Life in Breizh: The Shift in Attire, the Push for War and the Removal of Cultural Identity 

30 May 2024

By Arwen Grieve

France has many regions that have their own language, culture and identity. This is separate from the general consensus of French unity, which is largely publicised in French media and politics. The Basque and Catalan regions are amongst the most recognised for having a separate language and culture – these regions border Spain. The lesser known would be that of the Grand Est region. However, the middle ground would likely be Brittany, considering its geographical positioning being closer to Britain and thus an easy holiday destination.

Brittany has its own culture and language, one of which is steadily decreasing due to France’s laws and ideology of a connected and unified France. This is to be achieved through language and consensus in identity. However, there has been consistent pushes in Brittany for a revival of the culture, and it has been marginally successful.

However, this article is about how Brittany got to the point where riots and protests were needed for its identity to remerge in Frances’s consciousness, and how it lost.

Before the late 20th century, traditional Breton attire was consistently worn on important events, such as a celebration. Weddings, religious ceremonies, fairs and even birthdays warranted the fancy attire to be adorned. This attire varied across the region, as villages in close proximity could have widely different details in their clothing. Yet what linked all these outfits together was the consistent fanciful coif worn by the women, and the hats worn by the men, however even these varied with 700 distinct coifs.


(Above) Picture taken in 2000s, from the Pont-l'Abbé region wearing bigoudène coifs. 

Yet in the turn of the 20th century the war irreversibly damaged the tradition of wearing such clothing. Despite this, the women continued to dress throughout the First and Second World Wars, with a particular phenomenon of a certain coif named the bigoudène. During the Second World War the coif got taller, gaining an average of 1cm a year until in 1950, where the height reached 40 cementers. In comparison, the men lost their want to wear their traditional clothing. The increased contact with other French soldiers from different regions likely influenced the decline of Breton men adorning costumes. Before this many would have sewed and decorated their jackets and hats themselves. This activity was plausibly seen as feminine by others and thus discouraged. The war, as well as numerous publications depicting Breton men as barbaric, pushed the men to shorten their hair to seem more civilised. This was a drastic change from the long history of wearing their hair longer, as seen in the 19th century when it was worn down to, and often past, the shoulders. 


(Above) Painting of a Breton man, Rosporden region, in church by Jules Breton in 1872. 

However, the war also ignited a turn in Breton patriotism. Breton men were killed and wounded at a rate twice the national average, creating a sense of fear that the Breizhiz identity will be eradicated. Ultimately the war created a paradoxical shift in Brittany; there was a loss of culture but also a shift towards patriotism. Interestingly, women retained their cultural dress until the mid-20th century. The change occurred due to the immergence of fast fashion, with clothing becoming cheaper and easier to wash. Alongside this was the changing work patterns, with less time to devote towards making their own intricate clothing. 

Tourism as well turned the tide in the adorning of attire. Large bouts of tourists were directed towards Brittany for the exotism of native clothing, as very little traditional dress remained elsewhere so it became a spectacle for visitors. Tourism in Brittany became an integral part of France’s economy, with large amounts of money being gained in numerous ways. However, with tourist’s fascination with the clothing this soon became disruptive. The interference in ceremonies became a normality. The fervour of the tourists pushed Bretons away from wanting to wear the attire due to the unwanted attraction it gained. Whilst tourism did build up Brittany’s flagging economy, it also eroded the very culture it came to seek.


(Above) Postcard of Breton couple from the Quimper region, Early 20th Century. 

Cultural identity in Brittany has deteriorated due to many factors, yet the main perpetrator, for centuries, has been the French government. The language had been banned in 1790. Breton was banned from the French school system from 1880 to the mid-20th century, with records of children being punished for speaking it. Language laws changed in 1951, with the newly released Deixonne Law. This law allowed minimal presence of regional languages in public education, although this wasn’t implemented until the 1960s and wasn’t supported either. The learning of Breton was still impossible as the teachers would not be paid for the classes, and thus very few voluntarily chose to teach it. The language only gained support in the 1980s with mass riots in Paris, but only since 1999 has an office been set up to support the language. However, even in the 21st century the language continues to face restrictions, as seen in 2021 with a law asserting that immersive teaching cannot be directly funded, meaning the decline of immersive Breton schools is imminent. To add insult onto the injury, the law also detailed that the Breton alphabet cannot be used.

Brittany has experienced near 209 years of Breton being banned, restricted, and disregarded due to the key aim of French unity. Alongside this, the decline and designation of the ceremonial attire to be worn only for tourism has only further deepened the existing outlook that clothes of the past are to be seen in a light of mockery and amusement. All that has occurred throughout the history of Brittany has unfortunately led to the disconnectedness of Breton identity.


Further Reading

Enacting Brittany: Tourism and Culture in Provincial France, 1871-1939 by Patrick Young, 1967

A whole series of articles dedicated to the different costumes across Brittany: https://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2021/05/a-closer-view-of-breton-costumes-part-3.html