Bruised, but not scarred
When I was leaving for the Roopkund trek, somebody mentioned the word battle-gear after looking at our backpack, tent, ice-axe, ropes etc; battle-gear, a word which led me to wonder whether I would return with battle scars. After all, this was my first real trek and I had no idea if my physique had in it to take the long rigorous grind of the next 9 days. As it turned out, though I did not pass the test with flying colours, I at least did not flunk it.
For the uninitiated, I had gone last week on a 9 day long trip to Roopkund, a glacial lake in the Himalayas. For the last few months, I had been trying my best to garner the quorum of 4 for this trek. The number 4 was just a whim, probably related to the fact that 4 is just too common a number; 4 is the number of pallbearers and so on. To cut a long story short, on the day before the departure, only 2 of us were left and it was a foregone conclusion that the trek would be cancelled again. However, our disappointment (Rohit and mine) led us to throw caution to the winds and start the journey towards Roopkund without the quorum of 4 or even the reduced quorum of 3.
We hired a 6 men tent from Climbers and Explorers Club (JLN stadium) and got our tickets booked on Ranikhet Express to Kathgodam. And, as always, the train chose to get delayed by 4 hours on that particular day. A bit of enquiry revealed that the train rarely, if ever, gets delayed and so we realised that lady luck was probably not with us. We left the train at Haldwani, instead of Kathgodam, and were soon barraged by enquiries from taxi drivers. The similarity of a swarm of flies converging on honey immediately springs into mind. After a heated round of negotiations and lots of deliberation, we took the front seats of a Tata Sumo for Rs 300. The taxi would drop us at Kausani, which is famed to offer a 180' view of snow-capped peaks. We reached kausani in the afternoon and took the driver's offer to take us to Garur, a place between kausani and Gwaldam. Finally, we reached gwaldam around 5 in the evening. Gwaldam is Trishul territory, to put it matter-of-factly. Once you reach Gwaldam, the most significant feature that will keep on following you is the Trishul range in the north. We made a couple of enquiries about local guide to Roopkund, checked in at GMVN, booked a guide-cum-porter-cum-cook and retired for the night. The next morning we woke up at around 5:00 am, something which was soon to develop into a habit. We had instructed Naveen, our guide, to reach the hotel around 5:30 so that we could leave before 6. However, when it was 5:35 and still no sign of Naveen, we came out of our room and decide to look around. Just before sunrise, Gwaldam, surrounded by lush green hills, looked very beautiful. However, at some distance, I could see 2 barren mountains. The two barren mountains looked suspiciously like snow-coverd, a thought which I banished from my mind because they were just too close. As the light began to improve, it (alongwith the sun) dawned on us that the barren mountains were, in fact, Trishul and Nandaghunti and they were snow covered. Well, that is how close the Trishul range is from Gwaldam that the first feeling you have is of disbelief.
After we had almost given up on locating Naveen, we saw him coming up a slope. We soon proceeded towards Debal on foot. Debal is 34 kms from Gwaldam by a road; sorry, more like a dirt track and takes more than 3 hours by Jeep. Fortunately, there is a trek that is only 9 kms long and we decided to take that. We completed the trek in a little over two hours to reach Debal. After a prolonged Bargaining-game, which we lost, we booked ourselves on a Jeep from Debal to Lohajung Pass, the actual base-camp for Roopkund. We bought our supplies, which included Maggi and stuff to make Khichdi from Debal and Lohajung and proceeded to Wan at approximately 2 in the afternoon. Lohajung to Wan is an easy trek for most parts, save at the end when one needs to walk up a gradual slope. There are two different routed from Lohajung to Wan; one is via Kuling and the other via Maldhar. Both the villages are very beautiful and the fields are covered by Ramdana, a red-colored maize like crop that resembles like a red carpet. One can also drive upto Kuling and save 5 kms of trekking but we decided to walk instead in order to savour the beauty of the place. The Trishul range played hide and seek throughout the day. We reached Wan at approximately 5 in the evening and started to wait for Naveen; something which again turned into a habit. Naveen, later declared that he is a full-fledged guide and hence is not quite used to carrying luggage. As a result, he was slow and would continue to remain so. We pitched out tent near the GMVN bungalow at Wan, which was occupied by a team of Civil Services traineed from LBNSS, Mussoorie. While pitching out tent, we could hear yelling and shouting from the nearby tents. We later came on to know that these guys were from Ramlal Anand College, Delhi.
Rohit chanced to meet one of his IITD senior, who had qualified for IPS and was doing his training at Mussoorie. And, well, don't these guys trek in royal style. There luggage was being carried by mules, they were not going to camp and the food would not be the bland Maggi and khichdi that ordinary mortals like us would have to contend with but stuff like Parathas and all. In fact, we later realised that we were the worst-prepared in terms of food as even the Ramlal guys carried stuff like Daliya and soups etc. After having our dinner, we spend some time gazing at the numerous stars, a sight conspicous by its absence in Delhi. In fact, I gave a small tutorial to Rohit on some of the stars that I knew of. The next morning was going to be the first uphill climb and so we retired early for the night.
The second day trek was a walk on a trail through the dense forest that was steadily climbing. The climb becomes very steep at a place called Gharoli Patal and required frequent breaks. We had tried, in vain, to get some Chana-Gud at Debal and Lohajung and had taken some Mishri as a substitute. Though the taste of Mishri is nothing great, it provided instant energy while trekking and we gobbled some of it during the trek. Another requirement in these treks after a reasonable altitude has been reached is drinking lots of water. The simple reason is the huge amount of sweating becuase of the layers of clothes one has to wear. The wind forces one to wear a lot of clothes but the sun and the walk leads to a lot of sweating. However, below snow line, one can always find streams that are clear enough to drink from. After a few hours of walking we reached Bedni Bugyal, one of the highlights of the trek. A bugyal literally translated means a high-altitude meadow and that is what Bedni Bugyal is; a large high altitude meadow. The view of a Bugyal is awe-inspiring; it is a vast stretch of green grass arising from dense forest and and vanishing into high mountains. The slopes of the Bugyal give the impression of a green carpet but the USP of these bugyals probably is the expansive view they provide. These are perched atop a slope and hence offer an uninterrupted view on all sides. From Bedni bugyal, one can have a very close view of the Trishul and Nandaghunti range. We could also get a majestic view of the Chaukhaba range, Neelkanth, Hathi Parbat and some other ranges. The weather in the mountains is very fickle, but there is one seeming regularity. The weather is clear in the morning, clouds up around 10 and starts to clear after 4 p.m in the afternoon.
As a result, when we arrived at Bedni, Rohit was disappointed as we could not even see the Trishul range. However, being a firm believer of the Mountain Karma Theory, I just wandrered around the area. For the newbies, the Mountain Karma Theory states that in a mountain trip you do not carry a mountain load of expectations. Rather, you just perform your Karma of reaching the right spot and satisfy yourself with whatever visual treat, the mountain Gods offer. As the time to sunset came near, like clockwork, the clouds started to disappear and the peaks started to emerge from their shroud like cover. We climbed up a hillock to get a better view of the majestic beauty and were rewarded suitably for our efforts. The red glow of the dying sun dripping on these snow-capped peaks is a view that can only be experienced and not described. After our eyes had been satiated and our limbs had become cold because of the sharply falling temperature, we descended down to our campsite. In order to get a glimpse of the peaks at sunrise, we retired early again after a meal of Khichdi. The next morning we saw another interplay of light and colours with the peaks and proceeded towards Bagua-Basa, from where the climb to Roopkund starts.
At Bedni, we had met 2 groups who were coming back after an unsuccessful attempt to reach Roopkund. One of them told us that they did not have the necessary gear (snowshoes, ice-axes, ropes etc) to reach Roopkund whereas, the other could not reach Roopkund inspite of having some gear because the trek had completely disappeared under the snow. What everybody was convinced of, was the fact, that we had chosen a very bad year to trek to Roopkund as such a weather was unheard of in these months. The trail from Bedni to Baguabasa is gradual other than at 1 section of 2 kms where is it is a very steep climb. So, we walked almost casually for 7 kms to reach Pathar Nachoni from where there is a steep uphill climb to Kalu Vinayak. The trail from Kalu Vinayak to Bagua Basa is again gradual.
Even though the climb upto Kalu Vinayak is ardous, the reward you get once the climb is over is well worth the effort. A 180' view of the snow-capped peaks greets you as you complete the climb. This year the snow view was close to 270' as even the hills were snow covered and unless you look back towards Pathar Nachoni, the only colour you can see is white. The fairyland view immediately shores up the spirits and we all got click-happy, trying to capture the beauty with our cameras. Another stroll of 2 kms on a lightly snow-covered trail leads one to Bagubasa.
The snow view all around us was captivating but demanding. As a result of the snow, the streams had frozen and there was only one place from where we could collect water. Moreover, even that stream would freeze after 6 p.m and thaw only after 9 a.m. As a result, water was at a premium at Baguabasa. By the time, we reached Baguabasa we had become quite cosy with the IAS party, who had a crazy itinerary. They were suppose to reach Roopkund from Bedni and come back to Bedni. Even though they were not carrying any luggage, the plan was frought with difficulties; more so, as they were late starters. However, a few of the spirited ones tried to reach Roopkund but turned back after going a couple of kms from Baguabasa. They proclaimed that nobody can reach Roopkund as there is no trail left at all. The snow has totally obliterated the trail and what is visible is just a snow covered mountain face. The rest of the IAS party did not even move beyond Bagua Basa, firm in the belief that they cannot reach roopkund anyway. I had a hard time restrining myself from giving them the As far as You can Go lecture that trekking is not only about the destination but the journey. One may or may not be able to reach the destination but making the effort to reach it may be reward enough. This is because the point at which you turn back is a place you have never seen before; a place from where you have to turn back because it is so far in the wilderness; this wilderness you explore is the essence of trekking. It is not some hill-station that you are trying to reach; rather you want to explore natural beauty that is unspoilt and the whole journey is the exploration.
The repeated failures of many teams led us to start formulating alternate plans. The original plan was to climb upto roopkund and cross over via Juana Gali Pass to the other side of the range towards Homkund. After some discussion with Naveen, we decided to stick to the plan. At Baguabasa, there was a groups of Police Officers from Bengal who had plans to go beyond Homkund to a place called Ronti Saddle, at 19, 500 feet. We planned to start together as our plans were almost same. The college boys group arrived at Baguabasa after some time and after surveying the surroundings they decided to call it quits. We were a bit bemused at their decision as it was their second attempt to reach Roopkund. They had failed last year because of bad weather and health. The reason for their quitting was very simple. It was awfully cold at Baguabasa with temperature slated to go down to -5C during night and the only shepherd huts were taken by us and the Police party. We offered them to stay with us in the hut we had occupied and, after some deliberation, they accepted our offer. So, we had 12 people sleeping huddled in an approximately 8 by 8 hut.
The next morning, our plan was very simple. We would try to reach Roopkund by 9 and Juana Gali before 10 so that we could start our descent before the weather turns bad. As we were in a tearing hurry, we even skipped our breakfast planning to cook it after crossing over to the other side. So, we started at around 6:50 without any food and water for Roopkund. The trek from Baguabasa to Roopkund is again very gradual upto China Naag, from where it becomes very steep. In a normal year, the trek is very well marked and one may not even need a guide. We left Naveen behind and easily reached China Naag. After going a few hundred metres beyond China Naag, the snow increased and the trail started to vanish. Upto this point, we could see the path the IAS guys had followed but now we were on our own. However, a solitary rock, here and there helped us to identify the trail and we stuck on for another half km or so. At this point, the trail had become steep and slippery with the snow cover as deep as 3 feet. The climb had also increased our altitude to the point at which looking down would give one the creeps. A slip would lead one to slide down 50 metres or so to the rocks and the college boys finally gave up. They declared that they were turning back and after exchanging handshakes, we parted ways; the boys down to Baguabasa and we were on to Roopkund.
We proceeded for another couple of kilometres and reached a point from where nothing was visible other than the white sheet of snow. There was absolutely no way to identify the trail and we had gained at least 300-400 metres from the snowline. Till now, we had no other thought but to simply go up and up. However, now we decided to wait for our guide before proceeding any further. This wait allowed my idle brain to start thinking; thinking about how we were going to come down; down that steep slope on the treacherous snow.
However, I used the Naive Escape Plan to shun the bad thoughts from my mind. Since, I was the naive one here, with both Rohit and Naveen having done mountaineering courses, I simply led myself to believe that they would have a reasonable plan to come down and I don't need to think about such stuff. Naveen reached at our resting point in due course and declared that the police officers had turned back. Soon, the slope became so steep that Rohit, with help from Naveen had to cut steps on the snow face with his ice-axe. Very soon, our progress became painfully slow, with us taking one step at a time. There is a problem with being extra-cautious as well. If you stay on one step for a long time, it will start melting and you will lose your step to go hurtling down. So, a trade-off between caution and speed needs to be establised if one has to climb up a mountain slope. However, people who are aware of the Easy Climb and Tough Descent theory would realise that the real advenure begins when one has to come down a slope. This does not mean that climbing up was a cake-walk; in fact when we were 100 metres below the summit, we realised that with our speed there was no way we could reach Juana Gali in time to cross over to the other side. So, we changed our plan and decided to come back from Juana Gali itself.
Naveen then proceeded to dig out a hole in the snow till we reached a rock and placed our baggage behind those rocks. He proclaimed that in such a deep hole, the bag would be safe for at least a few hours and we can easily get back from Juana Gali by then. So, with our shoulders unburdened, we stepped up the pace and reached the summit at approximately 10 a.m in the morning. The description of Roopkund is left to the pics which will be posted in due course of time. Juana Gali is one of the sides of Roopkund and is a steep 200-300m climb. The only catch (or missed catch rather) is that there is a small section on the Gali from where a slip does not lead to a snowslide but a straight fall of 200 metres right in the frozen Kund. Naveen then promptly dug up a small hole on the front side of the Kund and showed us some skeletons. There was a small discussion on whether we should climb Juana Gali but my steadfast refusal to go any further won the day and we decided to come back from Roopkund itself.
And well, we started the descent and for that purpose, we looked down and then a shiver ran down the spine. I asked my naive question, "How do we get down?" and did not quite find the answer to my liking. Naveen then had to guide me down the 100 metres holding my hand and soon we came to the spot where we had left our baggage. Now, I was all on my own as there was no way that Naveen could guide me down with both of us buried under our backpacks. I forgot to mention that Naveen was also carrying our kerosene can in his left hand now. So, from now on, it was a desperate fight to come down the slope one step at a time. I describe the procedure used so that others who might get a temporary stroke of climbing insanity similar to mine can get down after the stroke has gone. The state is as follows: You have stuck your stick in the snow and your legs are in footholds that you have created. Now, the steps. Step 1: You take out your stick and dig it in 1.5 feet below. Step 2: You start hitting the toe of your right foot 1.5 feet below its current location to create another foothold. Step 3: Create a similar foothold for your left feet. Step 4: Repeat the steps till the slope is gentle enough for you to get down without creating steps. Here again, the speed advantage theory comes to the fore. The speed advantage theory states that while coming down/climbing up a slope, it may be useful to build a reasonable speed for the following two reasons. Firstly, you do not waste a lot of effort cutting large steps and secondly and more importantly, even if the steps are not well-cut, by the time they melt, you have moved on to the next step. The second is the reason for the significant advantage the locals possess vis-a-vis outsiders like us. So, after a long tortuous journey that had its fair share of alarms we came down to Baguabasa. The step cutting business and the lack of any water and food for the whole day had drained the last ounce of energy from our bodies and we ditched the plan to retreat back to Bedni.
Anything else I write now is only going to be an anit-climax and so I just summarize the rest of the events. After the successful climb, the police party probably got really impressed. They even started cooking for us and since they had a much more elaborate kitchen, we started getting a lot more variety in our food. To list a few, we got Aloo ka Parantha, Suji ka Halwa, Cornflakes, Pakoras etc the next 2 days. The next day we climbed down 25 km to Kanol, followed by another 12 km down to Sithel on the following day. From Sithel, we took a jeep to Ghat and from there on to Karanprayag. Finally, we boarded a bus to Haridwar and from there on to Delhi.
As regarding the battle scars, I did not get any. I got a sunburn and some sprains but nothing that will not go away in a couple of days. What I got in return is a new perspective on things; things that matter; things that you miss when you are away from civilization. A week away from all the comforts of city life and the only thing I really missed was good food; not TV or stock market or home appliances but plain and simple food. Food for thought!!!!!!!
A day-by-day itinerary follows for people interested in taking the trek at some point of time:
27th Friday: Leave Delhi by Kathgodam Express
28th Saturday: Reach Gwaldam from Haldwani via Almora-Kausani-Garur
29th Sunday : Trek 10 kms to Debal, drive 25 kms to Lohajung, trek 12 kms to Wan (All treks gradual)
30th Monday: Trek 10-12 km to Bedni Bugyal (Steep up from Gharoli Patal)
1st Tuesday: Trek 10-12 km to Bagua Basa (Steep up from Pathar Nachoni to Kalu Vinayak)
2nd Wednesday : Trek to Roopkund and back (7+7) The risky day
3rd Thursday: Trek 25 kms down to Kanol (Steep down to Pathar Nachoni, climb up a hill (short-cut there is no trail), gradual walk for 20 kms followed by steep down through a jungle)
4th Friday: Trek 12 kms down to Sithel , Drive 60 kms to Karnaprayag via Ghat-Nandprayag
5th Saturday: Reach Delhi via Haridwar.
While writing the itinerary, I remembered the fabulous trek from Pathar Nachoni to Kanol. It is a typical Himalayan trail, narrow and not used by locals. It offers great views of Bedni Bugyal, Ali Bugyal and the snow covered peaks. This trek follows a route along a ridge facing Bedni Bugyal and hence offers the best views of Bedni. Also, I would suggest Gwaldam to anybody who wants a close up view of a snow covered peak but does not want to trek.
A list of suggestions follow for people making the trek:
1) If the weather has been bad, get a guide; a very good guide. Ask for recommendations from people (You can walk into a FRH or a GMVN TRH and ask for advice from the manager/caretaker.)
2) Carry ice-axes, ropes etc if you have them.
3) Carry a walking stick or make one from the forest.
4) Always plan how you intend to come down a slope.
5) You may not get all the stuff you want at Debal or Lohajung. At least we could not find Gur Chana.
6) Carry some high energy food with you on the trail.
7) After Pathar nachoni getting water is a problem; carry enough water with you.
8) Don't leave without breakfast.
9) If possible, get a trekking boots as well as sports shoes. Both have their days and advantages.
10) Even if you are tired, don't lose concentration. There were two events that could have led to a tragic ending. An american lady slipped and could have gone down a cliff if an alert guy nearby had not pulled her back. A porter took a step that was not there; there was a gaping hole and had to be pulled by his guide. Both the events happened at the so-called fairly safe places and were caused more by lack of concentration than anything else.
P.S.- At last I have been able to reduce the size of my travelogues; maybe because now I can identify better the important stuff from the rest.
Since I have been back, I have been eating like crazy. EATING IS MY FAVOURITE HOBBY NOW. Home page for travelogues