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In K-pop worlds, ‘concepts’, as they are known, represent the essence of a song or video. A concept can help a group stand out from a crowded field. Frequently, concepts toy with gender identity and expression, playing with feminine or masculine qualities in different ways. As K-pop has a strong visual orientation, gender-related concepts are expressed through fashion, accessories, hair styles, facial expressions and body gestures, across diverse media. Some concepts accentuate heteronormative imagery, sometimes in campy theatricality. Others bend the rules across sex and gender.
Soft masculinity, also known as kkonminam in Korean (which literally means ‘flower handsome boy’), is a popular concept employed by some boy groups to portray an alternative form of masculine identity. The concept has a hybrid origin. It stems from the global idea of the metrosexual in the 1990s, which refers to the type of man who is interested in fashion, cosmetics, grooming and physical appearance, as well as drawing from Korean traditional ideas of purity and the concept of bishōnen (‘beautiful youth’) in Japanese popular culture.
Soft masculinity is witnessed in fashion elements associated with femininity, such as make-up, earrings, soft-coloured clothing, and dyed hair. Music videos often set an upbeat love song within a utopian world of homosocial relations. NCT127’s ‘Touch’ (2018) and ASTRO’s ‘Baby’ (2017) are key examples. The music video of ‘Touch’ opens with the group’s nine members playing innocently with each other in pink shirts and white trousers. In the music video for ‘Baby,’ each of the seven members, paired with a colour of a rainbow, enacts cuteness through facial and body gestures.
The concept cheongsun has connotations of innocence, purity and loyalty. Sometimes seen as a parallel to soft masculinity, cheongsun idealises all that is girlish – cute aesthetics, subtle sexy moves, and dewy-eyed longing. This concept has a long history that goes back to the very first girl groups such as S.E.S. (1997-2002), but it was 2010s groups like Apink and Gfriend that revolutionised it. One iconic song is Apink’s ‘LUV’ (2014), which gave the group seventeen music show wins. In the music video, synchronised choreography showcasing a suite of feminine outfits is juxtaposed with short scenes of romantic longing. The song reminiscess the innocence of a past relationship: ‘The time when you and I weren’t afraid / When we hold each other's hands, yeah / As long as you’re next to me / I didn’t need anything’.
The cheongsun concept is often taken up by young artists. Apink’s average age when they debuted was 16, with the youngest member, Hayoung, being 14 years old. However, it is common for such groups to later explore more mature concepts. More recently, groups such as NewJeans and Illit are renewing the cheongsun concept through playful images of female camaraderie, transcending the male viewership traditionally associated with this concept.
Girlcrush is a concept that highlights women’s empowerment. Whilst groups such as 2NE1, F(X), and Mamamoo have developed this concept, it became a staple in K-pop following the domestic and international success of Blackpink, who debuted in 2016. Visually, girlcrush is expressed through charismatic postures, ferocious fashion, fanciful sets, and quirky props. Influenced by the bombastic substyles of EDM, songs in this vein feature hooks with hard-hitting beats. Instead of offering stories of falling in love with a man and seeking to get his attention, lyrics tend to focus on self-love and self-worth, with little care about what other people may think. As a famous line from Blackpink’s ‘DDU-DU DDU-DU’ (2018) goes: ‘I give it to them straight, I don’t care what people think’. Female fans tend to find girlcrush more appealing than its cuter counterpart, as it puts emphasis on female idols being role models for female fans, rather than objects of physical attraction.
Sexy concepts in K-pop showcase hypermasculinity within boy groups and hyperfemininity in girl groups. Idol groups linked to this concept use vocals, dance, body performance and storytelling to evoke sexual meanings. Sex appeal is central to this concept: boy groups show off the members’ chiselled bodies by wearing sleeveless shirts or appearing shirtless whilst girl groups strut and dance in hot pants and short skirts.
Theatrical undressing is key to the sexy concept. The boy band 2pm is famous for making a show of ripping off their shirt in live concerts, an act that earned the nickname jimseungdol (literally, beast idol). Most of their members have appeared on the cover of Men’s Health magazine in South Korea. Meanwhile, the girl group AOA’s became a sensation with the choreography of ‘Miniskirt’, which mimics the unzipping of a skirt. This was deemed too sexy by broadcast authorities and had to be changed in live performances, yet it remains one of the most popular ‘sexy’ dances in the K-pop community, especially among cover dance groups. The ‘sexy’ concept has decreased in popularity recently, due to an influx of other concepts. However, it is still recognised as an important part of K-pop.