbFX3.)
The 5e3Verb also has a low-noise FET recovery stage to minimize hiss and hum. Mixing is done by adding the reverb signal to the original dry signal. This is important --- the dry signal level is always preserved to ensure that the original amp gain and overdrive character are not impacted by the 5e3Verb. There is no change to the original tone and play feel of the amp. All the 5e3Verb does is ADD reverb to that tone.
The 5e3Verb also has a low-noise FET recovery stage to minimize hiss and hum. Mixing is done by adding the reverb signal to the original dry signal. This is important --- the dry signal level is always preserved to ensure that the original amp gain and overdrive character are not impacted by the 5e3Verb. There is no change to the original tone and play feel of the amp. All the 5e3Verb does is ADD reverb to that tone.
So, in summary, the 5e3Verb provides these features:
So, in summary, the 5e3Verb provides these features:
a custom designed interface to the high signal levels in the 5e3 amplifier
a custom designed interface to the high signal levels in the 5e3 amplifier
a true power amp to drive a classic low-impedance spring pan
a true power amp to drive a classic low-impedance spring pan
a low-noise recovery amp to minimize hiss and hum
a low-noise recovery amp to minimize hiss and hum
a mixing stage that always preserves the level and tone quality of the original signal
a mixing stage that always preserves the level and tone quality of the original signal
If you're still with me, you're probably wondering about the cost of the 5e3Verb and how much effort is involved in adding it to an amp. While the final cost is impacted by part availability and supplier options, it's safe to say it's under $100 - and possibly much less. That's less than the cost of a good pedal for a built-in true spring reverb. As to installation effort, it's likely to be a few hours of work, but it's not complicated, no hole drilling is required, and therefore it's completely reversible, should you ever wish to do that for some reason. Complete instructions with pictures are posted below.
If you're still with me, you're probably wondering about the cost of the 5e3Verb and how much effort is involved in adding it to an amp. While the final cost is impacted by part availability and supplier options, it's safe to say it's under $100 - and possibly much less. That's less than the cost of a good pedal for a built-in true spring reverb. As to installation effort, it's likely to be a few hours of work, but it's not complicated, no hole drilling is required, and therefore it's completely reversible, should you ever wish to do that for some reason. Complete instructions with pictures are posted below.
Installation
Installation
Installation starts by identifying a few key points in the chassis and running wires to the 5e3Verb board. If you're not experienced and comfortable working with high voltages, get a tech to help or ask them to do this for you. Solder wires to the unmounted board as described below. Leave enough slack to work comfortably. Wire lengths are not critical, so make it easy on yourself. Once the board is wired and tested, then its attached to the chassis with four sticky posts. Connections to the board are identified on the layout figure below. Note that the board connectors have pin 1 marked as a square pad.
Installation starts by identifying a few key points in the chassis and running wires to the 5e3Verb board. If you're not experienced and comfortable working with high voltages, get a tech to help or ask them to do this for you. Solder wires to the unmounted board as described below. Leave enough slack to work comfortably. Wire lengths are not critical, so make it easy on yourself. Once the board is wired and tested, then its attached to the chassis with four sticky posts. Connections to the board are identified on the layout figure below. Note that the board connectors have pin 1 marked as a square pad.
Mount the 24v power supply to the chassis as shown in the chassis image below. It can be screw mounted, but rather than drill holes it's simpler to use 2-sided tape to hold it in place. Orient it so that the 24v DC lines are close to the board and solder them to J3 pins 1 (24v) and 2 (Gnd). Connect the 120v AC lines in parallel with the power transformer primary. Extend these wires with some insulated splices and route them through a grommet into the chassis.
Mount the 24v power supply to the chassis as shown in the chassis image below. It can be screw mounted, but rather than drill holes it's simpler to use 2-sided tape to hold it in place. Orient it so that the 24v DC lines are close to the board and solder them to J3 pins 1 (24v) and 2 (Gnd). Connect the 120v AC lines in parallel with the power transformer primary. Extend these wires with some insulated splices and route them through a grommet into the chassis.
The board requires B+ power and ground from the screen supply. In a standard 5e3 that's best tapped at the 16uf/450v filter cap connected between the 5K and 22K resistors. Add wires to both ends of this cap and route them through a grommet to the outside of the chassis and solder them to J4 pins 1 (B+) and 2 (Gnd).
The board requires B+ power and ground from the screen supply. In a standard 5e3 that's best tapped at the 16uf/450v filter cap connected between the 5K and 22K resistors. Add wires to both ends of this cap and route them through a grommet to the outside of the chassis and solder them to J4 pins 1 (B+) and 2 (Gnd).
Remove the standby switch and replace it with a 250KA pot reverb-level control. Use a 2-conductor (plus shield) shielded cable to connect the pot to the board. Route the cable through a grommet. The pot input and wiper use the two inner shielded wires, and the shield is used for the pot ground connection. Looking at the rear of the pot with the lugs oriented upward, the left lug is ground and wired to J5 pin 3 using the shield. The center lug (wiper) is wired to J5 pin 2. The right lug (pot input) is wired to J5 pin 1.
Remove the standby switch and replace it with a 250KA pot reverb-level control. Use a 2-conductor (plus shield) shielded cable to connect the pot to the board. Route the cable through a grommet. The pot input and wiper use the two inner shielded wires, and the shield is used for the pot ground connection. Looking at the rear of the pot with the lugs oriented upward, the left lug is ground and wired to J5 pin 3 using the shield. The center lug (wiper) is wired to J5 pin 2. The right lug (pot input) is wired to J5 pin 1.
The remaining wires are the signal input and output lines. Use shielded cable(s) for these connections. The example shows two single conductor cables. (An alternative is to use a single 2-conductor cable.) Route both cables through a grommet and solder the connections for both signal and shield at the board. The board input connection is J1 pin 1, and J1 pin 2 is the ground connection for the cable shield. The board output connection is J7 pin 1. Use J7 pin 2 for the cable shield.
The remaining wires are the signal input and output lines. Use shielded cable(s) for these connections. The example shows two single conductor cables. (An alternative is to use a single 2-conductor cable.) Route both cables through a grommet and solder the connections for both signal and shield at the board. The board input connection is J1 pin 1, and J1 pin 2 is the ground connection for the cable shield. The board output connection is J7 pin 1. Use J7 pin 2 for the cable shield.
Once these two signal connections are made to the board, their other ends are connected inside the chassis as shown in the figure below. These are extracted sections from a Ceriatone 5e3 layout, which is typical for 5e3 builds. The left side shows the preamp circuits as normally built. The right side shows a modification to the the connections from pin 1 of the 12ax7. Basically, the 0.022uf coupling cap is disconnected from the 100K load resistor. The resistor connection is wired to the board input cable and the cap connection is wired to the board output cable. The shield connections are not needed, but they are useful for adding mechanical support for the cables.
Once these two signal connections are made to the board, their other ends are connected inside the chassis as shown in the figure below. These are extracted sections from a Ceriatone 5e3 layout, which is typical for 5e3 builds. The left side shows the preamp circuits as normally built. The right side shows a modification to the the connections from pin 1 of the 12ax7. Basically, the 0.022uf coupling cap is disconnected from the 100K load resistor. The resistor connection is wired to the board input cable and the cap connection is wired to the board output cable. The shield connections are not needed, but they are useful for adding mechanical support for the cables.
To make these connections properly, an additional eyelet is needed, but most boards don't have spares. So, a solution is shown in the image below. A 2 terminal strip is attached (soldered in this case) to the original eyelet. The resistor and cap are separated and tied to the two new strip connections. The original eyelet is electrically unused, but it provides a mechanical support for the two cable shields.
To make these connections properly, an additional eyelet is needed, but most boards don't have spares. So, a solution is shown in the image below. A 2 terminal strip is attached (soldered in this case) to the original eyelet. The resistor and cap are separated and tied to the two new strip connections. The original eyelet is electrically unused, but it provides a mechanical support for the two cable shields.
Once all the connections are made, check everything and isolate the board from the chassis before testing. Do not apply the sticky posts to the chassis until after everything is tested and working. A heavy cardboard or plastic sheet makes a good barrier to keep the board from touching the chassis during testing.
Once all the connections are made, check everything and isolate the board from the chassis before testing. Do not apply the sticky posts to the chassis until after everything is tested and working. A heavy cardboard or plastic sheet makes a good barrier to keep the board from touching the chassis during testing.
Plug in a reverb pan using a dual RCA cable. Note the board jacks are color coded to match a MOD pan. Power up the amp briefly and check for B+ and 24v supply voltages.
Plug in a reverb pan using a dual RCA cable. Note the board jacks are color coded to match a MOD pan. Power up the amp briefly and check for B+ and 24v supply voltages.
After warm up, turn down the reverb level and play the amp to verify that it is exactly as it was before. Then turn up the reverb level and make sure it provides clean deep reverb over the full control range. Max reverb level may be excessive, but it should be clean and free of any artifacts.
After warm up, turn down the reverb level and play the amp to verify that it is exactly as it was before. Then turn up the reverb level and make sure it provides clean deep reverb over the full control range. Max reverb level may be excessive, but it should be clean and free of any artifacts.
After fully testing the amp, power down and attach the board using the 4 sticky posts. Make sure the chassis is clean to ensure firm and durable mounting. Clip the posts to the board and remove the backing tape. Position the board carefully to ensure all four posts will sit on the chassis and press the board down into position. Positioning the board so the RCA jacks lie mid-way between the tubes makes the jacks easily accessible once the chassis is back in the cabinet. A small screwdriver is helpful to press down the sticky pads (under the board) without damaging or stressing the board. A tested and mounted board is shown below.
After fully testing the amp, power down and attach the board using the 4 sticky posts. Make sure the chassis is clean to ensure firm and durable mounting. Clip the posts to the board and remove the backing tape. Position the board carefully to ensure all four posts will sit on the chassis and press the board down into position. Positioning the board so the RCA jacks lie mid-way between the tubes makes the jacks easily accessible once the chassis is back in the cabinet. A small screwdriver is helpful to press down the sticky pads (under the board) without damaging or stressing the board. A tested and mounted board is shown below.
Mount the tank in the cabinet. A short 3-spring MOD tank is shown in the following image. Position the tank carefully so the speaker doesn't interfere with access to the 4 corner screws.
Mount the tank in the cabinet. A short 3-spring MOD tank is shown in the following image. Position the tank carefully so the speaker doesn't interfere with access to the 4 corner screws.
Mount the chassis in the cab and enjoy the great tones! The picture below shows a 5e3Verb in a "Roadhouse 15" clone Deluxe. Thanks to George Hersberger for use of his amp for this illustration. Note the reverb knob next to the fuse, where the standby switch used to be.
Mount the chassis in the cab and enjoy the great tones! The picture below shows a 5e3Verb in a "Roadhouse 15" clone Deluxe. Thanks to George Hersberger for use of his amp for this illustration. Note the reverb knob next to the fuse, where the standby switch used to be.
Here are two clips using the 5e3Verb with a "Roadhouse 15" clone Deluxe shown above. Again, thanks to George Hersberger for use of his amp. The first segment is played on an American Telecaster (varied pu's) and recorded by a Tascam DR-05 handheld recorder - nothing fancy about it. The amp is cranked to mild OD levels. The clip is edited from about 20 mins of playing around. The early part has some playing with reverb turned down to give a sense of the tone without reverb. Other portions have varying amounts of reverb.
Here are two clips using the 5e3Verb with a "Roadhouse 15" clone Deluxe shown above. Again, thanks to George Hersberger for use of his amp. The first segment is played on an American Telecaster (varied pu's) and recorded by a Tascam DR-05 handheld recorder - nothing fancy about it. The amp is cranked to mild OD levels. The clip is edited from about 20 mins of playing around. The early part has some playing with reverb turned down to give a sense of the tone without reverb. Other portions have varying amounts of reverb.
Here is a second clip made with the same amp and guitar - but recorded with a higher quality microphone. Again, the segments are edited out of a longer session. The amp level is high, but there is less OD and cleaner tone in this clip. Most of the clip has the reverb control set between 50% and 70%.
Here is a second clip made with the same amp and guitar - but recorded with a higher quality microphone. Again, the segments are edited out of a longer session. The amp level is high, but there is less OD and cleaner tone in this clip. Most of the clip has the reverb control set between 50% and 70%.
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